Knocking through external wall into lean to

[IDunno?]

Hi, Looking at options.

I have a 1930s bungalow where a single skin lean to has been added on the back of the property to the side of the kitchen as per the image below:

The externals of the lean to has been very well blended into the rest of the house so my intention is to keep it, batton and dryline the inside, brick up the door and to and knock through the old external kitchen wall to create a longer kitchen diner affair as per the below image:

Before I get someone out to provide full quotes, how little of the old adjoining kitchen wall do you think I would need to keep to maintain stability in the outer wall, as this will affect how I lay out the internals.

Thanks, Rob.

 

[noseall]

my intention is to keep it, batton and dryline the inside,

Lol. After you have paid Building Control for a B'Regs application, you'll need to a little bit more than dry line the inside. Floor, walls and roof insulation and VCL will be under scrutiny, as will the structural integrity of these elements (foundations, roof structure etc).
Electrics and plumbing (heating) will also fall under their watchful eye.

 

[IDunno?]

The lean to has been there for over 20+ years and is of reasonable quality, identical exterior brickwork to 2ft then render above that makes it difficult to tell where it starts. I was a bit light on details, the concept was to replace the roof, line and insulate the floor to raise it 5", batton and insulate the walls etc. Electrics would be covered in the house rewire and there would be no plumbing/drainage in that area.
Are you saying that its worth getting a building inspector out first BEFORE getting a builder to quote? Any help appreciated.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Post some pictures of the lean to, inside and out.

Andy

 

[IDunno?]

I will have to take some of the inside - which will be monday now.

A new layer of bricks would be added to raise the roof level and flatten it out etc.

Thanks. ID

 

[IDunno?]

Inside

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If those ceiling tiles are polystyrene, then need to be removed urgently, they are a fire risk.

 

[noseall]

and is of reasonable quality,

Not really. Its a single skin structure, with a crap roof and zero insulation. The floor, foundation and roof will all be suspect. It wants putting out of its misery.

 

[Notch7]

View attachment 294281

Inside

Whilst you might be able to insulate walks and roof, assuming founds are ok, you will have a bigger problem with the floor which if solid will need gunning up and redoing.

 

[IDunno?]

Knocking down is out of my price range. It's make do and mend. I'm trying to do the best within my means, my pockets are the size of those little pockets within the normal pockets you get in jeans.

The builder I spoke to originally suggested that as the floor was about 8 inches lower than the rest of the house, it could be sealed under a membrane that would go 2ft up the floor and the level brought up using insulation boards. Bad idea?

Id.

 

[noseall]

Knocking down is out of my price range. It's make do and mend. I'm trying to do the best within my means, my pockets are the size of those little pockets within the normal pockets you get in jeans.

The builder I spoke to originally suggested that as the floor was about 8 inches lower than the rest of the house, it could be sealed under a membrane that would go 2ft up the floor and the level brought up using insulation boards. Bad idea?

Id.

You are going to raise the floor by over 200mm with those existing height windows? Really?

Seriously, you need to think about just how much lipstick you are prepared to put on this pig. You will detest the crap height windows and roof in no time. Bad idea, trés bad.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

noseall is our resident artisan builder with big pockets and an even bigger order book, knock it all down and rebuild is all he does, it's not his money after all.

 

[cdbe]

Assuming you have the headroom, you could fit external bi-folds or wide french doors in the "sink" wall and use an off the shelf lintel, a radiator could be installed with a smart TRV - this would, I believe, be compliant with building regs and avoid any issues if you sell.

You would be best living with the step down, not insulating the floor, and focusing your efforts to damp proofing and as much wall and roof insulation as you can reasonably manage. It's unlikely, particularly with the roof, than you will achieve modern standards/compliance but it won't matter. You will need to ensure the room is well heated and ventilated to avoid condensation issues.

I know this is a bodge, but it's better than nothing while you save for a new extension.

 

[noseall]

Assuming you have the headroom, you could fit external bi-folds or wide french doors in the "sink" wall and use an off the shelf lintel, a radiator could be installed with a smart TRV - this would, I believe, be compliant with building regs

Lol. Compliant my arse.

Adding a lintel doors and radiator won't bring the floor walls and roof up to spec.

The masonry return fails (less than 665mm) too.

 

[cdbe]

Tell me what's not compliant about an external quality door opening into a "conservatory" and independently controlled heating, which is what I said......

I said nothing about removing the wall and I didn't say the room would be compliant with building regs, but it would be usable in the same way that every other silly conservatory type building in the country is and there would be no problems if the house is sold.

The OP has clearly stated that he can't afford an extension and is looking for suggestions on how to make the existing more usable.

Maybe you could use your undoubted experience to suggest something workable for insulating the roof without compromising headroom too much? Surely got to be better than sneering at poor people.