Kitchen Wall Units

[silverhornet]

I am about to hang some kitchen wall units and I have a slight problem.....

The wall where the units are going to go is not straight, out by approximately 5mm at either end (taking the datum as the centre of the wall as the wall slightly convex). The wall layout is:

800mm unit, 300mm unit, 100mm gap, 600mm extractor, 100mm gap, 300mm unit, 635mm corner unit.

Having only ever fitted units once before on a straight wall I need some advice. Although there is not a continual run of units, I do plan on having the pelmit (erm, the bit of wood which runs across the top of the units) as a continual run with the space around the top of the extractor enclosed by a spare end panel.

The units are from the Magnet Metro range and can be adjusted forwards/backward, up and down.

What is the best way of ensuring that the front of the units are level?

Should I fit a slim (3-5mm) battern close to the bottom of the units and pack it out with Gripfill? Or is there any other advice as all the sites I can find talk as if walls are level - or is this normal and should be considered level?

Any help most apprecuiated

Ian

 

[Scrit]

The wall where the units are going to go is not straight, out by approximately 5mm at either end (taking the datum as the centre of the wall as the wall slightly convex).

The adjustment on the hanger should easily handle that I'd have thought, although you will need to caulk the end panels. If the gaps are really big then it may be necessary to add a false end panel at either end of the run scribed to the wall, or caulk the gap or add beading

Although there is not a continual run of units, I do plan on having the pelmit (erm, the bit of wood which runs across the top of the units) as a continual run with the space around the top of the extractor enclosed by a spare end panel.

BTW it's a cornice moulding on top of the units, pelmets are beneath the upper cabs..... ......but what you're talking about sounds a lot like what we call a "flyover" panel - a piece of matching carcassing edge-banded at the front, cut-out for the chimney, cleat screwed to top face either side then screwed down onto the tops of the cabs either side. You may need to use something like aluminium L-profile or metallic tile edging strip to tidy-up the cut-out.

What is the best way of ensuring that the front of the units are level?

Screw one to the wall and get the front vertical and the top horizontal in both axes. Don't bother about the back where it touches the wall at this point. Add the next carcass and screw the two together (#8 x 1in screws hidden beneath the hinge plates and behind shelves, etc) then re-level. Do the same for the second run then adjust in-out and check the front for alignment with a straight edge (straight piece of PAR pine will do). It doesn't need to be spot-on - as long as it looks right, but you need to check and recheck levels in two axes plus verticals repeatedly.

Should I fit a slim (3-5mm) battern close to the bottom of the units and pack it out with Gripfill? Or is there any other advice as all the sites I can find talk as if walls are level - or is this normal and should be considered level?

There's no such thing as a level wall, believe me...... If it's necessary to secure the bottom it's probably quicker and easier to secure angle plates to the wall (it will disappear when you add pelmets) and hide the gaps at the ends with caulk or if it's really bad with beading or even end panel scribed to the wall. The inner ends of the runs are generally hidden by the tiling.

Scrit

 

[silverhornet]

Thanks Scrit, that seems to make a lot of sense and I hadn't though about the aluminum strips to neaten the cutout of the flyover.

With regards to the order in which to do things would I be right in thinking:

Rewire - done
Paster walls - done
Paint walls
Fit wall units (need to get rid of some of the boxes and carcasses from the other rooms)
Level floor
Tile floor
Fit floor units
Get someone in to cut and fit the worktops
Tile back splash
Do the finishing touches

Many thanks

Ian

 

[Scrit]

Hi Ian

I go a slightly different route:

Rewire
Plaster walls
Paint walls
Run plumbing including any coring out (as far possible)
Core-out for extractor, dryer, etc (if required)
Fit base cabinets
Fit worktops
Fit backsplashes (if full height laminate/glass type)
Fit wall units
Fit cornices, pelmets, etc
Box-in pipework, etc (as required)
Tile backsplash (if tiling is being done)
Level floor
Tile floor

Personal preference but I fit the base cabs before the upper cabs as that way I can align any upper cabs to the tops of full-height (larder, oven, etc) units if there are any and getting the worktops in before putting on upper cabs is often the only way you can work in a small kitchen (think between the wars semis..... ). A well-protected worktop will also provide you with a support surface to use when installing the upper cabs - a simple screwed-together MDF "hop-up" being a good way to bring the cab to approximate height, then just lift an inch or two onto the rail/hangers

Scrit

 

[1511]

I always fit wall cabinets first so your not reaching over the base cabinets creating an awkward working position.

 

[Scrit]

I always fit wall cabinets first so your not reaching over the base cabinets creating an awkward working position.

That depends on how tall you are! Being tall that's a sure fire way to crack my noggin. It doesn't work too well when you're fitting counter-top dresser cabs, either, because they sit directly on the worktop. Personally, I've yet to come across a situation which called for upper cabs first whereas I've had quite a few which called for lower cabs first. Horses for courses, I'd say

Scrit

 

[masona]

I always put base units in first, what if the floor is out of level?

 

[Scrit]

I always put base units in first, what if the floor is out of level?

What if? They're almost always a bit out, aren't they?

Scrit

 

[silverhornet]

Ok, I 've fitted the wall units first - well, they're on the hangers - and I have found that the corner unit is out by approx 6mm on the right hand side when flush and pushed into the corner.

It is a diagonal corner unit and although there will be an open wall unit (the thing with shelves on it) on the right and a 300mm unit on the left will this be enough to secure it? I've used 12x3" screws and I am happy the brackets are secure, but with the 6mm gap the unit "swings" when pushed with a little (well, quite a lot) of encouragement. As there is no weight in the unit other than its own I'm assuming this will rectify itself but I don't want to start drilling into the side units to find the screws pulled out. This unit is going to hold some weight.

So I guess I either:

a) ensure unit is pulled to the wall, screw to side units and fill with best china as this is quite common
b) fill the back edge of the unit (would require taking unit down and some jiggery pockery
c) Tile up and fill the gap
d) screw a batten to the under side just to be safe?

Isn't kitchen fitting fun......

Currently washing up in the bathroom and the missus isn't happy.....

 

[Scrit]

(e) Your units need to be aligned then cramped together with a couple of G-cramps or QA cramps then screwed together, that way the won't "swing" and each cabinet is also helping support it's neighbour. I tend to "hide" #8 x 1in chipboard screws used for this purpose beneath hinge mounting plates, behind shelves and out of the way in corners.

If the wall is weak then I'd always suggest hanging on long rails as opposed to those mickey mouse hanging plates supplied. And if you are in any way uncertain about the holding capacity of the hangers, then add some 65mm or 80mm angle straps to the bottom of the cabinet as well. These are often needed at the ends of runs to anchor the end of the run into the wall. They are hidden by the light pelmet and/or will be covered by backsplashes, tiles, etc.

Isn't kitchen fitting fun......

Currently washing up in the bathroom and the missus isn't happy.....

That's another reason why you should install the base units first

Scrit