Loft hatch to take my weight, any ideas please.

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Hi folks.

I was wondering if any one had any experience in making/using a loft hatch that you can walk on. It's approx 0.8m square.
Basically I might put up a model railway in my loft and don't want to fall out. I was thinking of a guardrail around the hole but if I can cover it it would be better.
Maybe reinforcing the lip/lining with 1" square screwed into existing hatch lining and joists as possible. then making a new hatch with thicker wood. Either 22mm er, T5 wicks floor boards as the rest of the loft or 1" thick pine planks. Possibly hinged, heavy duty/strong think hinges. lol. Not sure, like the ones on my side gate.
I think it can't be to hard to make but the support of and the weight bearing i'm unsure of atleat.

Thanks Arthur
 
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could you not make another hatch that sits inside the 1 you have already?
run a stop around the lining,hinge the new hatch so when your in the attic space you fold the new hatch down into the old hole?
 
usual solution floor the loft
cut the planks half way across the edging timbers all round the hatch
hinge to the top
3 or 4 batons screwed underneath
how wide and how long is the hatch
 
Hi ya. Thanks for the replies. It's 80cm x 80cm. The loft is boarded with wicks 22mm t5 board upto th loft hatch hole. The existing hatch sits on 1/2" x 3/4." baton.
 
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to keep it light get some 6x1" par pine from your local wood yard this will be21x143 lay 6 boards side by side mark the width on the boards mark in an inch each side cut 3 batons to this length and fix between the lines and 2" in from the ends
you could use the offcut for the central baton as it will be about 55mm wide
the other2 can be a bit off 143mm ripped down the middle

so you could get it all from a 2.4m and a 3.3m length
or alternatively 2x2.4 and 2.1 or 2.4m 3x1 for the batons
and for the lipping 3x1[21x69mm] or if not enough space 2x1"par [21x44mm]
 
Thanks for that. Hope to get to that this week. Wicks visit tomorrow. I just need an idea on hinges if any one can help.

Thanks
Arthur
 
strap or "T" hinges are easiest but will give a slight trip hazard if you have no covering on the floor
you will need 2 heavy duty hinges or 3 medium duty tool station or screwfix will probably be cheaper than the diy sheds
 
I was just gonna paint the brick work with masonary paint to brighten it up. Can I paint the chimney breast do you know. We have a gas fire down stairs so I can imagine it will get warm.

Thanks Arthur
 
i just emulsioned everything in sight to reflect the light and bind the dust
water based will be fine but would avoid painting whilst warm incase it dries to quickly and cracks although i doubt that would happen in real life but don't know
 

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