Lintel will not let me drill into it

[50plusabit]

I have moved to a 1950/60 house and am trying to put up curtain poles. I have tried 3 different drills and even bought a special tipped drill bit especially for concrete and cement, but the drill goes in so far then stops, and starts to make a screaming sound. I managed to get a blind in the bathroom by attaching it just under the ceiling, fine in bathroom but not in bedrooms and lounge. What am I doing wrong?

 

[roughcaster]

Try an SDS drill and bit.

Roughcaster.

 

[Peter1919]

What type of drill are you usings and what drill bit? You need to use a hammer drill with a masonary drill bit to drill inot the concrete or brick

 

[50plusabit]

Hi Peter
I am using a corded drill with hammer action, and purchased a drill bit for concrete, and still no joy. Should I be up level with the drill and leaning on it? Might be im a woman with less strength ? It makes a terrible noise and sounds as if its screaming.

 

[Chud]

might not the screaming noise be caused by trying to go through a steel or rebar?

 

[Hysteresis]

Many Lintels in the 50's were of re-enforced concrete construction. What may be happening is that you are getting through the concrete and then encountering a re-enforcing steel rod or bar. A masonry drill will not penetrate steel as it effectively has no cutting edge. The screaming noise you describe sounds very mush like you have indeed encountered a steel re-enforcing bar as that is exactly what happens when the masonry bit hits a steel rod, all you get is a friction scream.
What I would try is when you hit the re-enforcing bar, change your drill bit to a HSS drill to get through the steel, then replace again to a masonry drill bit after you get through the steel. It is pretty obvious when you get through the steel as the feel of the drill changes substantialy. You will probably blunt the HSS drill as you hit the concrete but so what it can be sharpened easily again. I have successfully used this technique many times and achieved an excellent plug grip.
Also remember you may hit a couple of steel bars depending on how deep you intend to drill.

 

[bengasman]

Only downside of that solution is that the lintel becomes UN-reinforced. Not recommended

 

[Hysteresis]

Only downside of that solution is that the lintel becomes UN-reinforced. Not recommended

The Drilling through of ONE re-enforcing bar will make no difference what so ever to the overall strength of the lintel. These things were over engineered in the 50's and 60's, but even so, one re-enforcement bar will be insignificant to the overall performance of the lintel.

 

[2scoops0406]

This happens all the time in my place. Yep, follow the advice given, I would bet money on the fact that you've hit a rebar (steel) you can often see a glint from the metal if you shine a torch into the hole.

Forget trying to get through it with a masonary drill, it ain't gonna happen. What I do is drill as far as I can into the lintel, as said, you can tell immediately when that as far a that's going to go, then I swap the masonary bit for a colbalt HSS bit, take the hammer action off, then slowly drill into the bar. Always worked so far, and the resulting fixture is very firm indeed. I really don't think you need to worry about damaging the integrity of the lintel.

Also use really good quality bits, personally I use Dewalt Extreme 2 for masonary, then Cobalt HSS for the steel.