Laying floorboards - to remove or not remove existing.

[fathertobe]

We've got floorboards in a couple of bedrooms (currently carpeted) but they're in too poor a condition to sand. They're too thin and full of cracks etc. Have been patched in places with ply or similar.

I've sourced reclaimed wood (not boards) but cut to equal thickness and T+G. It's been in the house for a couple of weeks now.

We were planning to lift existing boards and renail onto joists. HOWEVER, one guy quoting said that it would be far easier and less messy to just:
a) strongly secure the existing floor - screws, etc.
b) secret nail the new floor on top.
c) sand, etc as normal.

The knockons as I can see are:
1) lifting the entire floor means a few doors might need adjustment (minor issue)
2) where it meets the skirting we'd need a small bead or similar to cover the expansion gap - but I'm ok with that.
3) raises height in doorways but I'm 6 ft 2 and I've still got a good 2" clearance with carpet. So this doesn't serious problem.

What would people do in my position? Quotes are pretty similar for both jobs (though laying on top should be cheaper, I know - but different fitters).

Though the fitter who suggested lifting them has done OK work for us before, I've got a little more confidence in the new fitter who seems to know the job better...

Thanks!

 

[WoodYouLike]

How wide and long are the new blocks?

 

[fathertobe]

Hi Woodyoulike. Thanks for answering.

1 Room are about 3.5m square - ish. So quite small.
2 Old boards are of varying lengths. 7.5" wide. square edge.
3 New boards are all approx 3m in length, 7" wide, T&G

Thanks again.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Nailing the new boards straight onto the existing ones (after these are secured as mentioned in one of your quotes received) will only work well in the new boards will be installed perpendicular to the direction of the existing boards. Same direction means having to overboard first with 6mm ply to avoid problems when the existing boards are cupped.

As long as your new floorboards are at least 18mm thick and the joists are not further apart than 35 - 40 cm then perhaps lifting the existing (rubbish) boards would be the best solution?

 

[fathertobe]

Hi. Thanks for this. Really useful.

few thoughts:
1 Don't really want to go perpendicular as this will be a nightmare if I have to lift anything at any point for plumbing.
2 Couldn't I just replace existing boards that are cupped/damaged with suitable thickness ply? And then lay in the same direction?
3 New boards are 22mm thick so that's alright on that point.
4 The joists are around 30cm apart.

The reason for going over the top is that I think it will be less work. And that the guy suggesting it will probably do a better job... But perhaps I should just forget it and lift and replace?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Sounds like a plan (for a bedroom that is, I wouldn't do this in a larger room).
Check the levelness of the existing boards properly so you don't overlook one that needs replacing.

 

[geraldthehamster]

We've got floorboards in a couple of bedrooms (currently carpeted) but they're in too poor a condition to sand. They're too thin and full of cracks etc. Have been patched in places with ply or similar.

I've sourced reclaimed wood (not boards) but cut to equal thickness and T+G. It's been in the house for a couple of weeks now.

We were planning to lift existing boards and renail onto joists. HOWEVER, one guy quoting said that it would be far easier and less messy to just:
a) strongly secure the existing floor - screws, etc.
b) secret nail the new floor on top.
c) sand, etc as normal.

The knockons as I can see are:
1) lifting the entire floor means a few doors might need adjustment (minor issue)
2) where it meets the skirting we'd need a small bead or similar to cover the expansion gap - but I'm ok with that.
3) raises height in doorways but I'm 6 ft 2 and I've still got a good 2" clearance with carpet. So this doesn't serious problem.

What would people do in my position? Quotes are pretty similar for both jobs (though laying on top should be cheaper, I know - but different fitters).

Though the fitter who suggested lifting them has done OK work for us before, I've got a little more confidence in the new fitter who seems to know the job better...

Thanks!

If I were doing it myself, I'd be tempted to fit over the top, to save work.

If you're paying someone to do it, and the quotes are similar, why not have the old pulled out and the new fitted in its place, then you have no issues with doors and skirting.

The quotes are probably similar because it doesn't take long to rip up floorboards

Cheers
Richard

 

[fathertobe]

Sorry to drag this up again but these posts never provide any reference for anyone if the solution/resolution is not posted.

And for that, I apologise for this lateness.

We went over the top in the end. Saved a lot of time and have never regretted it.