iveco 35s12 03

[dpsservices]

changing the whole front axle in the morning looks pretty straight forward 6 nuts and bolts either side on chassis also going to change think the are the bump stops 3 bolts and one nut both sides. undo both flow return on power steering rack will also drop off calipers. is this about right anything else to watch out for, ob power sttering hoses and calipers will be done before attacking chassis bolts???? cheers in advance david

ps how do you bleed the steering rack?? if needed

 

[Burnerman]

Can't advise on the axle particularly David but don't worry about the bleeding of the steering rack - it will do that itself. All you do is to keep the reservoir full and turn the wheels from lock to lock with the engine running once the job is done.
Just for interest - why are you changing the axle?
John

 

[Mursal]

Any bolts you cant see the threads (nut) they are fastening into don't force them off with an air wrench. Loosen and "play" with them if their seized, apply lube and re-tighten to work the lube onto the rusty threads.

Otherwise they might be hard to get back on.

 

[dpsservices]

well thought rack was u/s also wishbone rubbers are ALL worn so worked out alot cheaper to buy second hand rack i hope as the axle i got is off a x reg 2.8td. the only difference i can see is on the 2.8 axle there is a antiroll bar which isnt on my one. anyway found out the problem was the chassis mounts are total u/s and where they sit is rotted. got the axle off today got a welder coming round in morning bit off a nightmare tbh. cheers burnerman your knowledge is always helpfull

 

[dpsservices]

Any bolts you cant see the threads (nut) they are fastening into don't force them off with an air wrench. Loosen and "play" with them if their seized, apply lube and re-tighten to work the lube onto the rusty threads.

Otherwise they might be hard to get back on.

air wrench would be a luxury lol axle stands and a spanner racket it is and yeah they were tight no skin on knuckles