Jaguar s type parking brake

E

EddieM

Just a heads up. This morning (very cold) the Jag was displaying a parking brake fault and wouldn't release the brakes. I managed to fix this by removing and replacing the parking brake fuse (F52) in this case, which reset the module. There is also a reset procedure which is easy to Google but wasn't required in this instance. Yes, I need a new car battery as it's caused by a low battery voltage output messing with the cars electronics.
 
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We have an Evoque that’s just over 5 years old now. Low batteries on these cars just like Jags (Same family) causes all sorts of electrical faults to throw up. Last week the battery went flat on ours after leaving the tailgate open and the hazards on for just 20 minutes so with winter coming up, I fitted a new one and if yours needs replacing, I’d say get it done sooner rather than later.
 
Yes I know it'll get one soon. Which battery would you recommend bearing in mind it's a '54 plate so a 10 year guarantee it's a bit pointless.
 
I used to get my batts at a local factor, but Battery Megastore in Tewksbury beats their price online, including delivery. There may be other suppliers.

Silver-top Varta if you want a really good one, blue-top if you want a good one. If you have a diesel, or a lot of electronics, it's worth getting a bit more power. Your car may have had a Jag-badged silver Varta when it was new, 10 years is quite a common life. If you email Varta they will tell you the current battery codes to fit your model (measure the space in your car to check)
 
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Buy the largest capacity (Amp Hours) battery that will fit the battery tray in the car.
Also check if the car has a second battery - apparently it's quite common in JLR vehicles and it is usually well hidden. That will be a small capacity one (motorcycle sized) that is intended to 'back-up' or keep the security systems working, that could include the parking brake.
 
Yes I know it'll get one soon. Which battery would you recommend bearing in mind it's a '54 plate so a 10 year guarantee it's a bit pointless.
I’m in the trade but I needed one on the quick so I bought it from Halfords. I bought a 5 year guarantee Yuasa one. Should have been £147 but I got it for £98 using my Halfords trade card. Could have got it a bit cheaper probably but not straight away. If not in a rush, check out deals online or in eurocaroarts.com
 
Gone for the yuasa one from handy Halfords. Will be fitted tomorrow, reason I went for that is it has to be fitted for me. The car resides permanently away from home And I have no access to any tools (slightly ironic as I work for a car company!)
 
If the engine is running and the alternator charging, why is a duff battery to blame ? I could understand if you were releasing the handbrake with the engine off, but you wouldn't, surely? Just wondering....
 
If the engine is running and the alternator charging, why is a duff battery to blame ? I could understand if you were releasing the handbrake with the engine off, but you wouldn't, surely? Just wondering....

I wouldn't know for certain but I think the initial low battery before starting the engine confuses the sensors. But as I say absolutely no expert in this stuff by any chalk
 
It's all those bloody body control modules that are to blame......low battery voltage at any time makes them freak out and go in the huff. Even a slightly failing battery that gives a low cranking voltage can set them off.
I've recently replaced a battery on a Q5 that spun the engine over well enough - but the 'infotainment' centre lost it's memory, as did the electric windows every time you started up from cold. I ask you.....:eek:
New battery, all back to normal.
John :)
 
On the Q5 did you have to get the new battery coded to the car? I've been reading about this and it seems the car needs to know it has a new battery to get the charging rate correct. It's all getting too much for me....
 
Many people will disagree with me here but I have found that a battery replacement doesn't always needed to be coded to the car - in time it will learn its parameters itself.
Basically the ECU 'learns' how the car is driven, how many starts, how many heavy duty appliances are often used and so on. That's why the ECU is connected directly to the battery +ve terminal.
Notice that if you have a stop/start enabled car, you'll have the letters EFB on the battery. This stands for Enhanced Flooded Battery, would you believe. For mere mortals, a AGM battery will do - this stands for Absorbent Glass Mat and that's been around for ages.
So - what are the big battery killers? Xenon headlamps, electric power steering and worse of all, the dreaded Stop/Start function. That's the first thing I always turn off on mine - pollution or no. Minimise your accessory draw until the engine is running before turning anything on, and the battery will have half a chance.
John :)
 
No it definitely learns about your driving. The auto gear changes are now different (even more lumpy than before) the car feels quite different... and not for the better :(. Oh and it does have a backup battery as the backup alarm went off when it was being changed.
 
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