Looking for Boilermate III instruction manual

[RichThompson]

Hello,

I've just moved into a house built in 1999 and fitted with a Potterton Suprima 30 boiler and Boilermate III storage tank. I've just had the new PCB fitted to the boiler to fix the lockout problem and all seems fine (hot water and radiators work).

I tried to get on British Gas's Homecare 200 scheme to be covered for any problems with the boiler and storage tank but they wouldn't offer it - allegedly due to the time it would take to source new parts for the tank and also that some of the boiler components are fitted behind the tank which makes them hard to get at.

Like I say, all seems ok but I am slightly worried at some of the sounds coming from the tank - notably a knocking noise coming from a/the pump when no demand for heat or hot water. I've read about people getting massive gas and electric bills due to the system not going into standby mode. As such I would like to see an instruction manual for the Boilermate III to see if there is anything I can check or adjust. Due to it's age there is nothing on Gledhill's website and I cant find a manual anywhere else on the web.

The tank probably needs a service but only really want to call someone out as a last resort - not sure what a service would cost approx.

Many thanks,

Richard

 

[nickso]

theres not anything to service on the boilermate really. the only thing to do is put inhibitor in it to prevent sludge....probably too late now if its not been done before now.

the boilermate is always switched on and will replenish the hot water store whenever it likes....not just when you turn on a tap or use the heating.

unlucky about BG....they can be handy for boilermates as it takes a long time to drain and refill to replace pumps if the valves are passing (most are).

the boilermate should tell you on the front how to set it up.

 

[RichThompson]

Thanks for the reply .

The sound from the storage tank which worries me just sounds like something turning on (with a thump) one second and off the next and so on for a period of time until it stops for a while and then comes back. The pump is very hot to touch - but I have the boiler set to max because it says so on the storage tank. With no knowledge of these systems I can only think that the on/off thing cant be good for it - but then again maybe its normal for the way its installed (link from boiler to pump). Just thought an instruction manual might shine some light on it.

Question: does the Boilermate III have a summer/winter setting? I'm tempted to have a look inside the white box on the wall next to the tank to see if I can reduce the temperature of the hot water.

Thanks,

Richard

 

[nickso]

im trying to remember but as i dont see that many BM3's its difficult, doesnt it have contols on the front of the cylinder to control the store temperature? the BM2 has a dial but i think the BM3 had some sort of LED and button affair.

 

[RichThompson]

Yes there is an led display with a cover over it, so I'll have a look at that. Would be nice to turn the water temperature down a bit if possible.

Thanks,
R

 

[ChrisR]

HW temp - isn't it controlled by a thermostatic mixing valve - which frequently fail to HW only?
Something like:

 

[g60bv]

always make sure you use plenty of quality inhibitor. and you have to over dose it on those. because of the quantity of water in the system is much more than a 'normal' house.. bg should be able to take it onto a contract. the boiler is service listed, the only question is the boilermate. if it splits they can take 3 weeks to get one made or the option is to pay for an upgrade to an unvented, magaflo or range. both 25 years warrentee etc.
also are the pumps and valve in good nick. if there was obvious damage they may have used that as the get out. other wise it is just the same as many houses. we have huge estates which use the same set up as you've described. and they are on bg contracts.

 

[Softus]

HW temp - isn't it controlled by a thermostatic mixing valve - which frequently fail to HW only?
Something like:

They do use these valves, but it's a blending valve that serves only DHW, not a diverter that affects the CH.

 

[ChrisR]

Er, yes, that was in response to

see if I can reduce the temperature of the hot water.

 

[Softus]

Quite right Chris - I apologise. I hadn't spotted those words amongst the OP's second post.

 

[RichThompson]

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[nickso]

always make sure you use plenty of quality inhibitor. and you have to over dose it on those. because of the quantity of water in the system is much more than a 'normal' house.. bg should be able to take it onto a contract. the boiler is service listed, the only question is the boilermate. if it splits they can take 3 weeks to get one made or the option is to pay for an upgrade to an unvented, magaflo or range. both 25 years warrentee etc.
also are the pumps and valve in good nick. if there was obvious damage they may have used that as the get out. other wise it is just the same as many houses. we have huge estates which use the same set up as you've described. and they are on bg contracts.

they failed it for access.


i would be careful of messing with the mixer valves the plastic inside gets brittle and snaps off leaving a slug of hot then stone cold. if you try to adjust a healthy one it can break the insides.....ive had this a few times now when ive had no choice but to adjust it.

 

[RichThompson]

New question then: How can I reduce the temperature of the hot water?

When I turbed it off and removed the front cover I couldnt see anything that looked like a thermostat.

R

 

[g60bv]

you cant it preset on the driver gt155 board. thats what the T shapped mixer valve is for.