Kitchen Larder Cabinets not Plumb with wall

Discussion in 'General DIY' started by Bison108, 11 Dec 2017.

  1. Bison108

    Bison108

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    Hi all,

    Apologies if I am not in the right section, please advise if not.

    I am fitting a kitchen and the first problem I have encountered is not unusual but is causing me some grief.

    I have quite a few base units some standard height some tall (Larder, integrated Fridge, freezer and cooker). My walls are not plum. Floor is level so plenty of adjustment with the feet. My problem is that at the top of the tall cabinets when level there is a gap of approximately 15mm. This is going to create a knock on effect with the wall cabinets.

    I am familiar with scribing and cutting the cabinets to fit but this would mean I would have to do it with every cabinet and there are 12 base units. That’s a lot of cutting. Then there is a problem with aligning the wall cabinets.

    I would like to ask how the experts would approach this task?

    Thank you in advance.

    Bison
     
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  3. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Fit plumb and scribe end panel which hides any problems.
     
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  4. JohnD

    JohnD

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    If you are using the adjustable cab hangers that have a sort of hook, consider fitting cabinet hanging rail along the entire wall. It is very strong and easy to level, and you can move your cabs along if you get the whim. Its length means you don't have a problem of fixing screw that want to go into a soft mortar joint or a cable, you can just screw a few inches to the side. You only need to get the rail right, and all the cabs will follow.

    If your walls are not plumb you could pack out the rail where necessary and screw through the packers. The hangers screw in and out a bit but I don't know if it's as far as 15mm.

    rail [​IMG] [​IMG]

    hangers [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: 11 Dec 2017
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  5. opps

    opps

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    Surely the gaps will only be visible on the end units? As others have suggested, can't you use end panels or do the units at either end have integrated end panels?

    The wall units can be packed out at the tops (using the rails recommended by JohnD- they cost a couple of quid from screwfix for a metre ) and you can glue packers to the lower backs of them to prevent tilting.

    Additionally, if you are tiling, you can pack the tiles out to hide any gaps that might be visible in the area below the full length cabinets where they butt up to the wall hung units.

    Photos might help.
     
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  7. JohnD

    JohnD

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  8. opps

    opps

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    *blushes*

    I intended to post a link to the rails that you are talking about rather than a DIN rail- senior moment!

    That said I will check to see if they (DINs) are interchangeable.

    Like you, I too prefer using one length, especially when working on stud walls or walls where the supplied mini rails don't allow you to get a decent fixing.

    ************edit

    This person used DINs

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-35-x-7-5mm-din-rail-1m/6461g

    as did this one

    https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/din-rails/0467416/

    BUT.. not all DIN rails are equal

    https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/dinrails.pdf
     
    Last edited: 12 Dec 2017
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  9. Bison108

    Bison108

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    Thanks all.

    All good advice so I am going to use a rail system and that should sort it.

    Much obliged all.

    Regards

    Bison
     
  10. opps

    opps

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    Good luck Bison

    Please let us know how you get on.

    Your feedback may help someone else.
     
  11. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

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