lightwave on/off relay attached to 3 lights.

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folks,

im installing a relay in the loft for a strip light, and two outside lights and front and back of house, i already have the weather proof wire for the outside lights, my questions is

the strip light in the loft has an earth on it, im not sure about the 2 outside lights yet, i think they will have also, as they are metal cased. the unit in the below link is a remote on/off switch for 3 circuits im planning on connecting to the lights, but it does not have an earth, this means i will have to wire the earths from the 3 lights back around to the providing power ie the 230v input earth, can someone suggest what kind of wire joiners i would need to accomplish this, ive been on ebay but unable to see.

http://www.thesmartshop.co.uk/upload/pdf/JSJSLW825_3wayrelay_manual.pdf

http://www.lightupuk.co.uk/megaman-...slw825?zenid=69d3f118d55cb6583e748804d1d9a870

thanks

dave
 
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You will need to get the outside lights certificated

Get a Qualified Electrican to do the work.
 
i already have the weather proof wire for the outside lights
What do you mean by "weather proof wire"?

What sort of lights are they? What size (conductor cross sectional area) is the cable?



can someone suggest what kind of wire joiners i would need to accomplish this
A junction box of some sort.


ive been on ebay but unable to see
Don't buy electrical accessories on eBay.

"The 3-Way Control Relay is designed to switch mains rated resistive loads"

Are the lights resistive loads?
 
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Aah I see my words aren't in tune with your body fluids - my meaning was that if resistance is absent (open circuit) then no current.

Interesting play with words as no reistance could mean zero ohms or infinity ohms - each with different effects.

End of diversion. Please rejoin existing carriageway.
 
Whilst on the diversion, did we stop off anywhere and learn about the difference between the different types of impedance?
 
I have a tube strip light in loft and 2 led 1800 lumens flood lights outside to go on it. I thought all lights were resistive ? The cable is nyy-j hituf 1.5mm 3core outdoor cable
 
my meaning was that if resistance is absent (open circuit) ...
That would be if conductance is absent. If resistance is absent then you have a perfect conductor (aka a short circuit).

I thought all lights were resistive ?
Far from it.
Incandescent lights are (as near as makes no difference) resistive - but with a huge variation in resistance between cold and hot states (they can take an order of magnitude more current when cold then when up to temperature). Magnetic ballast flouros are inductive-ish but often have PFC correction capacitors - even with those, their actual impedance is quite complex and non-linear (tend to have a 'cresty' current waveform).
Once you get into CFLs, LEDs, and other types with electronic supplies, then the impedance is down to how good the electronic design is - ranging from "complex with a really nasty crest factor" for cheap and nasty designs to "almost resistive" for good designs with good input PFC correction (as required by standards but often ignored).
 
Incandescent (which im sure is a strip light ? )
This is an incandescent lamp:

26_2049425i.jpg


as is this:

LAX50GUF.JPG
.

This is an incandescent strip light lamp:

lig083-double-end-strip-light-60w-1-%28page-picture-large%29.jpg


And these aren't

t5-tubeSS.jpg


When you say "striplight", what do you mean?



But as for your switch and non-resistive loads - check with the maker what it's limits are for fluorescent lighting, LED drivers etc, and if they aren't forthcoming see if there's a user forum where you can ask. I'd be surprised if it couldn't handle your lights.
 
As a good rule of thumb, switches will handle one fifth of their restive rating for inductive loads.
 
In this case, the unit is designed for 1kW per channel resistive. It's hard to imagine it won't handle CFLs or LEDs of less than 100W.
The manual is p***s poor though, any manufacturer with a clue would quote ratings for both resistive and inductive loads - it'll be specified by the relay manufacturer (assuming they've used relays) :rolleyes:
If it clicks when a channel is switched on/off then there are relays - there'll be no problem.

It it's totally silent then they may have used solid state switching. Should be fine for small CFLs and LEDs, almost certainly OK for just one flouro strip, but I'm not sure I'd want more than one flouro on it without looking at the spec of the switching device used.
 
Worked a treat so far. One light attached on lightwsve box and remotely turns on and off. The boxes actually makes a clicking noise when each circuit turned on / off ;)
 

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