Having never laid engineered wood is this product OK
Probably looking at one of the 7mm range to avoid too much step at the doorway.
Probably looking at one of the 7mm range to avoid too much step at the doorway.
Kahrs engineered flooring
- Thread starter IJWS15
- Start date
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7mm is wood-veneer (a 0.6 to 2mm solid top layer)
In what room do you plan to install it? We call this bedroom quality
In what room do you plan to install it? We call this bedroom quality
Dining room - one that is not used very often.
Have not seen the product yet, intend to go and look at the weekend.
Would prefer a branded product to B&Qs "own".
Have not seen the product yet, intend to go and look at the weekend.
Would prefer a branded product to B&Qs "own".
Your being polite
no offence but the linear range is suitable for rabbit hutches and making pallets, sorry, Go for a 15mm at least it lasts longer and you just know you have the quality, I would not ask any flooring fitter to fit 7mm engineered board and I have a job getting them to fit a 7mm laminate.
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Thanks for tyhe advice, in support of your views none of the Kahrsstockista around here carry the thin stuff and sday the same thing.
Have some samples of the 15mm from Kahrs and others and SWMBO is now re-thinking colours. Looks like 15mm and budget around £1.5k to include levelling and underlay. Will have to start a thread in Projects about this and keep a photo record. . .
Have some samples of the 15mm from Kahrs and others and SWMBO is now re-thinking colours. Looks like 15mm and budget around £1.5k to include levelling and underlay. Will have to start a thread in Projects about this and keep a photo record. . .
Getting closer to a decision and narrowed the choice.
Looks like SWMBO has decided that we don't have to match the Ercol furniture (Impossible) and we will probably be going for a contract - either Oak Heritage Valios or Oak Nouveau White in 15mm. Have seen some of the 7mm and see why the opinions are as they are . . . . .
One is laquered and one is nature oiled. How much work does a nature oiled floor really take - over and above a laquered?
The room is almost square 5020mm by 4200mm with a rectangel off one corner 1600mm by 1400mm. The only window is on the short wall and following convention means the boards run along the 5020mm wall.
Both of these have boards 2420 long . . . . 2 boards plus about 180mm to make up the length. Should I just start the next line with the piece left after I cut of fthe 180mm or do the joints need a bigger stagger than this? To mimimise wastage do you run two sets of boards - the offcut from row one being used to start row 3 and the offcut from row 2 being used to start row 4?
There is a hearth to fit, I intend to set this so the flooring will fit under the edge - will this be OK? Cannot stand the use of quadrant mouldings on floors.
Room is dry lined so I have plenty of expansion room under the plasterboard, skirtings are all off.
Intend to install floating - Any suggestions for underlay - target is a very level floor (see other post about levelling) and it is screed on the ground floor in a detached house - dining room.
Looks like SWMBO has decided that we don't have to match the Ercol furniture (Impossible) and we will probably be going for a contract - either Oak Heritage Valios or Oak Nouveau White in 15mm. Have seen some of the 7mm and see why the opinions are as they are . . . . .
One is laquered and one is nature oiled. How much work does a nature oiled floor really take - over and above a laquered?
The room is almost square 5020mm by 4200mm with a rectangel off one corner 1600mm by 1400mm. The only window is on the short wall and following convention means the boards run along the 5020mm wall.
Both of these have boards 2420 long . . . . 2 boards plus about 180mm to make up the length. Should I just start the next line with the piece left after I cut of fthe 180mm or do the joints need a bigger stagger than this? To mimimise wastage do you run two sets of boards - the offcut from row one being used to start row 3 and the offcut from row 2 being used to start row 4?
There is a hearth to fit, I intend to set this so the flooring will fit under the edge - will this be OK? Cannot stand the use of quadrant mouldings on floors.
Room is dry lined so I have plenty of expansion room under the plasterboard, skirtings are all off.
Intend to install floating - Any suggestions for underlay - target is a very level floor (see other post about levelling) and it is screed on the ground floor in a detached house - dining room.
Your being polite
Go for a 15mm at least it lasts longer and you just know you have the quality, I would not ask any flooring fitter to fit 7mm engineered board and I have a job getting them to fit a 7mm laminate.
Im after some advice also, can some one explain to me what the real difference is in wear between a 15mm engineered and a 7mm with a possible 2mm wear layer? Both laqured finish!
How often do you plan on sanding the two?
For the thread starter that is...
Having seen the Linnea I would not describe it as a 2mm wear layer - it is much thinner and looks just like laminate!
Probbably won't be sanding it at all but would prefer not to have to lift it and replace parts to fix minor damage.
Probbably won't be sanding it at all but would prefer not to have to lift it and replace parts to fix minor damage.
IJWS15: use the off cut of the first row to start the second row. In order to prevent a pattern in joints in the whole floor you'll have to make sure you have random 'starter boards' to stagger the joints better.
This can be easily done by cutting of a bit extra of the off cut from a row, as long as you keep you 'starter board' at least 30cm.
Use a combi-underlayment, that contains both a sound-insulation and dpm.
Matty: 7mm total thickness cannot have a solid top layer of 2mm. The strength of the solid top would distort the backing (cup). 7mm has normally a top layer of 0.6mm. Around the 10mm thickness you're looking at a 2mm top layer.
I know I've written 0.6 to 2mm above, because it happens to be sold which we do not really approve of.
With a proper sanding you remove 1 to 1.5mm of wood, meaning even with a the 2mm top layer it is rather risky to do so. The floor will loose its stability. A light sanding is possible, but still.
This can be easily done by cutting of a bit extra of the off cut from a row, as long as you keep you 'starter board' at least 30cm.
Use a combi-underlayment, that contains both a sound-insulation and dpm.
Matty: 7mm total thickness cannot have a solid top layer of 2mm. The strength of the solid top would distort the backing (cup). 7mm has normally a top layer of 0.6mm. Around the 10mm thickness you're looking at a 2mm top layer.
I know I've written 0.6 to 2mm above, because it happens to be sold which we do not really approve of.
With a proper sanding you remove 1 to 1.5mm of wood, meaning even with a the 2mm top layer it is rather risky to do so. The floor will loose its stability. A light sanding is possible, but still.
Using the piece left over from the first row to strat the second will mean a large offcut at the end of each row to get the joint stagger.
If I use the offcut from the first to start the third, cut a piece off the first board in the second and use the piece from the last board in the second row to start the fourth row it may give me less waste and properly staggered joints - will try it with some bits of card and see how it works.
Any comments on the maintenance issues?
Also we have a sideboard on "Shepperd" type metal casters Will these damage the floor?
If I use the offcut from the first to start the third, cut a piece off the first board in the second and use the piece from the last board in the second row to start the fourth row it may give me less waste and properly staggered joints - will try it with some bits of card and see how it works.
Any comments on the maintenance issues?
Also we have a sideboard on "Shepperd" type metal casters Will these damage the floor?
You've got the right idea about using which off cut where, good! And sometimes you do need to cut off more and have indeed some extra saw-waste.
Maintenance: see here where you can also request our brochure.
How often do you plan to move the sideboard?
Maintenance: see here where you can also request our brochure.
How often do you plan to move the sideboard?
I don't plan to but no doubt she will.
If we go for the nature oil I guess it will be to move at least once or twice a year when the floor gets re-treated
Depends. You don't have to re-oil your floor. Regular maintenance, applying a suitable maintenance product once very 5 to 6 months suffices.
Have been short of time and floor not levelled yet, firelplace plans also changing because the one that was delivered, and three replacements, all had bowed hearths.
Look at View media item 12364 and tell me how many different flooring patterns/types/colours are shown/
We like top left, don't like bottom left, we like bottom right don't like topright.
Look at View media item 12364 and tell me how many different flooring patterns/types/colours are shown/
We like top left, don't like bottom left, we like bottom right don't like topright.
Yeap, that's nature in its full glory: every board has its own character, colour, grain structure.
We get clients into our showroom pointing to one single piece in a 3-strip engineered Oak board and requesting a whole floor in that colour. Sorry, not possible Not even in the most expensive grade in Oak - quarterly sawn prime - like said above: that's the beauty of nature, never boring.
We get clients into our showroom pointing to one single piece in a 3-strip engineered Oak board and requesting a whole floor in that colour. Sorry, not possible
Not even in the most expensive grade in Oak - quarterly sawn prime - like said above: that's the beauty of nature, never boring.DIYnot Local
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