Leaking glass on wood windows

[trevorbayliss]

I have just checked up on some windows i recently repainted today.

The rain looks like it is penetrating around the glass edge and then tracking through the internal wood bead. I am getting little drops pushing out (in photo where my finger is).

When i renovated these windows i sanded well, but remember taking off some silicon around the perimeter of the glass (not all panes mind you, just where it was loose).

I dont deal with wood windows anymore, so this is new to me. Do i just re-silicone around the pane and thats it ?

 

[foxhole]

Are there are weep holes externally? blocked?

 

[trevorbayliss]

No weep holes

 

[Burnerman]

From the outside Trevor - what state are the glass beads in?
I've seen the odd bead of silicone applied around the glass but it doesn't seem to stay there for long.
John

 

[trevorbayliss]

I think they are ok. I have sanded them all down recently and disturbed some silicone. So pretty sure this is my own doing. I will try some new silicone, but wanted to see if this was ok practise on this group.

 

[Burnerman]

I've been busy with a few of these recently - I took the glass beads out (a few were rotten), applied some acrylic putty and pinned them back on. The amount of grot behind them was considerable and showed that rain had been getting in for ages.
These were bespoke mahogany windows and the owner wanted them kept that way.
John

 

[Notch7]

you need to remove the beads to do a proper job.

an outside shot would be helpful

 

[Toria J]

Anyone here used Flexistrip butyl glazing tape on hardwood please?

EDIT: Actually, I may make this a new thread with pics.

 

[trevorbayliss]

I will check next week when i go back.

 

[ronniecabers]

The water will be getting in around the glass unit , the external beads will need to come off. Looking at the pictures , it looks like the sealed units are also slightly too small for the rebate , in an ideal world you should not be able to either the black ' sealant ' or the side face of the ' spacer bar ' , I do know that this is not always possible when DGU's have replaced single glazing . Anyway back to the leaking , the beads need to come over , and if the dgus have not been fitted with ' Flexistrip ' ( as ToriJ eludes to ) or at the very least , silicone , then the dgus need removing.

A guide i wrote many years ago on how , as a company we galze , and our suppliers will warranty our sealed units in wood ( I've heard a few won't )

As a company we don't use just silicone , we use Hodgsons Flexistrip , a butyl flexible putty like strip, that expands and contracts, as it never sets rigid ( https://www.reddiseals.com/product/butyl-tape-sealant/ ) . It is perfectly safe to paint over too. In my honest opinion, the correct way to glaze a wooden frame with a sealed unit would be to put the ' Flexistrip ' flat on the back beads ( Its sticky so will stay there, and it can overlap within the visible glass area ) remove the backing tape, then place your sealed unit in, making sure it has adhered fully to the ' flexistrip' , fill the void between the frame and sealed unit with a Neutral cure Low Modulus clear silicone, then a second layer of 'flexistrip' on the glass unit , where the beads will be sitting ( with practice it becomes easier to see exactly where the beads go without having to use the beads as a template ) , then push each bead onto the flexistrip , again making sure it has adhered , then pin the beads in. Any excess ' flexistrip ' can be trimmed off with a sharp stanley Knife ( other makes of knives are available! ) . Job done and Painter / decorator can paint bead and flexistrip if needed ( comes in off- white ,brown and black so doesn't always need painting. We have been using this method for the best part of 25 years . The only time it may be different if if you have ' dry glazing ' , which is were the bottom bead has packers under it , and sits proud of the frame , creating a drip. No silicone should be required there , as the frame should drain any water out if manufactured and installed correctly