Kitchen Island Electrics

If they are classed as emergency switches then they should be obvious and readily accessible.
Agreed.
I would say on the other wall is pointless so may as well not bother.
Opinions obviously vary. As I wrote above, if one does wish to have emergency switches, my personal view is that they are probably best located 'a respectable distance' from the appliance that could conceivably pose an 'emergency' (but still, of course, "obvious and readily accessible" - certainly not behind the corn flakes and baked beans in a cupboard!).

Kind Regards, John
 
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At the wall end though, you're not allowed to chisel out a 40mm chase, unless your inner leaf is 120mm thick. You can only chase out 1 third for a vertical chase. Are you battening out that wall?

3 x 25mm steel conduits is the best solution still, and solves some of the issues, but probably the most expensive.

No issues with requiring a 40mm chase, as I plan to run the cabling up the corner of the room and up the boxing out which contains the existing SVP.
 
Agreed.
Opinions obviously vary. As I wrote above, if one does wish to have emergency switches, my personal view is that they are probably best located 'a respectable distance' from the appliance that could conceivably pose an 'emergency' (but still, of course, "obvious and readily accessible" - certainly not behind the corn flakes and baked beans in a cupboard!).

Kind Regards, John
Either way is fine. As long as I have left space to get the cables to the hob, oven, and sockets I can discuss isolators and number of supply cables with my electrician once they are appointed.
 
Either way is fine.
Indeed it is - as also is the third option of having no 'local' isolators or emergency switches at all. As I said, opinions vary, so it's a matter of peresonal choice - whether to have such switches/isolators and, if so, where to locate them.

Needless to say, I favour my own view that, if it is intended for possible 'emergency' use, it makes sense not to have it too close to the appliance it is switching (for reasons I mentioned).
As long as I have left space to get the cables to the hob, oven, and sockets I can discuss isolators and number of supply cables with my electrician once they are appointed.
Indeed.

Kind Regards, John
 
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I had to run a 16mm in for an American induction hob once!
:eek:

Why?

Ref Method C, 16mm² would be OK for a 59.8kW hob.

Even with Method 103# it could accommodate a 27.2kW one.

Was the hob an awfully long way from the CU?
 
I wonder how many people comply with the regulations for emergency switching after they have decided that it is for that reason that they are going to have switches.
 
:eek:

Why?

Ref Method C, 16mm² would be OK for a 59.8kW hob.

Even with Method 103# it could accommodate a 27.2kW one.

Was the hob an awfully long way from the CU?
Long way and a powerful American jobby, i can't remember all the details as it was a couple of years ago. The Original hob was going to be Gas too and the customer changed their mind (lots of times!!).
 
15kW? 155m.

20kW? 124m.

I think that was madly oversized.

I honestly can't remember the Wattage BAS, the house had eight bedrooms, an inside and outside pool, a cinema, ten bathroooms, seven reception rooms, a back up Generator, plus a panic room, a wine cellar, various Heat Pumps for air con and heating. The Induction hob was a beast we needed to feed it with 16mm may have been integrated with an oven it's been three years, it was imported from the USA. The guy had an ego bigger than anyone i've ever met and the kitchen probably was £100 grand on it's own! The House had Lutron lighting that was a few kWs alone even though it was LED and low wattage. More money than sense, it was obscene. It's currently listed for £5,000,000
 

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