Knauf Wallboard - suitable?

[BertyUK]

Hello there,

I'm in the process of re-doing a shower in my en suite after a rather nasty leak. I'm replacing some stud work and plasterboard.
I originally wanted to go with Knauf Aquapanel and then tank with Bal tanking kit, but Travis Perkins didn't have any Aquapanel in when i went, and in my haste I purchased standard Knauf Wallboard.

Please tell me it'll be ok to use the standard board with my Bal tanking kit.

Also, if it is OK, could you recommend a tile adhesive and grout for use in showers on top of Bal WP1.

thanks in advance

 

[Richard C]

Aquapanel would have been better IMO but it should be fine if it's tanked; don't forget to use a quaility trade, flexible adhesive & grout

Unless the tiles are really heavy;
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/white-star

& grout;
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/microflex

 

[BertyUK]

thanks Richard

yeah, i really wanted to go with aquapanel but they didn't have it. they had hardibacker but the sizes they stocked were not suitable for what i needed so i was forced to go with the standard board.

i have a bal tanking kit already. I've never used a tanking kit before but i expect its pretty self explanatory.

one more thing...
can someone tell me what the common practice is when it comes to upstands on shower trays? I'm thinking of tanking the whole cubical walls and floor then placing the tray in (will be a tight fit) and painting more WP1 over the top edge of the upstand.

is this correct? I don't want to have to sink the upstand into the wall.
is it normal for tilers to have to mess about with the bottom row of tiles to make them vertical over the upstand?

i hope i've explained that correctly.

 

[gcol]

The upstand needs to be sunk into the wall - it's not difficult to do.

 

[Richard C]

I never use trays with upstands

 

[gcol]

Don't be afraid.

 

[BertyUK]

The upstand needs to be sunk into the wall - it's not difficult to do.

'needs' to be? shower tray i removed was a 770mm square tray with 4 upstands. 770mm is the exact gap between the two walls. it will be difficult to sink into walls.

any suggestions?

edit:

after reading some more online it seems you're right, it really needs to be flush fitted.
my alcove will be 666mm wide after i put plasterboard in. showertray with upstand is 770mm meaning i can set into wall 2mm each side. any further 'lip' protruding can be made flush with the BAL WP1 ill be putting on the walls.

my question is.. whats the best way to get the tray into the wall when its already such a tight fit? i can find no proper guide on the internet that shows how to do it.

thanks

 

[BertyUK]

After more measuring i think its best to go with a tray with no upstand.
Ill tank the entire corner including floor with bal wp1 then a 760 shower tray will just drop into place.

does this sound like a good idea?
i think it'#ll be much simpler/neater than trying to squeeze a 770mm tray into the gap.

 

[Richard C]

You could tank the floor I suppose it’s not usually necessary, what type of floor is it? If your going to use a stone resin tray, these require bedding on a weak, mortar mix. Are you the floor tiling afterwards?

 

[BertyUK]

im going to be using a Mira Flight shower tray with riser kit, which is basically the same as the one i've taken out. floor is made up of 22mm green chip board then 2inch polystyrene, then a 15mm ply.

house was built 2004, had nasty leak
theres pics of it here www.mowaxy.com/stuff/shower/

ive replaced the damaged stud work, floor and repaired the joist and now just want to put in new shower tray/door in the best way.

i thought it would be a good idea to tank the whole cubical but im open to suggestions.

thanks

 

[gcol]

Most leaks from a shower cubicle come from the tile/tray joint. The best way to eliminate these leaks is by using a tray with an upstand. To fit into a wall, just mark a line with a pencil, and chisel the wall away - it's that easy.