Lead Mains & Leaking Mains Stopcock (-photos added)

[jack_s]

looks like a 5 or 6 pounder

1) Is that dependant on size of Lead pipe, curious why in "Pounds" ??

2) Is a possibility just to remove the Left valve body & screw on a Blank end termination (not sure what you guys call this), as long as it screws on, sealing with PTFE tape ??
( Assuming you can actually remove the Left valve anyway & the thread is still usable).

Thanks
Jack

 

[Nige F]

pounds per foot different thickness for different pressures....prob. with unscrewing L/H "thing"....is it live or not when the R/H tap is off Easiest solution must be Water co. locate Their tap under pavement....then you buy Leadlok and diy.

 

[jack_s]

prob. with unscrewing L/H "thing"...

What do you mean ??

..is it live or not when the R/H tap is off Easiest solution must be Water co. locate Their tap under pavement....then you buy Leadlok and diy.

Do you mean:
is water leaking from Left valve when Right valve is turned Off ??

Jack

 

[Nige F]

Yes, meant is the L under pressure (or leaking) when R is off.....and it would be hard to screw the parts back in with water spilling out under pressure. Was kind of thinking what I`d advise if You`d called me out ..and I`d still say check with the Water co. because I would have to hire a freezer and I wouldn`t trust a pipe so old to not burst on me or cause some grief.....and I think the Water co. should locate their stopcock FOC.but I may be wrong .....hope this helps.

 

[jack_s]

Photos of the leaking stopcock on Lead mains:
http://imageevent.com/jack999/leakingstopcock

Yes, meant is the L under pressure (or leaking) when R is off.....and it would be hard to screw the parts back in with water spilling out under pressure. Was kind of thinking what I`d advise if You`d called me out ..and I`d still say check with the Water co. because I would have to hire a freezer and I wouldn`t trust a pipe so old to not burst on me or cause some grief.....and I think the Water co. should locate their stopcock FOC.but I may be wrong .....hope this helps.

Good question.

I think Left valve might not be under pressure when Right valve is Off, but I'm not certain. I need to check.

It's only just now I've wondered what the Left valve was for (never used it for anything) & I think when I switched Right valve off once, leak from Left valve reduced/stopped.
I only switch off Right valve when I have to, as it supplies maisonnette above me.

L under pressure (or leaking) when R is off.

If L is not under pressure (or leaking) when R is off:

Is a possibility just to remove the Left valve body & screw on a Blank end termination (not sure what you guys call this),
as long as it screws on, sealing with PTFE tape ??

( Assuming you can actually remove the Left valve anyway & the thread is still usable).

peterb

Ps: Strange you guys havent seen a stopcock like this before .

 

[doitall]

I would have thought the left hand valve had to have a use or it wouldn't be there.

How about the seating and it adjusts the flow rate

 

[croydoncorgi]

If it's a shared supply too (!!!) all the more reason to find a way to rip out the SV and as much of the lead as possible, so that there is a working SV for both properties.
Have you actually tried to get some help from the water company?
Whatever else you do, DO NOT try to unscrew the main nuts on EITHER 'half' of the valve with the supply live - you'll get very wet. Undoing the gland nuts (the mostly-round ones that look like they've got serrated edges, where the spindles enter the valve bodies on either side) should be reasonably safe, if your immediate objective is to repack the gland (with PTFE tape).
But my advice would be to plan to get the job done properly, by someone in a position to deal with the consequences if it all goes legs-up. Ideally, the water company.

 

[doitall]

Anyway my guess is it's an equalibrium type of valve to prevent water hammer.

 

[jack_s]

Photos of the leaking stopcock on Lead mains:
http://imageevent.com/jack999/leakingstopcock

Whatever else you do, DO NOT try to unscrew the main nuts on EITHER 'half' of the valve with the supply live - you'll get very wet. Undoing the gland nuts (the mostly-round ones that look like they've got serrated edges, where the spindles enter the valve bodies on either side) should be reasonably safe, if your immediate objective is to repack the gland (with PTFE tape).

The leaks are around inner handle spindle, NOT the threads.
I thought repacking you are sealing the outer thread, aren't you ??

Would undoing & repacking gland nuts solve problem of leaks around inner handle spindles ??
(I thought repacking only sealed the outer gland nut thread)

Or do you pack at the BASE of the gland nut also, where it meets the spindle ??

(I also have some Plumber's Hemp, which I think has similiar use to PTFE tape.
Can I use this Plumber's Hemp or only PTFE tape ??)

Jack

 

[doitall]

Turn the valve off, then gentle undo the little gland nut, wrap 11/2-2 turns of ordinary old fashion waxed parcel string around the shank then push the string into the stuffing box as tight as you can, screw the gland nut back into place, tighten but don't over tighten, Test

 

[jack_s]

wrap 11/2-2 turns of ordinary old fashion waxed parcel string around the shank then push the string into the stuffing box as tight as you can

Are you saying to push some additional string into the valve base (stuffing box)
as well as wrapping around the nut thread (shank) ??

Thanks
Jack

Ps: I got this Plumber's Hemp, when someone suggested repacking, thinking that's what to use.

 

[doitall]

you don't need anything on the thread.

If you dont intend to turn it off ever again then use hemp or ptfe tape.

In the good old we used asbestos string but waxed parcel string is best.

wrap it around the spindle one or two turns but no more and push it into the box with a small screwdriver then screw the gland nut back in

S'pose I should make it clear you don't undo the valve body just the nut on the valve shank

 

[jack_s]

you don't need anything on the thread.

If you dont intend to turn it off ever again then use hemp or ptfe tape.

In the good old we used asbestos string but waxed parcel string is best.

wrap it around the spindle one or two turns but no more and push it into the box with a small screwdriver then screw the gland nut back in

S'pose I should make it clear you don't undo the valve body just the nut on the valve shank

I think I misunderstood where to put string (packing), as I don't know valve innards.

Reading again, I think you mean:

-Switch off valve.
-Undo gland nut.
-Wrap 2 turns waxed string around spindle base (shank).
-Push string tight down into stuffing box (is this a groove ??).
-Screw in gland nut.

Is this correct ??

Thanks
Jack

 

[doitall]

Spot on

You can see the glandnut clearly in your picture.

Remember it will be stiff so use a good pair of glandnut plyers and work it too and fro, it unscrews anticlockwise when viewed from the end of the spindle.

Warning avoid heat if you can as it will make the brass brittle and it will disintegrate and:-

Go steady the job is not without risk when treading on unknown grounds.

Risk assessment.

1. the lead could fracture, crack, fall appart.
2. the brass stopvalve could do the same.
3. the side your working on could still be live even though the valve is shut, not that it should be a problem but you could get a jet of water whilst working on it.
4. avoid as much strain on the main valve as possible, a large adjustable kingdick spanner will help to stop the valve and pipe stressing ( stillsons would do the same job but they have teeth which could do damage).

 

[jack_s]

Reading again, I think you mean:

-Switch off valve.
-Undo gland nut.
-Wrap 2 turns waxed string around spindle base (shank).
-Push string tight down into stuffing box (is this a groove ??).
-Screw in gland nut.

Spot on

You can see the glandnut clearly in your picture.

Remember it will be stiff so use a good pair of glandnut plyers and work it too and fro, it unscrews anticlockwise when viewed from the end of the spindle.

3. the side your working on could still be live even though the valve is shut, not that it should be a problem but you could get a jet of water whilst working on it.
4. avoid as much strain on the main valve as possible, a large adjustable kingdick spanner will help to stop the valve and pipe stressing ( stillsons would do the same job but they have teeth which could do damage).

And this applies to both valves (Right-main valve & Left-balance valve) ??

Is this correct ??

Thanks
Jack