Liquid Screed drying time - Fixing metal studs to floor

[Steveb21]

UFH pipes and Liquid screed at approx. 50mm to be poured in the next week or so.
I then plan to build stud walls using metal studs. The tracks for the metal stud will need to be fixed in the floor and ceiling.

Questions:

How long should I wait for the screed to dry out before fixing the floor plates for the metal stud? 30 days? (if so, this is going to delay me carrying on with works!)
Would glue fixing work? Has any one had any experience with gluing metal plates to a screed floor?
Once the stud is fixed and up, is there a chance the UFH will expand and move the screed'd floor? If so, the metal frame will not allow it to move as it will be fixed from floor to ceiling. Do i need to be worried about cracks etc here?

Other alternative is to build the stud frame first, onto the concrete slab and then screed after ensuring the screed does not touch the plasterboard.

 

[kp00110]

Is it not possible to put the bottom channels of stud in before UFH and screed? so you do not risk puncturing UFH pipes when installing channel? For fixing time I would say myself only a day or so after screed has set you can install fixings - stud fixings will be working in shear rather than anchor so aslong as you dont overtighten and pull out failure the screed. As for cracking from screed expanding dont think that would happen but you can get deflection head details for metal stud walls that allows for this.

 

[Steveb21]

The completed stud work will be 100mm away from the walls. I then plan on installing the UFH pipes a further 100mm away from stud walls.

Area in question is a basement, hence the metal stud route. I do not want to compromise the tanked walls by using conventional timber framework.

 

[kp00110]

Makes sense to me then to do the stud walls, the the UFH, then the Screed?

 

[Steveb21]

Would this work.

If I lay standard bricks (76mm height, 102.5mm depth) along the walls around the perimeter of the basement (where the metal studs will eventually attached on top)
Install DPM and perimeter insulation
I can then use this as a border area to install the UFH pipes and for the screed to flow into, up to 50/55mm
The screed can then dry
I can then attach the metal floor plates to the bricks I initially laid - and build up my metal stud work


This way the metal stud work is not fixed to the screed, so any movement should not matter further down the line. I can also carry on with the works rather than waiting for the screed to fully dry.