Laying engineered oak floor.

1 Apr 2009
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United Kingdom
Hello this is my first post.
I am about to lay aengineered oak boards and intend to float them. My home is Georgian and over 200 yrs old with solid joists and solid timber floors that run across the room, not towards the windows.
I am reasonably competent with tools but wanted to ask a few questions. I intend removing the skirtings.
Is there any other way of removing the bottom of the skirting boards to allow the new boards to slide under?
I will need a saw and will most probably hire one. What tyre and blade do you recommend?
Any tips on laying out?
Is there a technique to laying?
Where is the best place to glue?
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Undercutting skirtingboards is mostly more work and hassle than removing them before installation.
As for all you other questions: start here and if you have more questions let us know.
Thank you, that's so helpfull.
What about the saw? I have 22ml oak engineered board.
Medium - not too fine otherwise it'll 'burn' and not too course, this would cause 'splinters.
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Thanks for the info so far.
I live in a Georgian crescent therefore it curves. The house and rooms are therefore, wider at the back of the house getting slightly narrower but not noticably so towards the front.
The main room here where the floor is to be laid narrows slightly towards the windows, so the way the boards will run.
Is there a technique for laying out? I guess I will have to scribe the last board fitted and perhaps some of th first ones too?
Any thoughts?
Best not to start at a wall then, but find the 'flow' of the room. Install the boards so that is most eye-pleasing.

You might have to scribe the boards at both walls, but it definitely give you the best result in the end when the boards run in a direct line instead of askew in the room.

(You'll have to work with large spacers or strips of wood to install most of the room before you install the last rows.)
Two other things, which underlay for a flat with people underneath. Timbermate silentfloor gold or Duratex?
I have read that laying onto wooden boards does not require a damp proof layer. Any other suggestions?
We use Duratex (also from Timbermate) For on floor boards or other sheet materials go for this one, not the Timbermate Excel which does contain a DPM.
I've just hired a skirting board trimmer from a local hire shop only cost £20 for a day.
The guy in the shop did tell me they were being outlawed now because theres no guard for the blade and people were cutting into the feet and knees with them a lot :rolleyes:

It a simple tool just sitson the floor bit like a router and has a height and depth adjustment on the blade (just don't let the blade hit the wall) set it 1-2mm less than the skirting board and then just snap the bit of wood off.
It was far easier that removing the skirting board (that i had just painted) and the normal disaster of removing chuncks of plaster where the nails go into the wall and then making good and repairing the wall paper and redecorating.

it's also a great tool for trimming the bottom off doors in situ and all for £20 :D

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