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joining 2 pieces of laminated worktop together

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doing a utility and my other half as now changed the design

orginally i was just going to have 2 pieces of worktop on the end of run base units - with full height base depth units 2m high in between
so this was asimple 600mm - just over to hang over - and that could just mean I cut one piece twice - probably a 1.8 - its comes with 4 sides edging

And have cover panels to go down the sides - so reasonably straight forward - i thought

SO now its going to be a full 3.2 M - with the same 2 base units at each end - But this time will be 5 base units - 600 + 600 +800 +600 +600
Standing on top of the worktop will be full height 1000mm 38mm deep + doors - units standing on the worktop for the middle 3 units 600+800+600

so i'm now joining the worktop

EKBACKEN - worktop 1 off 246x2.8 cm and 1 off 186x2.8 cm
white lively marble effect/laminat

i was planning to to use 1 lenght over the
600+600 - and join across the base unit join
and the other
800+600+600

i have fitted worktops in the past - but with my brother using a kitchen Jig and dog connectors , router etc
BUT - he nolonger has the Jig

I only need to join the 2 pieces together

I have a dewalt 625 router (I can get the correct router bit - BUT i think i may have one any way )
various bits in a kit

A bit from screwfix - 60+cm - kitchen

Down Shear Trim - top and bottom bearings can be removed - may not be correct bit

anyway - any suggestions on best way to do this without the Jig etc

I have a freud blade just sharpened for the circular saw and will use a guide to cut the two ends off to join

then I have some D4 PU glue - i used on chipboard flooring - this week, left over and could use that to join
OR ???? maybe some sort of colour fix instant glue
used this brand before
as laminate is white


Then make some dog joins - using fostner Bit and then a straight cutter to got to the edge and just do with some sort of JIG - or clamp some 2x1 onto the board
i have a cheap MFT table i purchased a few weeks ago on offer - so with saw horses could clamp the worktop on that and then clamp down and just router across the two pieces

as i'm typing this thinking that maybe the way to go

BUT as i do - I dont want to over think

not much w/top on show

wall units about 40cm from wall
so 20cm deep along 3 base units will be on show
 
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From what I can understand...You are butt jointing two worktops together?

You don't need a jig to do this, but you will need a straight edge for example a piece of mdf say 12mm big enough to get the router base on and two clamps "Bessy Clamps" longer than the width of the worktop, lets say 700mm x 600mm.

You will need a 30mm guide bush for your router and you will need a 12.7mm worktop cutter, trend do one for about £13.

You need to get the cutting edge of the mdf square to the worktop. If you are routering the right side of the worktop with post formed edge facing you, you need to router with the laminate face upwards, whereas if you are cutting the left handside you need to cut with laminate face facing down and the post form edge away from you.

Make sure you have the correct bolts for the thickness of worktop you have.

A sharp circular saw blade probably won't cut a square edge, and it will probably chip the laminate. Use Colorfil for the joint, don't expect an invisible joint in a white worktop.
 
thanks so much for that
From what I can understand...You are butt jointing two worktops together?
YES

i think the router came with guides - But i will look at that , - if not then i will have to get one

but you will need a straight edge
I have a few of those in metal - a trend , a silverline - been using all week to cut 22mm chipboard flooring
A Trend Varijig , 2 parts about 1.5m each long

"Bessy Clamps"
had various bessy clamps on my list to purchase - so maybe a good excuse -
maybe NOT at that price


the router bit i got a while ago - never used - is in fact a 12.7 x 63
i also have a trend kit of bits
and it has a a couple 12.7 straight cutters - various lenghts
and a 12.7mm guided

its a straight square edge - not a post form edge, which i used before hence the Jig

A sharp circular saw blade probably won't cut a square edge,
would i do a rough cut and then finish off by using the router to cut to join
before it didnt matter as i would have some cover panels covering the joins - all but 2cm

maybe i'm tired from laying a load of flooring this week - but i did not follow
You need to get the cutting edge of the mdf square to the worktop. If you are routering the right side of the worktop with post formed edge facing you, you need to router with the laminate face upwards, whereas if you are cutting the left handside you need to cut with laminate face facing down and the post form edge away from you.

Make sure you have the correct bolts for the thickness of worktop you have.
2.8cm
 
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You can rough cut with the circular saw before finishing with the router. A bit of Maths for you to help, the distance from the outer edge of the guide bush to the cutting edge of 12.7mm cutter is....8.5mm. So if you set your mdf board back from the cut edge 10mm you can easily do one pass with router cutter as you'll only be cutting 1.5mm off, I always do it twice to make sure its a clean edge.

Router into the postformed/square edge first, don't router from the back forward as you will blow the front edge. Ignore my previous explanation.

The worktop bolts are fine, as you say use a forstner bit for the bolts then I would use a tenon saw and chisel to form the groove.

Tip, when you've routered the edges to be joined, carefully sand them by hand with 80 grit sandpaper to remove burrs, stay away from the laminate edge though.
 
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brilliant thanks for that info ,
i have a dowel jig - is it worth doweling at all ... i have not yet used the dowel jig for anything accurate - so will need to test i guess

i have a few of those type of clamp - and various about 8 various lenghts - normal type (yellow) NOT mini and XP heavy duty (silver) - Irwin quick release clamps, which have a throat depth of 81mm - along with wickes and lidl versions

is there an advantage to that bessey clamp ?
throught depth 80mm - opening to 160mm

then I would use a tenon saw and chisel to form the groove.
not the router then - ok

thanks again
 
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brilliant thanks for that info ,
i have a dowel jig - is it worth doweling at all ... i have not yet used the dowel jig for anything accurate - so will need to test i guess

i have a few of those type of clamp - and various about 8 various lenghts - normal type (yellow) NOT mini and XP heavy duty (silver) - Irwin quick release clamps, which have a throat depth of 81mm - along with wickes and lidl versions

is there an advantage to that bessey clamp ?
throught depth 80mm - opening to 160mm


not the router then - ok

thanks again
I wouldn't dowel there is no need.

Quick release clamps aren't strong enough imo, they can release! any clamp that you can tighten with a thread will hold better. I was just showing the cheaper fit for purpose bessy clamps.

Yes use router to form grooves for dog bolts, I'm to used to using a jig with the dog bolt template.
 

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