LED Driver

Yes, that all sounds about right. I tried to measure, but I'm none the wiser whether it is exactly 5.3mm or 5.33mm. I did find a manufacturer specification giving the spacing on G5.3, GU5.3, and GX5.3 bases as 5.33mm.

At the risk of getting the discussion all riled up again, MR16 is effectively just as misleading a term as GU5.3. It is used and interpreted as meaning an MR16 on a GU5.3 base, but they are also available on GU10 and small or large screw bases, and I've even seen a picture of one with a bayonet cap.

Until LEDs came on the scene, most lamps with a GU10 base were effectively MR16s, multi-faceted reflectors 16/8" across. I'm not an insider but I imagine it was decided, or just came to pass, that they would be marketed as GU10s rather than MR16s for a GU10 socket to avoid confusion (and perhaps encourage the notion that they were "better"?). Until recently, lamps with a GU10 base that were anything other than an MR16 were exceedingly rare. Likewise, lamps with a GU5.3 base that weren't MR16s were also rare although there are some GU5.3 capsules, effectively an MR16 without the reflector.

Yet now we have lamps with GU10 or GU5.3 bases which are not multi-faceted reflectors, in many cases longer than a standard MR16 lamp, and in a few cases also wider. Calling them GU5.3s in the absence of any other name is at least accurate if not a very helpful description. Many people will not care so long as they have two pins and run on 12V - they're unlikely to stumble across the 5V or 24V versions by accident and those that need a GU5.3 capsule will probably know how to find them. Many others will be surprised not to get a shiny (possibly colourful since they were nearly all dichroic, for good or bad) glass bowl and some have been very disappointed to get over-size metal space-ornaments that won't fit their holders. So maybe they have to be called GU5.3 and people will just have to get used to it.

Does anyone else think that the biggest problems with LED lamps is that 99% of people have no clue which one they need to buy?
 
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The problems with the GU5.3/MR16/GU10 muddle stem from people trying to describe a lamp by only using one of it's characteristics, and since no base type and envelope type are mutually exclusive that was never, ever going to work.

For as long as any of them could remember, people seemed quite happy with "ES candle" and "BC globe" etc, so what t**t decided that, analogously, describing a lamp as a "candle bulb" or a "bayonet bulb" was either necessary or would work as a way of defining all of its physical characteristics, IHNI.

But it would be good to meed him, and ask "what. the. ****. were. you. thinking?", punctuating each word with a blow from a length of 4x2.
 
Does anyone else think that the biggest problems with LED lamps is that 99% of people have no clue which one they need to buy?
Indeed. As I've written several times recently, lighting used to be just about the most straightforward business possible, but now it is a whole pile of confusing minefields. It's obviously not just the 'LED lamps' - it's also dimmers and (if ELV) what one uses to 'drive' them - yet more minefields!

Kind Regards, John
 
A multifaceted reflector (often abbreviated MR) light bulb is a reflector housing format for halogen as well as some LED and fluorescent lamps....MR lamps are designated by symbols such as MR16 where the diameter is represented by numerals indicating units of eighths of an inch. Common sizes for general lighting are MR16 (16⁄8 inches, 51 mm) and MR11 (11⁄8 inches, 35 mm), with MR20 (20⁄8inches, 64 mm) and MR8 (8⁄8 inch, 25 mm) used in specialty applications. Many run on low voltage rather than mains voltage alternating current and require a power transformer in order to be correctly operated.
 
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In the sense of retro-fit LED lamps, it may even be appropriate since they certainly aren't multi-faceted reflector.

Some do seem to be nowadays, usually the cob type and look quite nice, I think they help the manufacturer to alter the beam angle
 
The tech guys at Aurora reckon the AU-LED1012CV will be suitable for running up to 2 x 5W lamps.

LEDHUT reckoned their drivers needed 20% leeway.
 
Someone asked about "bare" LEDs for use with constant current drivers. This seemed a slightly strange question to me ...
I had sort of got the impression that "professional" systems are generally CC. The LEDs fitted in my mate's kitchen by the professionals were all 350mA jobs.
The thing to remember is that the forward voltage of an LED varies not only with current, but also with temperature, and will vary slightly between different chips. If you want your LEDs to be consistent in brightness (and colour - colour changes with current as well) then you need to feed them a constant current and vary the voltage to whatever the LEDs settle at.
And 350mA ? Well that's what most of the high-power chips used for a while - before they started going to 1A for even higher power chips.

For the luminaire manufacturers, it means they just need to take a chip, put it in a housing to suite the aesthetics they want (and allowing for the thermal requirements of the chip), and bring out two wires. No electronics needed, and they can forget about voltage drops etc. All they have to do is spec the unit for "350mA" and the installer picks a 350mA driver rated for the appropriate number of LEDs/power - though I expect the manufacturers will also specify to use their own drivers. The drivers come with multiple outputs, fitted with shorting links for any not used.
 
If you want your LEDs to be consistent in brightness (and colour - colour changes with current as well) then you need to feed them a constant current and vary the voltage to whatever the LEDs settle at.
I don't really understand that. If you feed 'bare LED chips' from a constant-current source, the voltage across the LED will be whatever it is for that particular current (per the LED's V/I characteristic curve). I'm not sure how you are suggesting one could 'vary the voltage' - but, if you found a way of doing it, the current would try to change (with the constant-current doing it's damnedest to stop you varying voltage, hence current!).

Kind Regards, John
 
Vary the voltage - as in, the output voltage of the supply settles at whatever it is when you drive 350mA through the LEDs. That will vary a little between different chips, and with chip temperature.
 
I've mentioned this before ... although it's not uncommon to hear people talking about constant-current LED drivers, I wonder how easy is is to find LED bulbs/lamps (essentially just 'bare' LED elements) to be 'driven' by them? I'm not sure I've ever seen any (other than true 'LED elements') and suspect that they may well not be found in any normal retail outlets.

Kind Regards, John
Went in screwfix today, they now sell constant current drivers, but do not sell constant voltage drivers
 

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