What about the following product?
http://www.ductstore.co.uk/acatalog/Aluminium_Foil_Flexible.html
Available in 80mm diameter range?
Lifting flooring
- Thread starter spiidey
- Start date
What about the following product?
http://www.ductstore.co.uk/acatalog/Aluminium_Foil_Flexible.html
Available in 80mm diameter range?
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Final, final (final!) queries in grey below.
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2. Apply glue to 50mm of the strip and attach to underside of existing flooring
Yes -clamp in place ans then screw
Ok. How far apart should the screws be on this section? The joists are separated at c. 350mm centres.
3 or 4 they are only there to hold strip until glue dries
3 or 4 screws between the joists? So at approx 100mm centres?
3 screws at 79.581mm 4screws 56.318mm centres
Thank you.
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4. Apply glue to remaining 50mm of the 100mm strip and then lay new flooring, butted tight (?) against existing flooring?
Yes - Close to edge of existing and screw
How close should the new flooring be butted to edge of existing? Butted right against it or a gap of a couple of mm left?
Whatever any gap you can fill
I'm asking this more from a 'squeaking' point of view. If the new flooring is butted right against the existing, does this increase the probability of squeaking between the existing and new flooring? Or is there no difference between (a) butting them right next to each other and (b) leaving a, say, 5mm gap?
Squeaking is caused by movement, you have just glued and screwed them together.
So butt as close as possible and use acoustic sealant between the two?
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5. Use any screws to further grip/bond the 100mm strip to the existing, or new, or both sheets of, flooring?
As above
Another what if! I'm ok with screwing the existing flooring to the 100mm strip as the two can be clamped together which will prevent any dislodgement between the two when actually doing the screwing. However, if we then use screws to grip the 100mm strip to the new flooring, will the screw, when going through the new flooring and hitting the 100mm strip, break the bond between the 100mm strip and the new flooring?
What and sheer the screws as well?
That's not what I'm asking. I know the screw will continue through the 100mm strip without sheering itself off. I'm asking whether it will break the glue bond between the two and e.g. leave an air gap of e.g. 2-5mm that when footfall crosses the flooring the two boards will squeak against each other.
Think about what you have just posted
I don't think what I've just posted is nonsense (as you seem to be alluding!)! I'm concerned that we have two panels glued together, and then when screwing downwards (therefore in the direction of gravity and without the panels being clamped together), the 100mm panel (despite being glued to the new flooring) would come loose from the new flooring as a result of the downward (and gravity inducing) motion of the screwing.
With this in mind, should we be waiting for the glue (between the 100mm strip and the new flooring) to dry and THEN screwing down through the two? If so, what I'm asking is whether, if both of the glue segments HAVE dried, that subsequently screwing the 100mm strip and the new flooring together is (a) required, or (b) is not required as this would break (even slightly!) the glue bond between the 100mm strip and the new flooring, and therefore create more squeaking than if we hadn't screwed the two together at all.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
2. Apply glue to 50mm of the strip and attach to underside of existing flooring
Yes -clamp in place ans then screw
Ok. How far apart should the screws be on this section? The joists are separated at c. 350mm centres.
3 or 4 they are only there to hold strip until glue dries
3 or 4 screws between the joists? So at approx 100mm centres?
3 screws at 79.581mm 4screws 56.318mm centres
Thank you.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
4. Apply glue to remaining 50mm of the 100mm strip and then lay new flooring, butted tight (?) against existing flooring?
Yes - Close to edge of existing and screw
How close should the new flooring be butted to edge of existing? Butted right against it or a gap of a couple of mm left?
Whatever any gap you can fill
I'm asking this more from a 'squeaking' point of view. If the new flooring is butted right against the existing, does this increase the probability of squeaking between the existing and new flooring? Or is there no difference between (a) butting them right next to each other and (b) leaving a, say, 5mm gap?
Squeaking is caused by movement, you have just glued and screwed them together.
So butt as close as possible and use acoustic sealant between the two?
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
5. Use any screws to further grip/bond the 100mm strip to the existing, or new, or both sheets of, flooring?
As above
Another what if! I'm ok with screwing the existing flooring to the 100mm strip as the two can be clamped together which will prevent any dislodgement between the two when actually doing the screwing. However, if we then use screws to grip the 100mm strip to the new flooring, will the screw, when going through the new flooring and hitting the 100mm strip, break the bond between the 100mm strip and the new flooring?
What and sheer the screws as well?
That's not what I'm asking. I know the screw will continue through the 100mm strip without sheering itself off. I'm asking whether it will break the glue bond between the two and e.g. leave an air gap of e.g. 2-5mm that when footfall crosses the flooring the two boards will squeak against each other.
Think about what you have just posted
I don't think what I've just posted is nonsense (as you seem to be alluding!)! I'm concerned that we have two panels glued together, and then when screwing downwards (therefore in the direction of gravity and without the panels being clamped together), the 100mm panel (despite being glued to the new flooring) would come loose from the new flooring as a result of the downward (and gravity inducing) motion of the screwing.
With this in mind, should we be waiting for the glue (between the 100mm strip and the new flooring) to dry and THEN screwing down through the two? If so, what I'm asking is whether, if both of the glue segments HAVE dried, that subsequently screwing the 100mm strip and the new flooring together is (a) required, or (b) is not required as this would break (even slightly!) the glue bond between the 100mm strip and the new flooring, and therefore create more squeaking than if we hadn't screwed the two together at all.
Apply glue to half the strip, clamp in place to negate the effects of gravity and screw while clamps are in place and the glue is still fresh.
Remove clamps, screws are holding strip in place so it will not fall off. Repeat for other sections.
Allow glue to dry. Lay new floor and where it abuts the existing glue the above applied strips and screw new floor to strip whilst glue is fresh.
Cover floor with carpet and enjoy squeak free floor.
100mm has cross sectional area of around 7800sq/mm
80mm has cross sectional area of around 5000sq/mm
so about 63% of area for airflow.
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Thanks.
Is there any value, when laying the first row of the new flooring, to cut 100mm wide strips, and lay them first, butted against the existing flooring? This would then allow us to clamp the 100mm wide strip of the new flooring to the 100mm wide strip underneath to the new flooring, while the glue/screws are applied to both. All remaining flooring would be laid using the full 600mm width of each panel.
Or is it simply not a good idea to lay a relatively small strip of flooring?
Thoughts on suitability of the 80mm version? The pipes are serving a downstairs cloakroom/toilet - on for inflow of air and the other for outflow. There is no significant moisture build up in the toilet (no shower/bath) and a decent gap under the door (as the downstairs hallway/cloakroom are tiled) to allow some circulation of air.
No as depends on type and size of fan plus if the toilet has no window Building Regs require a minimum number of air changes.
Bad idea to lay narrow sheets.
Calculate number of sheet widths to cover floor and cut the first as wide as possible whilst allowing that the last board will also be as wide as possible.
In other words don't cut 1st sheet so you will end up with a narrow bit to end with.
Calculate number of sheet widths to cover floor and cut the first as wide as possible whilst allowing that the last board will also be as wide as possible.
In other words don't cut 1st sheet so you will end up with a narrow bit to end with.
Thank you.
Final Q on the 100mm strip section - are the following screws which we're using to screw the other boards into the joists ok for going through two sheets of chipboard on the 100mm strip section - or should we be using a different type of screw?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...Range/sd3339/Floor-Tite+Tri-Lock+Screw/p51501
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...Range/sd3339/Floor-Tite+Tri-Lock+Screw/p51501
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Anyone able to help with this? Laying the new flooring this weekend.
Laying the boards now.
If the tongue and groove joint between two boards sits directly over the middle of a joist, is it permissible to screw down through this join? Or should it be slightly to the side of the join (in which case it would be at the edge of the joist)?
If the tongue and groove joint between two boards sits directly over the middle of a joist, is it permissible to screw down through this join? Or should it be slightly to the side of the join (in which case it would be at the edge of the joist)?
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We recently had a leak from our shower which caused quite a bit of water to run across the floorboards. This has left a watermark on the floorboards under the shower tray and also on the floorboards in our hallway.
Should the floorboards where the watermark is be lifted?
Should the floorboards where the watermark is be lifted?
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