Levelling my new shower tray.

[FERMAC]

Hi,

I ahve had a good look through older posts about installing shower trays and the general opinion is to use silicone or gripfill to secure it in place rather than a sand/cement mix.

I have bought a couple of tubes of gripfill. But I placed the tray in the location I want the shower to check the levels, and its not perfectly level.

Its a stone resin tray, going on a tongue and groove wooden floor.

How can I get the tray level but still use gripfill to secure it. Its not out by a huge amount but I know the trays must be perfectly level!

No instructions came with the tray. Asked in the well known DIY store where I got it and they were absolutely no help as usual!

 

[ChrisR]

You can use lots of strips - of very thin plywood, lino, roofing felt etc. Anything to build it up level and not squash too much. Then fill all the gaps with gripfill. I've seen dobs of tile cement used, filed off after they've set.

 

[fitz1]

supposed to use sand and cement.i always do.

 

[Softus]

IMHO you'd be mad to use gripfill because it is isn't sufficiently squidgy.

If I don't have a level base on which to put a tray then I either create a level platform (and then use silicone) or use sand/cement.

Notwithstanding all of that, if you've bought a defective tray, which gets more likely when you buy some non-branded thing from a shed, you might have trouble getting the top level even if the floor (or platform) is perfect.

As with nearly all things, you gets what you pays for.

 

[Beans-on-Toast]

Before you decide how your going to glue, cement or stick this new tray, please consider whether or not you have access to the shower trap.

If not, do yourself a favour and build a platform that includes access, you never know when you'll need to get to the trap, especially if you have more than one woman around you that has long hair.............

Indeed, unlike me you may even have long hair.....

 

[Softus]

...you never know when you'll need to get to the trap....

It's very rare to have to get to the trap connections after installation, but if you don't already have a trap that gives hair-removal access from above, then get one!

 

[Beans-on-Toast]

Very True in most cases, in some exceptions you won't need to get to the trap until your bathroom is under an inch of water, soap residue and HAIR overflowing from the shower tray....!

Seen this 'two - a - times - a - twice' in the last fortnight......!

 

[Softus]

Very True in most cases, in some exceptions you won't need to get to the trap until your bathroom is under an inch of water, soap residue and HAIR overflowing from the shower tray....!

Seen this 'two - a - times - a - twice' in the last fortnight......!

Er, I'm not at all sure what this piece of linguistic wizardry means, but I'm curious to know what fault you're describing that needed access to the trap from under the tray...

 

[Beans-on-Toast]

First one was completely blocked with hair, soap, etc etc just beyond the trap............
Second one on the following day had been plumbed in with flexi, which was far too long and had dropped, again the pipe was blocked with all sorts, not to mention, toenails and yes long HAIR




Besides we have been fitting access panels to shower traps for years, its good practice just like service valves....

 

[Softus]

First one was completely blocked with hair, soap, etc etc just beyond the trap.

Easily cleared with a snake then?!

Second one on the following day had been plumbed in with flexi, which was far too long and had dropped, again the pipe was blocked with all sorts, not to mention, toenails and yes long HAIR

Simple answer - don't use a flexi. If you do then clearly you should expect to have to replace it sooner than you would replace rigid pipe/fittings.

...its good practice just like service valves...

I don't subscribe to the view that the unthinking introduction of extra valves, and work, constitutes good practise.

As you've observed, there are good and bad trap/waste installations, but if you don't make the decision as to whether or not a valve, or access panel, is needed, based on on the circumstances, then you're not thinking enough.

I still don't have the tiniest clue as to what you're trying to convey with this string of icons.

 

[Beans-on-Toast]

errrrrrr no, not easily cleared with a snake, no....!

And to clarify what I actually mean: If access had been thought through at the time of these installations I (or another ) would not have had to ask the customer to choose which to demolish Kitchen Ceiling or Bathroom Floorboards ?????

Personally I only use rigid pipe/fittings for every installation. I ensure I have enough time available rather than using time saving products of this nature.

Lets not debate who is and who is not thinking enough, I come across work every day that needs a service panel or inline valves and its only when these things need fixing that Mr Original Installer states on a crackly phone that he only DOES installs and doesn't fix anything...No Good Bas Tards in the Main, and people like me are left to sort out their mess.

As for my use of Emoticons Am I not allowed to do this, are you some type of policeman ? Read into it whatever you will




Actually are you one of those No Good Bas Tards........? They don't believe in the best, just the quickest...........oooooh no Mrs. its a fifty fer one o dem there valves........

 

[Softus]

I still don't have the tiniest clue as to what you're trying to convey with this string of icons.

As for my use of Emoticons Am I not allowed to do this, are you some type of policeman ?

No.

Read into it whatever you will

ok.

 

[ChrisR]

supposed to use sand and cement.i always do.

Would feel unhappy about a "screed" a few mm thick just to get it level. How thick do you use it fitz?

 

[croydoncorgi]

The 'resin-stone' tray manufacturer I've actually spoken to (I believe they all sing of the same hymn-sheet) recommends building a dead-level base capable of supporting the weight and rigid enough not to sag anywhere and then, in effect, floating the tray on a very wet mix of sand/cement, with battens round the edge and the hole for the trap blocked to stop the mix from running away. That way, any imperfections in the base are filled and the tray is supported across its full width.

If you choose to do something else, it MAY work but if the tray cracks (for any reason) the makers will reject any claim because you didn't fit it as per recommendations.