LG plasma tv problem

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Hi all,
I am gutted my 50" LG tv won't switch on its only 18 month old!!
It clicks and the screen flashes as usual and it does this twice which is not usual and then it clicks but does not flash and then goes in to stand.
Can any body help??
 
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Manufacturers often offer a one-year warranty, but recently consumer publications and TV programmes have been highlighting the fact that this can, in practice, be extended on the grounds that such things should be expected to last for much longer than one year.

Kick up a stink!

Edit: Reminds me of a joke about how, in mediaeval times, people used to throw their ordure out of the window into the street. This continued for years until someone kicked up a stink.
 
Manufacturers often offer a one-year warranty, but recently consumer publications and TV programmes have been highlighting the fact that this can, in practice, be extended on the grounds that such things should be expected to last for much longer than one year.
Key bit is Sale of Goods and Services Act - I think the latest version is something like 2006. Says goods must be ... reasonably durable and that is an implied term of any contract between a business and a consumer.

How long something needs to work to be "reasonably durable" isn't defined, but it will depend on many factors - such as price paid (ie a budget "never heard of the brand" from the market won't be expected to last as long as a "top of the range" brand).

The only limit is the 6 year limit for private action set out as in the statute of limitations, so in theory you can take action against the retailer (it's nothing to do with the manufacturer) any time up to 6 years after you bought it. Obviously, your case weakens with time.

In this case, noting the comment about googling for faulty capacitors, it would seem the OP has a good case for arguing that the unit was faulty when sold (faulty design or bad choice of caps by the manufacturer) and has not been reasonably durable.
 
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Hi all,
I am gutted my 50" LG tv won't switch on its only 18 month old!!
It clicks and the screen flashes as usual and it does this twice which is not usual and then it clicks but does not flash and then goes in to stand.
Can any body help??

Often this is caused by failed capacitors in the power supply.
For anyone with this problem I offer the following advice (adopt proper safety measures).

Open it up and thoroughly inspect the main printed circuit boards looking for signs that a capacitor has failed these are - bulging can, plug at bottom pushed out, domed top to the can, fluid leak.

There are numerous videos on You Tube showing how to change these caps and people sell replacement cap kits on e-bay.

The one that I have just done had a selection of voltage caps - 10, 25 and 35 volts but only the 10 volt caps appeared to be faulty. I decided to replace only the 10 volt caps but with 25 volt rated versions (obviously the same capacitance).

This is tricky since there is often not enough board space to accommodate the larger 25v replacements so you have to get a bit inventive standing them off the PCB.

Also remember that when you come to unsolder the dud caps you will be working on stinkin lead free solder which melts at a far higher temperature than lead/tin solder so a 17 watt iron won't do the job.

When buying replacement caps I suggest that you will need 105 degree caps rated at 5000 hours or more. The LG most likely came with Sanwa caps but you should choose from the likes of Panasonic, Rubycon, ChemiCon. It's easy to spot good caps - they cost more.

When you desolder the PCB - write down the values of the caps you take out against their PCB component number which is silk screened onto the PCB.

The component cost for this job is about £10 (using best quality components) and it takes about 30-60 minutes most of which is spent finding all the screws in the back of the set.

Note that if you open an account with RS you get free postage on any value purchase and next day delivery - they invoice you and deduct the price from your debit card. Simples!
 
When buying replacement caps I suggest that you will need 105 degree caps rated at 5000 hours or more.
This is a meaningless rating and doesn't guarantee decent reliability. My advice is to buy capacitors with a very low ESR (and not from eBay). Also, there's no need to replace a 10v cap with a 25v cap. 16v is more than adequate and, if you can get a 10v cap with low ESR, that will be fine. The problem is that the original cap wasn't the correct (i.e. low ESR) type.

As usual, Satcure is the oracle: http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/low_ESR_capacitors.htm

You can, of course, ignore this advice and the equipment will probably work for a year or two before it fails again. No problem if you are selling it to some unsuspecting customer. Heck, that's exactly what the manufacturer did!
 
TAKE VERY GREAT CARE IF IN THE BACK OF ANY TV & ALWAYS WORK WITH ONE HAND IN YOUR POCKET WHEN EVER POSSIBLE.
 
WHAT? :eek:

Better still, disconnect power and discharge high voltages, safely. Then you can use as many hands as you like.

If you haven't been taught how to do this, don't take the back off the TV.
 
When buying replacement caps I suggest that you will need 105 degree caps rated at 5000 hours or more.
This is a meaningless rating and doesn't guarantee decent reliability. My advice is to buy capacitors with a very low ESR (and not from eBay). Also, there's no need to replace a 10v cap with a 25v cap. 16v is more than adequate and, if you can get a 10v cap with low ESR, that will be fine. The problem is that the original cap wasn't the correct (i.e. low ESR) type.

As usual, Satcure is the oracle: http://www.satcure.co.uk/accs/low_ESR_capacitors.htm

You can, of course, ignore this advice and the equipment will probably work for a year or two before it fails again. No problem if you are selling it to some unsuspecting customer. Heck, that's exactly what the manufacturer did!

So what you are saying is that if I ignore your advice which you have obtained from a commercial web site called Satcure who sell capacitors without letting you know who the actual manufacturer is I will be doing a cynically bad job.

Do you think I should use 85 degree low ESR caps in a TV? Do you think that only ultra-low ESR caps should be used in all electronics?

The fact is that the working temperature and lifespan values of a capacitor are an indirect indicator of the component's ability to dissipate heat generated internally and are profoundly correlated to the component's reliability over time. These are not, as you say, meaningless ratings.

Satcure may well be an OK company but they do not give detailed information on the components that they supply and they are very expensive. In the one case that I checked (CP150035P) their price £2.72 / piece for a 3000 hour 105 degree nameless cap does not compare favourably with say RS. And if these values are meaningless why do they quote them (on some parts)?

I offered some correct advice for people who need to do a fast effective job at an optimum price. By replacing the 10 volt caps with 25 volt ones I could simply buy 10 caps rather than 10 of each voltage and the extra headroom does no harm.

All in all I found your comment offensive.
 
Your 25v capacitor may last longer than a 10v one because its internal resistance will be slightly lower. But, unless it's a "low ESR" (with the ESR value stated) it's still not low enough. What did it actually measure?

I forwarded your comments to Satcure and here's Martin's immediate reply:-

I've been doing electronics design and repair for 50 years+ (since I was 10) so I know a bit about it. The stated ambient temperature and hour ratings of capacitors are no more than a loose guide and, since it's the ESR that matters in applications where there's a high, fast-risetime, current pulse density, they are irrelevant when applied to general purpose capacitors.

Still, he's not the only person who fails to understand the difference between ambient temperature and internal heating. Here's an analogy that might help:-

It's rather like saying that ordinary tyres will be absolutely fine on a racing car, provided that it doesn't exceed the stated 105 mph max speed for more than a few hours. This is nonsense since the more important consideration is the extreme cornering force, which will rip an ordinary tyre apart because it causes overheating of the flexible tread.

Likewise, with an ordinary "General Purpose" electrolytic capacitor, any "high cornering forces" (high, fast-risetime, current pulse density) will destroy it, regardless of any ambient temperature rating. The reason for this is that the internal resistance is high so the high current causes internal heating. This has very little to do with ambient temperature rating.

If you've followed me so far, you may now understand that a general purpose capacitor is fine for applications where there are no high current pulses and, in those applications where there is no internal heating effect, the hour/temperature ratings are a reasonable guide to longevity.

However, high current pulse considerations override all other ratings and must be taken into account where applicable. This is a point which many young Power Supply designers completely fail to understand, which is why there's so much equipment being scrapped due to bad capacitors. Even Alan Sugar's Technical Director failed to understand this and it cost the Amstrad company big money.

Unfortunately, it's a fact of life that low ESR capacitors are more expensive, just as racing tyres are more expensive than ordinary ones. SatCure won't compromise on quality and reliability.

Frankly, I simply can't understand people who do a shoddy job. I've had one lad write to me to boast that he got THREE capacitors off eBay for the price of one of ours. But why would he need spares? Why would anyone want to replace the same part over and over when the capacitors we sell are guaranteed for 3 years (but will probably last for at least ten)?

BTW this penny-pinching outlook is peculiar to Britain. People walk into a shop and ask "how much is that TV?" But in Germany they ask "how reliable is that TV?" and they wouldn't dream of having a TV programme called "rip-off Germany". They expect to pay for good quality and reliability.

BTW our low-ESR capacitors are manufactured by Panasonic. We don't advertise this fact because all the eBay sellers will rush out to get general purpose Panasonic capacitors and claim "The Same As SatCure Sells", which would be a lie. We are very selective in our choice and some have to be ordered from America.
 
Your 25v capacitor may last longer than a 10v one because its internal resistance will be slightly lower. But, unless it's a "low ESR" (with the ESR value stated) it's still not low enough. What did it actually measure?

I forwarded your comments to Satcure and here's Martin's immediate reply:-

I've been doing electronics design and repair for 50 years+ (since I was 10) so I know a bit about it. The stated ambient temperature and hour ratings of capacitors are no more than a loose guide and, since it's the ESR that matters in applications where there's a high, fast-risetime, current pulse density, they are irrelevant when applied to general purpose capacitors.

Still, he's not the only person who fails to understand the difference between ambient temperature and internal heating. Here's an analogy that might help:-

It's rather like saying that ordinary tyres will be absolutely fine on a racing car, provided that it doesn't exceed the stated 105 mph max speed for more than a few hours. This is nonsense since the more important consideration is the extreme cornering force, which will rip an ordinary tyre apart because it causes overheating of the flexible tread.

Likewise, with an ordinary "General Purpose" electrolytic capacitor, any "high cornering forces" (high, fast-risetime, current pulse density) will destroy it, regardless of any ambient temperature rating. The reason for this is that the internal resistance is high so the high current causes internal heating. This has very little to do with ambient temperature rating.

If you've followed me so far, you may now understand that a general purpose capacitor is fine for applications where there are no high current pulses and, in those applications where there is no internal heating effect, the hour/temperature ratings are a reasonable guide to longevity.

However, high current pulse considerations override all other ratings and must be taken into account where applicable. This is a point which many young Power Supply designers completely fail to understand, which is why there's so much equipment being scrapped due to bad capacitors. Even Alan Sugar's Technical Director failed to understand this and it cost the Amstrad company big money.

Unfortunately, it's a fact of life that low ESR capacitors are more expensive, just as racing tyres are more expensive than ordinary ones. SatCure won't compromise on quality and reliability.

Frankly, I simply can't understand people who do a shoddy job. I've had one lad write to me to boast that he got THREE capacitors off eBay for the price of one of ours. But why would he need spares? Why would anyone want to replace the same part over and over when the capacitors we sell are guaranteed for 3 years (but will probably last for at least ten)?

BTW this penny-pinching outlook is peculiar to Britain. People walk into a shop and ask "how much is that TV?" But in Germany they ask "how reliable is that TV?" and they wouldn't dream of having a TV programme called "rip-off Germany". They expect to pay for good quality and reliability.

BTW our low-ESR capacitors are manufactured by Panasonic. We don't advertise this fact because all the eBay sellers will rush out to get general purpose Panasonic capacitors and claim "The Same As SatCure Sells", which would be a lie. We are very selective in our choice and some have to be ordered from America.

Firstly, thank you for taking the time to bother to reply to the somewhat throw away (and correct) comments that I ventured in the hope that I might be able to help someone a little bit and also for involving your chum Martin. I genuinely don't know why you have singled me out for such attention but I'm not flattered by being repeatedly accused of shoddy work by strangers who know nothing about me.

Let's get down to some facts.

1. This is a DIY forum not an electronics forum. My comments are designed to help someone make a good choice without having to get a degree in electronics first. DIY normally involves saving money so my advice was on how to buy the right thing at a good price not the absolute best thing at any price.

2. I am not a TV repairman. I needed to get a TV working for an elderly lady who uses the TV as more or less her only source of entertainment and company. I do not charge the elderly for repairing anything. Curry's TV repair service, for example, costs £95 plus parts. This is two thirds of a week's state pension. I successfully repaired that TV in 2 elapsed days at no cost at all to the user. Do you understand why I found your comments offensive?

3. You assert that the working temperature range and endurance characteristics of a capacitor are meaningless because it says that on the Satcure web site. Furthermore you assert that the only meaningful parameter is that of equivalent series resistance. To add insult to injury you also say that if I don't believe you and your chum Martin that I will be guilty of doing bad repairs that will quickly fail again.

4. Martin of Satcure (presumably) has told us that he buys Panasonic capacitors but that he doesn't let people know what they are buying from the web site so Satcure cannot be copied. Satcure make a big pitch about ESR and generally specify the impedance of their capacitors (at 100 kHz at 20 deg C) although the working temperature and endurance are also often specified despite being 'meaningless'.

I'm going to have to guess here but if we take the case of a 470uF 25 volt radial electrolytic with a 0.03 ohm impedance from that site I'd think it may be from the FR series and likely a EEUFR1E471L. If so this is, indeed, a very fine capacitor. We can tell this without knowing that the impedance is a very low 0.03 ohms.

The AC ripple current is high (good) at 1560mA and its endurance is a splendid 9000 hours at 105 deg C.

We can also see what its overall efficiency is by looking at its data sheet and finding the value for tan δ (0.14 where lower is better). The tan delta is an expression of the overall loss of energy to heat; ESR is an important factor in the calculation of tan delta but not the only factor.

And now for the take home message.

Aside from physical characteristics, values and tolerance the most MEANINGFUL things to know about a capacitor are:

Working temperature range
Endurance at temperature
Ripple current
Tan delta and ESR

If you visit Panasonic’s capacitor site you will find that ESR isn’t even included in the parametric picker – you get the other stuff right first then pick up on things like cost and range preference (FR and FM have the same ESR’s anyway).

It's just not good enough to take a statement like the only thing that counts is ESR but I'm not going to tell you what I'm selling you - trust me I'm very experienced.

Martin/Satcure may well be jolly good chaps but they do not have divine or prophetic powers of wisdom as you suggest. Rather they want to sell stuff for more than they bought it for. That’s a perfectly honest thing to do. It is not honest to tell people that all other metrics bar their chosen one are meaningless.

Look at the datasheets yourself. Weigh up the prices. Look at hidden costs like postage. If someone doesn't let you see the evidence you may wind up fighting a war in Iraq. Don’t be so naïve.

Just in case you are still interested or, indeed, awake here are the RS part numbers of the caps that I bought to do the TV job.

571-858
756-7806
704-8046

This is the last time that I'll be writing to this thread.
 
The problem is that the original cap wasn't the correct (i.e. low ESR) type.

Oh, I assure you, the original cap was the correct type.

It was also a fraction of a penny cheaper than a Panasonic, Rubycon, Nippon Chemicon, or other reputable brand, one of which was likely specified by the original designer. Some clever chap up in procurement got a nice bonus for that and bought a new Mercedes.
 
It is not honest to tell people that all other metrics bar their chosen one are meaningless.
You missed the point completely. The other parameters are irrelevant in the context of a switch mode power supply where the capacitor is bombarded with fast-risetime high-current pulses. In this instance the overriding effect is internal heating.

Outside that context, a general purpose capacitor is fine.

In the case where a capacitor is bulging, it has suffered internal heating and that is where a LOW ESR capacitor is essential for long-term reliability.

To answer Monkeh's point: IF a capacitor is bulging, it is the wrong type. A correctly specified low ESR type would not suffer excessive internal heating. And, yes, I have seen instances where the part specified by the designer has been replaced by a clever "Purchasing" chappie with one of a lower specification to save money.

There's also another consideration: the electrolyte formula used in some electrolytics is a bad one and means that the ratings given are plain wrong. Do a search for "capacitor plague" if you don't already know about this. It means that you have to be really careful when selecting a supplier. Even "reputable" stockists have been caught out and ended up with a warehouse full of bad capacitors.
 
Would you all stop the "multiple quoting", please. It's unnecessary and makes the thread tedious to follow.

Sadly, lest we forget, some 20 days on the OP has not returned, he has either electrocuted himself or has ordered fictional parts from Satcure and his order has gone into the ether! :LOL:
 

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