LEDs Replacing Older Lamp Technologies

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I've touched on this before.

In the "old" days, you used to judge the brightness of a lamp by its wattage.

Then in latter years, we were told to use its lumen value.

But these days, IME, you can replace (for example) an old fluorescent with an LED of lesser lumen value that is as bright or brighter than the one you are replacing.

I'm thinking about it as I am to be tasked with the replacement of a (can't remember) 40 or 60W circular fluorescent.

Depending on the brand and colour temperature, 40W circular flu tubes start at sub 3000 lm, and 60W start at the late 3000s.

When an older lamp or fitting is replaced, it needs to light the area at least as well as the outgoing one.

What do people think?
 
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For example, I have an Ansell Gamma 18W fitting.
It says on the back it is the equivalent of a 28W 2D lamp, but I find it much brighter.
 
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For example, I have an Ansell Gamma 18W fitting.
It says on the back it is the equivalent of a 28W 2D lamp, but I find it much brighter.
Fluorescent tubes emit light 360 degrees around them.
Most of the light NOT going downwards/outwards is usually poorly reflected by the fitting and, hence, is largely wasted.
LED tubes tend to emit MOST of the light produced over (about) 180 degrees, in a downward/outward direction.
Hence, although they may produce the same or less light, they can appear brighter or just as bright, where it counts.
Also, they do not fade as much over their "life time".
 
In my old house we had two tungsten lamps in the living room, originally 100 watt, there were replaced with two chandeliers with 3 bulbs each, we would either use 40 or 60 watt bulbs, and when the compact fluorescent came in dropped to three 11 watt in each chandelier, but not really bright enough so went to two 5 bulb chandeliers, and used golf ball 8 watt bulbs, so 80 watt in all, not really bright enough and when they started to fail the LED was just coming in, first couple were I think 1.8 watt, but next time Lidi had them in stock went to 3 watt, it seemed brighter, however more to do with the K setting and they were whiter, when trying to read under the lamps I couldn't so used them in mothers house with smaller room and replaced with 10 x 5 watt.

So we have moved from 200 watt to 50 watt, over the 40 years we had lived there, this is not what the charts say, but we had reduced the power used by a ¼ of the original value. We also had to change the room thermostat as with tungsten we were getting inferred heat from the bulbs so set at 18°C all day and evening was fine, once changed we wanted 18°C in the day but 20°C in the evening.

This house must have had a single 150 watt bulb, so went to a chandelier with 8 x 6 watt bulbs, but not really good enough, so uplighters, reading lamps, and display cabinet lights supplement the main light, the display cabinet lights are smart colour changing, 2 x 18 watt and 1 x 22 watt but dimmable so not normally at full output. So likely around 85 watt total lighting, we used smart controls so hey google turn on living room lights or turn off living room lights works all, or it would be a pain turning them all on/off. OK a large room, we have 5 Ikea billy bookcases on the shortest wall, so around 11 meters x 22 meters, but to read I need the GU10 standard lamp behind the chair.

Same with other rooms, my bedroom has 3 x GU10 and a 12 watt pendent, so around 25 watt, wife's bedroom lamp changed for a 5 bulb G9 chandelier with around 6 watt bulbs so 30 watt, plus bedside lights. Some of it may be due to my age, at 72 need more light to read, but comparing tungsten to LED seems to be between ¼ and ½ the original size to read with.

Noted the same with my DSLR settings, the colour temperature with LED is far higher, but the lumen output is no where near the claims made. some is down to different angle of output, and large bulbs we can look at over 100 lumen per watt, but using 5 watt more like 70 lumen per watt, which is less than we got from the fluorescent tube.

So I had a 4 and 5 foot fluorescent in my old kitchen, the 5 foot 64 watt was swapped for a 58 watt, and it was the spread I needed rather than that much light, so when the volts dropped and the 58 watt failed, I could replace with a 22 watt LED, but my son when he bought the house did not like the look of the fluorescent tube, so swapped it for 16 x 3 watt GU10 lamps so back to 48 watt nearly as much as the 58 watt used to start with.
 
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Fluorescent tubes emit light 360 degrees around them.
Depends on the tube, the better quality were coated, and with an electronic ballast it used less power to printed on the tube and gave out more light, so around 90 lumen per watt, where LED is more like 100 lumen per watt. So very little in it.

However compact fluorescent is more like 55 lumen per watt and LED in a bulb shape around 75 lumen per watt, So as a CFL well worth replacing with LED, but as a tube very little gain.
 
I have a selection of spare bulbs, including 5W and 8W golfballs, and try them out for suitability. Efficiency is gradually increasing.

I'm now using a 5W led in bedside lamps (same lumens as the older 8W)
 
I used to use 70 watt tungsten bulbs back in the days.
Now replaced by 10W LED bulbs which produce 2X the light with much of a warm white colour.
Oh i hate yellow light emitting bulbs.
 
I've touched on this before.

In the "old" days, you used to judge the brightness of a lamp by its wattage.

Then in latter years, we were told to use its lumen value.

But these days, IME, you can replace (for example) an old fluorescent with an LED of lesser lumen value that is as bright or brighter than the one you are replacing.

I'm thinking about it as I am to be tasked with the replacement of a (can't remember) 40 or 60W circular fluorescent.

Depending on the brand and colour temperature, 40W circular flu tubes start at sub 3000 lm, and 60W start at the late 3000s.

When an older lamp or fitting is replaced, it needs to light the area at least as well as the outgoing one.

What do people think?
Use LED tubes they are much more better
 
I find it is the features. Dusk and dawn, colour changing, dimming which works with no switch bussing, voice control, timed on/off.

The saving with a 60 or 100 lumen per watt is not the important bit, it is walking to stairs with a cup of coffee in each hand and just having to say hey Google turn on landing lights.

Be it in the bulb, switch or relay, it has transformed our way of living, I still have some simple lights, and I think one 70 watt lamp left, metal halide not a clue of light output, but it is a lot, good for evening BBQ.
 
Just got one of these on an overnight delivery. Give it a go...

16996385343842947212558857575039.jpg
 
I find it is the features. Dusk and dawn, colour changing, dimming which works with no switch bussing, voice control, timed on/off.

The saving with a 60 or 100 lumen per watt is not the important bit, it is walking to stairs with a cup of coffee in each hand and just having to say hey Google turn on landing lights.

Be it in the bulb, switch or relay, it has transformed our way of living, I still have some simple lights, and I think one 70 watt lamp left, metal halide not a clue of light output, but it is a lot, good for evening BBQ.

I keep my stairways and porch illuminated with a timer. The cost of running LED lamps is insignificant.
 
In the "old" days, you used to judge the brightness of a lamp by its wattage. Then in latter years, we were told to use its lumen value. But these days, IME, you can replace (for example) an old fluorescent with an LED of lesser lumen value that is as bright or brighter than the one you are replacing.
I think those rules-of-thumb in the "old days" only worked fairly well because they were the result of experience (i.e.'trial and error').

I suspect that "new days" will come (particularly for generations who have known of nothing other than LEDs) when there are corresponding rules-of-thumb for LEDs which are not appreciably worse than the ones of old which related to incandescent bulbs.

Kind Regards, John
 
The tungsten bulb shone out in nearly every direction, there was a small shadow where the base was, but the LED in the main sends all light away from the base, so same 3 bulbs can have the base at bottom, top, or side, depending on the chandelier, and I have found base at bottom often works well, where the ceiling reflects the light giving an even coverage over a wide area.

However ceiling height is important, as is colour of ceiling, and for that matter also walls and floor. All the selection tools are now useless, as the spread of light is so different. And I have bought bulbs with lumen per watt from 60 to 120, so same wattage bulb can have double the light.

The two 5 bulb chandeliers I had in last house had one 1.8 watt and 9 x 3 watt, and no way could I see which was the odd bulb out. All candle shape. I changes to 10 x 5 watt as could not read with them, it worked I could then read in the room, but walking through the room could see no change.
 
The tungsten bulb shone out in nearly every direction, there was a small shadow where the base was ...
I'm no so sure about that "small" shadow, at least with 'clear' bulbs (those with transparent envelopes), since,even when the envelope was large, the filament was often quite small, often not a lot bigger than the base. Hence, if you had an incandescent bulb in a chandelier, with the bulb's base at 'bottom', and a black ceiling and walls, I'm not sure that you would get much downward illumination.
, but the LED in the main sends all light away from the base, so same 3 bulbs can have the base at bottom, top, or side, depending on the chandelier ...
Whilst that may be true of LEDs with clear (transparent) envelopes, I'm again not so sure when the envelope is (much more commonly) translucent, and therefore acts as a 'diffuser'. Although it's difficult to really assess in a photo, the envelope of this LED looks pretty evenly illuminated to me, hence likely to radiate light in most directions, seemingly missing out on perhaps about 50 or so of thee 360 possible degrees ...

1699671874938.png


Kind Regards, John
 
Diffusers or pearl glass can help to spread the light, but the LED often has a flat plate inside so be it a GU10, candle, or golf ball bulb the inside is the same, a flat plate with surface mounted components designed to remove the heat from the LED chips. Yes I know in the latter years of the tungsten bulb the government banned the use of pearl glass, never worked out why, if the same rules applied to LED they would be even worse as giving an all round light.
 

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