Kill switch doesnt kill engine
- Thread starter ipbr21054
- Start date
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I havnt taken one apart recently and dont remember which way but looks to to be RHT . I use a rattle gun so no need to hold
Often LH threaded items have an arrow and the word OFF stamped on.
Like LITL I have a sacrificed socket and a windy gun but you may get away with striking the clutch with a drift.....but you do risk damage.
See if you can replace the springs in situ first!
John
Like LITL I have a sacrificed socket and a windy gun but you may get away with striking the clutch with a drift.....but you do risk damage.
See if you can replace the springs in situ first!
John
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See if you can replace the springs in situ first!
John
An easy way, is to bend the spring over, then slip a few 1p coins between the coils, until the spring is fitted in place, then simply pulled the coins out.
If you have an iron grip with snipe nose pliers you may get away with it- otherwise it's clutch off I'm afraid.
John
John
The replacement clutch arrived today.
The only different that i could see was the old clutch has metal shoes & the replacement has like asbestos shoes.
Shoes in respect of the part that flies out & grabs the drum.
Measuring end to end only less than 1mm different so im happy & now fitted.
Awaiting replacement coil & then put it back together.
Not sure if the coil has anything to do with the running of the trimmer as the spark plug has black soot on it.
This is due to its rich mixture but it was the only was i could get it to run / rev.
Will the replacement coil have any affect so i then adjust mixture again ?
The only different that i could see was the old clutch has metal shoes & the replacement has like asbestos shoes.
Shoes in respect of the part that flies out & grabs the drum.
Measuring end to end only less than 1mm different so im happy & now fitted.
Awaiting replacement coil & then put it back together.
Not sure if the coil has anything to do with the running of the trimmer as the spark plug has black soot on it.
This is due to its rich mixture but it was the only was i could get it to run / rev.
Will the replacement coil have any affect so i then adjust mixture again ?
The clutch is fine - some are metal to metal, some aren't.
The coil shouldn't have any affect on the running of the engine - when you are happy with the machine you maybe could turn the H screw in a fraction.
John
The coil shouldn't have any affect on the running of the engine - when you are happy with the machine you maybe could turn the H screw in a fraction.
John
If the engine starts ok and keeps running when its hot, the coil is fine.....or at least that side of it is!
Once reasonably reliable test is the spark should be blue in colour (ideally). If the spark is tiny, that isn't necessarily an issue......very high voltage and minimal current causes this.
John
Once reasonably reliable test is the spark should be blue in colour (ideally). If the spark is tiny, that isn't necessarily an issue......very high voltage and minimal current causes this.
John
That would be the HT side of things with regards spark but the LT would be the kill side of it.
I would prefer to have it as it should be so i am awaiting a replacement.
I can check the ohms on mine 7 the other once it arrives.
I would prefer to have it as it should be so i am awaiting a replacement.
I can check the ohms on mine 7 the other once it arrives.
The clutch is fine - some are metal to metal, some aren't.
The coil shouldn't have any affect on the running of the engine - when you are happy with the machine you maybe could turn the H screw in a fraction.
John
Talking of which...
The PTO clutch on my tractor mower gave me lots of trouble with constant slipping of the drive. Investigating, I found it appeared to be just metal on metal, so I wondered whether it was designed to work that way, driving the cutting deck. The cutting deck had two large blades to be driven. I modified it a few months ago, by glueing some sort of hard gasket material to the thin clutch plate. I didn't really expect it to work, or last long, but a new clutch was £300. In fact it worked absolutely perfectly.
A good move - you would think that some sort of friction material would always be used but on small diameter / high RPM stuff they don't seem to bother.
John
John
I wasn't actually sure whether it was supposed to rely on metal to metal contact for the clutch. The only diagram I could find for it showed it as complete module and tiny. I had pulled it apart before, trying to work out why it was slipping and found no evidence of any friction material at all, just a quite badly scored steel disk. The drive was just coming to a stop when the cutting became harder work, without me even knowing it wasn't cutting.
My ext problem to solve, is the cutter deck chocking up with cut grass. Its one of those which collects in a massive bag which hooks onto the back end, except it chokes up its duct from the deck, then gradually fills all the way back into the deck, so even without the bag, it still chokes up. I'm thinking to see if I can convert it to a side discharge, take the duct out. The duct rises up over the back axle. I dare say it might work OK if the grass were very dry, as in the US, but not in the UK's summers.
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