LED lighting for landing - from diy NOT

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I'm no longer able to do anything myself, except make a nuisance of myself to the tradesmen I hire to do jobs for me. And the first rule of good interference is to know what you're talking about - preferably before you specify the job and hire the tradesmen. So here I am at a place called DIY NOT, hoping that the emphasis on the "not" is acceptable. :)

I have an L shaped landing with the stairs coming up the short arm and the long thin one leading down past a couple of doors to an end bedroom. We currently have just two lights, one above the head of the stairs and the other nearly at the end of the "corridor". Both are triple lights, with bulbs that won't fit anywhere else in the house. Both are now nearly dead, with only one bulb working. Both are on dimmer switches.

We don't much care for "candelabras", we don't like dimmer switches generally and especially not in non-living spaces and would like to move over to more sensible bulbs. I've had family opinion that says, "Just put in single fittings and energy-saving bulbs and straight switches," and ones that hymn the virtue of fluorescent strips and even some in favour of retaining the dimmers.

Me, I know that the electrics will probably need looking at and also that the ceiling needs painting (no wooden panelling here), so I think this is the time for a technological leap and I want to go over to LED lighting - if that's practical.

When I first thought of this 4 years ago, LEDs were strictly for display lighting and faddists. I get the impression, however, that LEDs are now ready for the mainstream. My own preference is to have 2 tracks of LED lighting with spots that can be used for to light the corridor bookcases and/or pictures and then one standard pendent light - also LED for preference - to cast light down the stairwell.

Questions:

1] Is it possible to find an LED lamp which could be put in a fairly standard shade (yet to be picked!) to light the stairway?

2] Can I put LED lights on a track using the wiring which currently supports the 3-lamp light fitting now in place?

3] Is it practical to specify a "neutral white" LED, which would be the best if we decide to put pictures up - some suppliers do not appear to stock them?

4] Since we will be looking at a brand new fitting in both cases, which sort of LED should I expect to install? I've seen a lot of talk about different letters (GU10, M16R, etc) but nothing that helps much - "Will fit where your halogen lights went," is no help at all since I'm replacing the light fittings as well as the bulbs. I don't even know whether the future lies with bayonet or screw fittings.

I've a reasonable capital budget, so saving a few quid on every bulb is not a pre-requisite. Getting it right first time so that I don't have the hassle of calling (and paying) an electrician to change a technological or aesthetic mistake would be much worse. What I don't have is time or energy to climb around trying things out. :(

Suggestions?
 
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1 - yes
2 - yes
3 - yes
4 - bayonet

It's a hallway, you just need to see your way along it, no need for fancy lighting. Simple pendant fittings, bayonet lamp connection, LED lamp, ordinary on-off switches, sorted. The only reason you might want dimmers is if you leave the lights on overnight and want a lower light level, in which case you'd just have to specify dimmable lamps and check the dimmers are rated for LEDs (usually "trailing edge" dimmers).

The light colour in LEDs varies from warm to cold and can be assessed from the kelvin number on the packaging - crudely, the lower the K number the warmer the light. Typically 2500K is equivalent to a "normal" incandescent lamp, probably what you want in the hall.

pj
 
Questions:

1] Is it possible to find an LED lamp which could be put in a fairly standard shade (yet to be picked!) to light the stairway?
Yes there are many types for all types of fittings http://www.philips.co.uk/c/-/19964/cat/

2] Can I put LED lights on a track using the wiring which currently supports the 3-lamp light fitting now in place?
Yes, it should be a straight forward swap.
3] Is it practical to specify a "neutral white" LED, which would be the best if we decide to put pictures up - some suppliers do not appear to stock them?
It's down personal choice of what ambient lighting you want, but I personally would stick to neutral/natural white light
4] Since we will be looking at a brand new fitting in both cases, which sort of LED should I expect to install? I've seen a lot of talk about different letters (GU10, M16R, etc) but nothing that helps much - "Will fit where your halogen lights went," is no help at all since I'm replacing the light fittings as well as the bulbs. I don't even know whether the future lies with bayonet or screw fittings.
If you browse the link as above http://www.philips.co.uk/c/-/19964/cat/, You will see the lamp fitting types available in LED.
 
If you are using LEDs for lighting pictures then check the amout of ultra violet energy that the LED emits. UV fades paintings by slowly bleaching the pigments in the paint. UV blocking glass in front of the LED may be necessary to protect the paintings.
 
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Thanks for the help, guys.

I took a quick look at the Philips site (getting quickly past the attempts to sell me "anti-aging products") and am still a little confused.

The brightest bulb they have there is labelled 11W (60W). Now if that's the equivalent wattage to a 60W conventional bulb, then that is hardly adequate for lighting a staircase.

Is this indeed as bright as LEDs get, or have I misunderstood the labelling? If I have not misunderstood, then how do I get a bulb bright enough for a place where I would once have reckoned a 100W bulb too dim?

db
 
One more question - should I be looking at what's available with GU10 or MR16 or whatever

This depends on what type of fitting you install and there is varied choice at you disposal.
But note GU10s are 240V but MR16 are 12V, the latter will require transformers.
 
MR16 is a Multifaceted Reflector 16 eighths of an inch (i.e. 2") across the front of the lamp. One particular type of MR16 is the GU10 which is 240 Volt and has a bayonet fitting.

However, in practice where you see a product labeled MR16 it's usually a 12 Volt 2 pin push in lamp, and needs a transformer to supply the 12 VDC

GU10's are never actually labelled MR16 to avoid confusion.

Which is best (12V MR16 or 240V GU10)? I really don't know. If you have a lot of 12V MR16's on one transformer and the transformer fails all the lights go out, not so with GU10's. But then again with an LED GU10 each lamp will have to have it's own built in transformer which I would guess is less efficient and more to go wrong overall.

Edit: Or what PBoD explained simply while I wrote a confusing essay :)
 
Edit: Or what PBoD explained simply while I wrote a confusing essay :)
That's OK, "confusing essays" I know about. :rolleyes:

And, actually, between you, you are all starting to make sense. Now I know where the MR16 gets its name, could someone enlighten me (just curiosity this one) where the "GU10" name comes from?

db
 
Sorry, slight mistake. I seem to have edited a post with material which should have been a new one. So I'll repeat the substance here:

I took a quick look at the Philips site (getting quickly past the attempts to sell me "anti-aging products") and am still a little confused.

The brightest bulb they have there is labelled 11W (60W). Now if that's the equivalent wattage to a 60W conventional bulb, then that is hardly adequate for lighting a staircase.

Is this indeed as bright as LEDs get, or have I misunderstood the labelling? If I have not misunderstood, then how do I get a bulb bright enough for a place where I would once have reckoned a 100W bulb too dim?

Sorry about that ..

db
 
One particular type of MR16 is the GU10 which is 240 Volt and has a bayonet fitting.
That's not a particular type of MR16, it is a particular type of base which some lamps with MR16 envelopes have.


However, in practice where you see a product labeled MR16 it's usually a 12 Volt 2 pin push in lamp, and needs a transformer to supply the 12 VDC
Indeed.


GU10's are never actually labelled MR16 to avoid confusion.
Actually it's precisely that practice which causes the confusion.
 

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