Lifting Herringbone Floor

[Nicksun]

Hi all,
I've got some lifted 9" by 2 3/4" t&g blocks, which i presume were stuck down with bitumen or tar and need to take them out to refix them(they aren't moving, they sound hollow when you tap them). The problem is they are away from the edge so can't be removed block by block(if you know what i mean). I was thinking of using a sharpened, wide bladed scraper to knock into the joints and cut the tongues off, enabling me to lift the blocks out. Does this idea sound reasonable or do you have a better option/s. Also what do you suggest sticking them back down with?

Cheers.

Nick.

 

[mac391]

You'll probably find that when you start to lift the blocks they will all come up!! and the bitumen that was used to stick them will come up with it along with bits of the concrete..... But, if you're lucky and its just a small patch then a well angled circular saw will cut the tongues or a fein multi master ( i use) will do it better. You can still re-use these blocks when cleaned up and fill the gaps left by cutting with sawdust and lecol. (i spelt it right WYL)

Hi all,
I've got some lifted 9" by 2 3/4" t&g blocks, which i presume were stuck down with bitumen or tar and need to take them out to refix them(they aren't moving, they sound hollow when you tap them). The problem is they are away from the edge so can't be removed block by block(if you know what i mean). I was thinking of using a sharpened, wide bladed scraper to knock into the joints and cut the tongues off, enabling me to lift the blocks out. Does this idea sound reasonable or do you have a better option/s. Also what do you suggest sticking them back down with?

Cheers.

Nick.

 

[Nicksun]

Thanks for replying Mac. I decided not to go down the circular saw route as i want to reuse the blocks. Anyhow, i went ahead with my plan and was as careful as possible cutting the tongues and then lifting out the loose blocks with a screw and pliers. I was probably lucky that there was enough of a gap to get the spatula into. I've used Synthaprufe to fix them back down as it's a similar product to the original adhesive. It has worked really well and i'm looking forward to the real test when i sand the floor. fingers crossed.

Cheers again.

Nick.

 

[mac391]

Hi Nick,
good luck with the sanding!! don't forget to keep the dust to mix with Lecol, i'm sure you'll need it to fill those gaps..

 

[WoodYouLike]

Make sure you collect clean dust, so empty the dust bag after the first sanding which contains old finish and dirt etc.
The finer the sanding dust, the better Lecol7500 works (collect dust from second sanding with grit 80)

More info on restoring original parquet flooring (including sanding and finishing tips) can be found here