Jump start HELP!!!

[bennymc]

Last night I tried to jump start a 1998 Ford Fiesta from my 1999 Ford Puma. I assume the problem is the battery as there is NO response from the ignition, not even a cough. So, time to jump - Easy, right? I encountered problems and aborted for fear of causing untold damage, hopefully you guys can help me find out what went wrong (if anything)

So here’s what I did

- Opened both bonnets
- Connected the Red cable to the positive on the dead battery
- Connected the other end to the Positive on the Good Battery
- Connected the Black cable to the Negative on the Good Battery
- Clipped the other end to a metal part of the engine block.
- Started the Puma and left it for 5/6 minutes
- Tried the Fiesta

And here’s what happened

- As I connected the last step (Black cable to the Engine Block) there was a bright spark (more or a clap) as it touched.
- The central locking activated
- After waiting for 5 minutes with the Puma running I tried the ignition on the Fiesta. The engine cranked once and the was another clap from the engine block, this time it was brighter and louder
- All the dials on the dash stuck at full, and the petrol registered at half full (This is with the keys out)
- A spark and a click occurred roughly every 30 seconds on the fiestas Engine Block

With this I decided to switch off the Puma and abort, taking all the cables off leaving the one clipped to the Engine last as it looked a bit angry. The dials (the last time I checked) are still stuck on full and there is again no response from turning the Key.

Any ideas on what happened? I can’t find anything like it elsewhere on the web.

Thanks!

 

[dhutch]

Sounds like you did what I would have expected to do.

The reason for the last connection to be away from the battery is a faulty battery, or one thats recently been on charge can give off or contain hydrogen gas which is explosive and can be ignited by the spark.

Another thing work noting is that some cars use colours that may seen at odds to expectation, such as brown for negative and black for positive, so you have to look quite carefully to avoid connecting it backwards.

If the connections are bad, the additional load of trying to crank the car can break them, or if the leads are thin and the battery well gone, just bring the voltage down enough to do odd things, like make the clocks display oddly.

As for advice, not sure really. I presume the leads looked fine, no sign off damage, melting, hot to touch?

Diesal or petrol?

Do the headlights work?

Sometimes the alternator doesnt charhe at tickover and increasing the revs to maybe 2000rpm can help.

Anyone else?



Daniel

 

[Burnerman]

The theory is fine here (so long as you are certain about the polarity) but it does sound if your jump leads are below par, and rather the clips actually gripping anything they are making a poor contact and arcing across.
I connect battery to battery rather than the engine block (assuming that the battery is accessible - Transits beware) and squeeze the clips hard onto the battery terminals.
If the jump lead clips are getting hot, they ain't making contact.
More modern vehicles have heavy duty fuses directly next to the battery positive - I'm not sure about yours though.
John

 

[bennymc]

Sounds like you did what I would have expected to do.

The reason for the last connection to be away from the battery is a faulty battery, or one thats recently been on charge can give off or contain hydrogen gas which is explosive and can be ignited by the spark.

Another thing work noting is that some cars use colours that may seen at odds to expectation, such as brown for negative and black for positive, so you have to look quite carefully to avoid connecting it backwards.

If the connections are bad, the additional load of trying to crank the car can break them, or if the leads are thin and the battery well gone, just bring the voltage down enough to do odd things, like make the clocks display oddly.

As for advice, not sure really. I presume the leads looked fine, no sign off damage, melting, hot to touch?

Diesal or petrol?

Do the headlights work?

Sometimes the alternator doesnt charhe at tickover and increasing the revs to maybe 2000rpm can help.

Anyone else?



Daniel

Thanks for the quick reply Daniel

- The leads are new (Well, they’ve been used twice on my mothers car)
- They are both Petrol
- The headlights do not work
- I did actually increase the revs for a minute or 2 on my car as I’d read that this helps

One website seems to think the dials are stuck because they were half way through a sweep test and lost power so they stayed that way – makes sense I suppose.

I’ve been advised to triple check that the + and – are correct rather than going by the colour, and that I should try connecting the last clip to the BATTERY not the engine block. I’m a bit nervous about doing this though as I’ve read horror stories about hydrogen exploding if there is a spark – which there certainly was last night.

How serious is this threat do you think, or am I just being paranoid?

 

[mfarrow]

Connect the neg lead to where you like - it should all be well connected. Top of the gearbox is a good place as this is all aluminium. I'd avoid the exhaust components as the securing bolts get hot and rusty so don't make for a good electrical connection, ditto and painted bodywork. Also avoid anywhere near the alternator or starter motor for obvious reasons.

If the lights aren't coming on then your battery will take awhile to charge, so the time allowed may not have been enough.

Remember when disconnecting, put some load on (light/blower/HRW) or turn off both ignitions to avoid damaging anything electronic.

 

[Belle427]

if the battery is flat as a pancake then you will struggle to start it, the jump leads cant pass enough current especially through the clips.
how big are the cables roughly in diameter?

 

[dhutch]

My experience is even with a really awfull battery you can get a start, especially with a petrol, but if the headlights wont light thats a bit more odd. As said, if the clips are getting hot they are not making a good connection, although mildly warm leads is acceptable and if anything, proof they are connected. Obviously if they are getting hot, take them off. Equally, a spark on connect to a certain extent indicates succes, if im not sure its making a connection, usually wobble a connector, if it sparks lightly, its working and everything is making a connection, no spark and another connection isnt working, loads of sparks and you cant really get it to settle, too much dirt there!

Once made it should atleast click and try to turn over. Or at very least click once till it breaks one of the jump lead connections, wobble, try again. Once started, it should make its own electric to keep going.



Daniel