LED FloodLights

[RickH]

I have 4 flood lights, (non PIR) decent items at the time – die cast aluminium glass front.
These particular units had a plastic wiring box at the back, and a standard female 20mm conduit thread.

They were wired up using Electroflex flexible conduit … with Electroflex glands on either end – one direct into wing box, the other to the end of PVC conduit that come through the wall, routing the power.



Time to change these floods to LED, and ideally stainless steel housing. 50-100W would be the power to give equivalent light.

Issue I’m seeing is that LED floodlights seem to come pre-wired with a cable tail ….

Anybody know of floodlight with a wiring box ?

Or failing that a neat box or similar to be able to connect existing Electroflex conduit to. And then run tail to that … not as neat, and will end up with some of tail exposed to elements.

 

[pete01]

Wiska box?

 

[RickH]

Could be a solution, did you use a cable compression gland coming out of the box ? .... can see the top of 'a' gland of some sort.

 

[pete01]

Yes 20mm

 

[RickH]

That would work for me ..... Thnx.


2nd part is anybody know of reasonably priced stainless or some form of composite LED floods ... this is a coastal area, and cast aluminium does not fair well in the salt atmosphere.

 

[Murdochcat]

100w LED flood light will be very bright

 

[Taylortwocities]

100w LED flood light will be very bright

I will try to be more helpful!
A 100-watt halogen floodlight has an LED equivalent of approximately 15-20 watts.

 

[ericmark]

150 watts was the limit for outside lights without planning permission, that would be around 30 watts with LED, but not seen a law change to lumens.

In fact, the limits seem to have now been removed. But in the main safer to keep under the old limit, so 30 watt LED.

 

[AndyPRK]

Led ones fail a lot.

Just fit led replacement lamps.
I recommend brand called diall

 

[Murdochcat]

I will try to be more helpful!

Not sure I agree with that. The OP stated 100w LED - all I did was point out that a 100 w LED would be very bright to get them thinking.

 

[ericmark]

Just fit led replacement lamps.

I did this, the lamp

I found give a very different spread, for me this worked well, but one needs to look are area needing the light. With this house, the lights were on corners of the house, and a carriage light better lit around the corners, but apple trees and a shed stopped the light going down the drive. So it was not until I got a new shed, did I get reasonable light for the drive.

There is a lot to consider, I did think of fitting a 70 watt metal halide lamp I had spare, great for the BBQ, but not so good just to light the way up the drive. View is from the house.

I wanted the two lamps I have to be independent of each other, but they are wired together, again a carriage lamp allowed use of smart bulbs, so I could use just one. The shed light is bulkhead type, so could use a smart bulb, but actually using a smart socket adaptor, found BA22d smart bulbs are more expensive to E27 so used a socket adaptor I had in stock.

To see the way to the door needs very little light, last house had a problem with PIR control being set off with central heating (before the LED smart bulb) so used a 6 watt CFL from Ikea left on 24/7 ample to light the path.

 

[AndyPRK]

Can't say I have noticed a different spread of light with them.
They are certainly worth trying before throwing away a quality fixture, and replacing it with something that will only last a matter of months.