Kitchen re-design

[SamHLM]

I'm looking at hopefully re-fitting our kitchen but I'm not too sure where to start with regulations, etc. I basically want to try and do as much as I can myself with the exception of plumbing, electrics, structural, etc.

The main parts of the work are to remove a load bearing wall/add RSJ. Then move some sockets around/add new ones, change lights to downlights and then move all of the surface gas/water pipes that are mounted on the wall that's coming down.

In regards to getting the work signed off, where would I even start? since I'll be doing some work myself like taking ceilings down, plaster off walls, and re-fitting the kitchen units and then some of the work will be done by trades. Do I just state what's being done (not sure how or even who to) and then have the correct certificates, etc from electrician/plumber/builder and have the work inspected as I go?

Basically, I'm just unsure on the process and what needs to be done to get the work signed off and how you even notify of the work being done

I'd love to pay someone to do the whole lot but I just can't afford it so Im hoping to do it this way and save some money

Thanks for any help

 

[^woody^]

You only need building regulation approval for the new RSJ installation. Not the other work.

If you are rewiring sockets - full or partial circuit, then you need either a registered electrician, or you can apply to the council for approval (but the installer still needs to be competent). Other electrical work is notifiable - ie extending the circuit and adding sockets.

Gas pipe work requires a Gas Safe registered engineer.

All other work you can do yourself and requires no approval.

 

[mrrusty]

To add to what @^woody^ has said. First job is to clear the decks and sort the wall/beam. Plumbing you may be able to stop off and cut back yourself but get a plumber in if unsure, gas def needs moving by a registered gas safe person. If the beam is straightforward in an "ordinary" house, it may be worth getting a quote from a good local builder - local so they know the local building control. If you can totally trust the builder to do it right, then you only need to apply to building control for a building notice - they will just sign off after inspection- no plans needed. This is the cheapest option but if BC don't sign off the builder's work you are worse off because it will then need re-doing. Otherwise you need a structural engineer to spec the beam/padstones etc., and a building control application with plans.

Although the other work may not require approval, there may be some building control implications of taking a wall down - does it affect fire escape routes? does the open-plan room have a woodburner in which case there may well be ventilation issues, with conflicts between kitchen extract and the requirements for air vents for a stove. To cover your back, and particularly if working on a building notice you could apply for "remove wall, install beam, and associated work in kitchen redesign" That way you may well be able to wrap the whole lot in to a single inspection/sign-off. Fire escape will be an issue if stairs/escape route are through the open plan kitchen.

It is better to apply to building control yourself rather than depend on a builder to do it. It's your responsibility and you remain in control.

Once the beam is in, you can strip the rest out. First job is to reinstall electrics, gas and plumbing. You need certified people to do electrics and gas and it's advisable for plumbing unless you are competent - you are allowed to DIY plumbing.

Once all the services are in in the right place, build your new kitchen - floor first and build on top saves a lot of cutting round units. Again you may well need sparky and gas to reconnect appliances and sign off.

If you are doing ceiling works this is the first job before the kitchen itself. Depending on the height of the room, it may be preferable to drop the ceiling slightly and install a new ceiling below the existing to install downlights - easier, no issues with fire regs/penetrating kitchen ceiling, and the sparky will thank you for easier cable routing. Doesn't have to be much - 100mm is plenty, 70mm is possible. If you use lightweight plastic ceiling planks (which are a good DIY solution in a kitchen), the new frame can be very lightweight. (reinforce downlight positions with ply). Otherwise you'll need to board and skim it Alternatives to downlights are surface mount LED fittings which are as little as 10-12mm thick

 

[mrrusty]

Just as an aside, are you going full "open plan" (presuming the beam is between the kitchen and another room you are opening up). Last couple I've done I've only partially opened up, so in a 4.5m wall I've had say a 2.5m opening. This retains wall/worktop space in the kitchen area that can be very valuable but sill retains an "open" feel. It's also much simpler - smaller beam, if you leave wall nibs you don't need a party wall agreement (if there is a party wall) which you might need if you are penetrating the party wall for beam support.