Lion Car Batteries

Had a one year old car battery fail in the wifes car this week. Lion brand. I took it back to the retailer (Eurocarparts) (it had a three year guarantee on it) who were helpful and offered me a refund or a straight swap or a deal on an upgrade. For a bit more money they did me a good deal on a better quality battery.

The person on the counter did say that they've had a lot of this brand of battery back.

Just posting for info to other car DIYers who may be about to purchase a new battery. Avoid Lion brand.

I have a Lion Car battery that is approx 2.5 years old, and playing up so want to return it - but I bought it online from car parts for Less - but I can't find the receipt that comes with the battery - just the online order email - do you think this will be enough to get it replaced or refunded at a Eurocarparts?

What did you show the people at Euro car Parts as proof of purchase?
 
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"You can only return goods with a receipt.”
Yes and no. You usually only need proof of purchase when goods are faulty; so a bank statement or other proof can take the place of a receipt.
I found that on a Martin Lewis article in the Telegraph.
 
I have a Lion Car battery that is approx 2.5 years old, and playing up so want to return it - but I bought it online from car parts for Less - but I can't find the receipt that comes with the battery - just the online order email - do you think this will be enough to get it replaced or refunded at a Eurocarparts?

What did you show the people at Euro car Parts as proof of purchase?
Receipt
 
Not sure if the internet / email things I have could as a receipt - will have to look into it - BTW we've bought 3 Lion batteries in total for 2 different cars. In a 25+ year old Ford Fiesta they seem to work OK but in my newer MK2 Fiat Punto the battery seemed to drain quite quickly when the car wasn't being used (The Fiat does have extra draw at rest like remote unlocking) - I've also tested 2 of the 2+ year old Lion batteries on their own just sitting in our hallway and they seem to lose charge over a fairly short amount of time all by themselves fairly easily with nothing connected to them.

Now replaced the Lion battery with a Bosch Battery which I've read is made by Varta and it seems to be holding its charge for much longer than the Lion batteries.
 
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Yuassa are the best you can buy imho, and surprisingly Halfords sell them at reasonable price.

Varta was OEM fitment on our Kuga (Enhanced Flood Battery).

I put a Bosch Silver in as a replacement, (couldn't find a Yuassa in time) found out a while later that Varta actually manufacturer the Bosch batteries, small world!.
 
Fitted a lion battery in my old Peugeot 406 in 2012, it got replaced last month after nearly 8 years!
 
May be the thread will also last that long, I would say more down to luck, and I have had an Exide 2 volt battery fitted to a radio to work valve heaters last 25 years, but some times you wonder if really the battery at fault.

So 3 year old Jaguar XE would not start, switch off everything one could wait 10 minutes try again and it started, garage (dealer) said battery £250 new VRLA battery and no more problems, so would seem the battery, however we have a caravan so kept old battery, charged up, then left for 9 months, we were moving house, then put on charge again expecting to be discharged, but very quickly charger reported charged.

Daughter was doing face painting so used to power lights, all day no problem, not been put back on car, but battery seems A1. Yet after changing no more problems with car.

So was the battery really faulty? I really don't know, to my mind when a battery is on it's way out, it fails to start car when cold, often it tries, but does not turn it over fast enough, by this battery failed to start hot engine and did not even try, but cranked cold engine OK.

I still think it was engine management fault, but how to prove is hard.
 
I fairly accurate assessment of car batteries, if you have access to them is to feel the weight, the heaviest battery of the same size should be the best one with more plate material - unless they've filled the bottom up with stones of course.:(

One of my jobs when I started work was charging 2v accumulators

Peter
 
There is a big difference between active material and weight, the AGM (absorbed glass mat) also called VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) battery is still lead acid like the flooded type, but it preforms far better, the problem is of course they can dry out, and no way to top up, so today batteries are put in the boot not under the bonnet with a hot engine.

It has also changed the way batteries are charged, early cars had a free wheel on the dynamo and an adjustable brush to regulate charge rate, on turning on the ignition the dynamo would motor, and then once engine started the engine would drive it faster and charge the battery, and the driver monitored the charge rate with an ammeter.

Since that time the batteries have not changed that much, but the charging systems have, the cut out and regulator took the control from the driver, but a typical two bobbin regulator was set to an open voltage of 16 volt, not that it ever got that high when connected to a battery, but volts were set high to compensate for when engine was just ticking over, there were some specials, bus dynamos had bucking coils to destroy the field as they were designed to charge at low engine revs.

Then the alternator, mainly three phase, some French ones were single phase, but the diode (also used with some dynamo regulators in later years instead of cut out) stopped any back feed, most were switch mode controlled, i.e. on/off not up/down and relied on the battery to even out the charge, most electronic control although some Japanese cars had mechanical regulators, and most were voltage only controlled although the AC203 used on buses had a current control, and they would start charging as the same revs as old dynamo, but could rev higher, so fitting a smaller pulley resulted in charge at tick over.

Only in last few years has there been a change, the stop/start technology and switching the alternator on only on over run, means the flooded lead acid battery can no longer do what is required, although back in the 50's we saw ideas to stop spillage and by the 70's there were maintenance free batteries, the AGM battery was used in mobility scooters, intruder alarms, and stair lifts, but not in cars, weight was not really a problem with cars, so only in last 10 years have we seen cars fitted with AGM batteries, used like the old flooded battery they should last longer, but used with stop start not so sure.

Even swapping a battery, it was simply a case of connecting a battery across terminals so as not to lose radio code, and fit new battery, but today need to connect a PC to the car and tell the cars computer that a new battery has been fitted, as the computer decides when the battery needs charging, and the alternator output is computer controlled.

So short trips and engine will not stop at junctions, only when the computer decides it has enough charge will that happen, and in the main battery held at 80% charge and every so often fully charged so it will not sulphate. So today you need to tell the computer what size battery has been fitted, as well as telling it one has been changed so the info supplied with the battery is important. If a battery is really 60 Ah and you tell computer it is 100 Ah it may get wrong amount of charge.

So you would need to in most cases get the battery changed by some one who has the ability to plug a laptop into the car, even the RAC man today has a laptop, driving around with a few tools in motorcycle panniers has gone. So has changing a battery DIY style, or in many cases the local motorist shop.

So when comparing makes, it has to be like for like including setting up car on the PC, and I have not seem any Lion batteries in my local Jaguar dealership so I suspect they don't have the info to set up car using a cheap battery. OK in my old Honda Jazz the batteries can be compared, but even if I wanted I could not really fit a Lion battery in wife's Jaguar XE.

Things have moved on.
 
Anyways to give some feedback - I've bought at least 3 or 4 LION batteries over the years (I think 4)
2 have gone in my own car and I believe 2 in my mother's car. My mother's car is very basic 25+ year old ford Fiesta and no real issues in her car.

However my car is 19 year old Fiat Punto with a lot more electrical things like electric windows, electric power steering and remote unlocking - used to often find the LION Batteries went flat quite quickly when the car wasn't being driven - However since buying a Bosch battery (which I believe is really made by Varta) started every time so far.
 
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