Kitchen wiring for hob and oven

[AndyPRK]

The 6mm had been removed of some of it's insulation in the middle, to allow each conductor to be screwed into the junction box terminals, with the still insulated tails going off to each appliance.

Probably a professional. It has the advantages of:

1) The wires are going to stay where they are when doing them up
2) allows you to get more wires into the junction.
3) Better electrical joint (particularly when used on a socket ring) as there is no actual joint on that bit of wire, just a tap off.

When I moved into my house there were 2 6mm wires in such a junction, plus the crimp end for the induction hob flex. Seemed to fit ok.
But I replaced it with one of them dual outlet flex plates as shown above, rather than having the junction laid on the floor.
Gave me more flex to lift the hob out without disconnecting, so I could carry out maintenance to the oven switch contacts

 

[robocod]

That all makes sense. I assume you could run each appliance on 4mm, given none are over 5kw. The space behind the oven is a bit of a mess, it has an in wall twin gang plug socket thats been disconnected/removed. The 6mm comes down through the wall into that empty socket patress, then to a junction box, then back out to the cooker switch, then back out to a junction box. It's not ideal!

 

[JohnW2]

You can have upto 15kw of cookers and hobs etc on a 6mm 32 amp circuit.....some say 20kw.

Yes - 15 or 20 depends on whether there is a socket as part of the cooker switch.

Indeed (approximately) - and even the same with 4 mm² if its installed by Method C.

 

[JohnW2]

That all makes sense. I assume you could run each appliance on 4mm, given none are over 5kw.

in fact, even 2.5 mm² cable ('Method C') would be OK for up to about 6.2 kW.