laying parquet flooring

[5125andrew]

I'd be grateful for some advice on laying parquet flooring in a herringbone pattern please from someone who has done this before. I've bought and cleaned 20m2 of oak T&G blocks, which are 2.75" by 10". The floor is concrete and dead level. I've bought my adhesive, Lecol 5500. After having spent three weekends cleaning blocks I want to make sure get the laying exactly right!

The floor was previously covered in vinyl tiles and these have left gridlines which I can use to ensure that the tiles are laid. My questions are about how to ensure the first row of blocks is fitted to together as closely as possible. I've read that the first row is important as any discrepancy with become more pronounced. I'm practising putting blocks together - when I add another row, the previous blocks come apart slightly.

I'd also like to know how much adhesive is required. Should this be spread like tile adhesive or a solid layer. Should I put it on the floor or on the underside of the blocks? Does it matter if pressure is put on blocks before they are set?

Sorry for the length of the email but I want to get it right!
_______________________
moderator

5125andrew, please note 17 & 20
your post has been split, the post you replied to was made in February

 

[WoodYouLike]

I've read that the first row is important as any discrepancy with become more pronounced. I'm practising putting blocks together - when I add another row, the previous blocks come apart slightly.

They will, when practising 'dry' It takes advanced DIY-skills to do this properly.

Set out a line in the middle of the floor. If you are not sure of yourself screw a straight batten next to this line for stability.
Use a proper notched trowel for the adhesive and a rubber hammer (white). Pore some adhesive on the floor and spread it out along the batten with the trowel. Place the first blocks in the adhesive to form your pattern. Gently knock the blocks further in the adhesive. The adhesive will allow for some adjustments.
LEAVE the first row to bond with the adhesive for several hours. Remove the batten and excessive adhesive from the floor, then continue with the pattern.

Are the blocks pre-finished? If not, see for finish info Solid Oak wood wood blocks click on info or image.

 

[5125andrew]

Thanks Woodyou like. Is this your business? Had I been able to find new parquet blocks I might have bought these instead of reclaimed, although I hope to get a more interesting floor this way. The cleaning has been a nightmare (I wanted to retain the tongue and grooves).

I am generally competent at DIY and more than willing to attempt to do this myself. The blocks are not prefinished, but I don't need to cut the blocks other than to tie in the brick border. I'll do this with a jigsaw.

Wen you say the first row, I don't understand how the row can be flush with the batten if you're making a herringbone pattern. Surely it's only going to support the first block, as the next block will be staggered. Grateful for a more detailed explanation please. My idea was to screw two perpendicular battens to the floor to create a v into which the blocks can be tapped tightly. Would this work?

 

[WoodYouLike]

My idea was to screw two perpendicular battens to the floor to create a v into which the blocks can be tapped tightly. Would this work?

Only for the first blocks. What I meant was that the batten will act as an anchor (perhaps better word is aiming point). This will enable you to hold your line going down. The blocks will seem to 'move' a bit, that's why you need this 'anchor'.
You have to take your time with this, specially the first row. The adhesive will be 'workable' for a reasonable time, but it's best to pore smaller amounts first until you get the feeling of it.

And yes, it's our business (we don't install herringbones on a weekly basis, just now and then: 7 in the last 3 years). I will try to give you as much tips as possible, but as for a detailed explanation I would be writing a book on it (Come to think of it

 

[chappers]

Have a look here it is a paving website but its basically the same

http://www.pavingexpert.com/howto45.htm

 

[WoodYouLike]

It's a good idea except for the base-line. With paving it doesn't look that akward when there's variation in gaps (you fill that later with grouting, is that the correct word?)
With wooden flooring it's very different and you see better and earlier if you're gaps are 'going' if you start in the middle. Plus you are sure to 'end' with the same seize (cut to fit) on both sides of the room.

 

[5125andrew]

Thanks guys. I mimagine it must be easier with slabs which are very heavy, my problem is that the blocks come out of place when the blocks behind are added.

Now I'm intending to fix perpendicular battens to end of my first row and then tap in a single row (two blocks) of the herringbone pattern across to the other side of the room, let this set and then add whole rows at a time.

One last idea I had was to put a small amount of adhesive between the first couple of blocks, just to ensure the first ones are tight. Is this a bad idea?

 

[WoodYouLike]

One last idea I had was to put a small amount of adhesive between the first couple of blocks, just to ensure the first ones are tight. Is this a bad idea?

Yes. Any tiny gaps that will be there (and trust me, there will be some so don't worry about them) can be filled with wood-filler combined with sand-dust afterwards.
Adhesive is not a suitable filler (at least the one you're using is not).

 

[chappers]

just cut in your first few cuts to ensure things aren't going to move and then things should be alright

 

[5125andrew]

So here's my update. I started with my first line at the weekend. I made my v shaped batten to secure the first two blocks and laid a few blocks. So far so good. Then the next day, I carried on with this first row but by the time I got to the other wall, tapping in new blocks was causing the others to spread out, creating gaps. I did the best I could to bring it all back together, but there were still some small gaps. I let it set and then last night tried to lay the next row. The gaps it created were pretty big and I concluded that they were only going to get bigger with each row. So I decided to take up the first row and start again. I had to scrap all the adhesive off the floor and now have to clean 50 blocks for the second time.

Anyway, I'm not a quitter, I'm going to try again, this time I want to be absolutely precise. Woodulike, can you explain the technique one more time for me please. I don't understand how to put the batten in. The way I understand it, it's only going to act as a guide for the edges of the blocks, is this right?

Even when the blocks appeared to be very close, when I laid the next row, they are not flush and create a gap. Is there a reason for this?

I'm beginning to think this is a bloody nightmare job and should be left to the experts!

 

[WoodYouLike]

Anyway, I'm not a quitter, I'm going to try again, this time I want to be absolutely precise. Woodulike, can you explain the technique one more time for me please. I don't understand how to put the batten in.

Hi Andrew. I've tried to find some good pictures of the batten technic, hopes this helps.
Picture on shows the batten to 'anchor' the first row.

Second row (in the second picture that is the row on the left) can now be placed to complete the first full herringbone pattern.

Leave the two rows to settle, remove the batten and the first full herringbone rows will now act as your anchor for the rest.

 

[5125andrew]

Thanks woodulike. I shall try again!

 

[5125andrew]

I didn't try again folks, Woodulike came to the rescue and did a great job! I now have a parquet floor that looks as if it's always been there, which is what I wanted. It's not perfect, but it looks right for the house. Not sure if I could go through this hassle again in another room, a new floor would be much easier, though.

 

[WoodYouLike]

 

[WoodYouLike]

With permission of the owner of the floor:

for starters:

first sanding

last edge sanding

and the finishing touches