BoilerMate III replacement

Unfortunately the Thermal Store salesman has once again ruined the thread. I have over the years proved him wrong on so many subject it quite frankly gets boring. I'm not gonna argue with a troll, ive got better things to do with my time.
 
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Here's the full quote from the Gledhill website. I think you were being a little selective.

I was not. It was clear what Gledhill were putting across. Their products have been ripped out for no reason whatsoever because of pure ignorance. Jobbing plumbers just did not understand something so simple. Gledhill are aware of this. Gledhill made a one-box that you connected the CH and DHW pipe to. Simple. It did it all using a pcb.

GT you seem to have a lot of knowledge about heating systems and thermal stores in particular.

Seem? I clearly do.

I think you need to find a better way to get your points across. If what you say is correct and thermal stores are better than unvented systems then you should be able to make those arguments logically using facts and without having to denigrate contributors on this forum by calling them "jobbing plumbers" or "ignorant". Shouting down people who do not agree with you does not help your arguments, it actually detracts from them.

Thermal stores are not a direct comparison to unvented cylinders, which the jobbing plumbers think. They are different unless a DHW only version is used, they are comparable. Read the comparison by Gledhill, who also make unvented cylinders.

You should read the posts. The threads are littered with insults and just plain ignorant put downs of what I am putting across. How many posts have said I should be banned? Banned for showing the jobbing plumbers up! I will put them down when they repeatedly put across outdated solutions and nonsense. Which is all too frequent.

Most of the people here are not engineers or widely experienced. Their experience is within a limited scope. When they read something outside of this scope they resort to insults. Many of them clearly just picked up the trade and are not educated in heating at all. The Corgi ones have had small courses.

To survive these jobbing plumbers only do what they know will work. The "I always do this" types. Whether its is the best solution in expense, running costs, space saving is not taken into account. Most are not ware of the latests product on the market. Look at the tripe about combis. How many times do you read that you can't use more than one tap at a time? Most have never come across a high flow combi.

They go on a forum and communicate with highly educated and experienced men, who in real life would not talk to them for more than a few minutes dismissing them as "jobbers". They say, "I have been doing this game for 20 years". Which means two years experience repeated 10 times.

What is sad is that people come on asking advice and believe the nonsense these jobbers put out, go away and do what they write.

I myself am not in the plumbing trade and am here to learn. I would like to read reasoned logical arguments supported by facts and will use whatever information I can glean to help me to decide what to replace my BM II with.

All the best.

You imply I do not give facts. I am full of them and give figures.
 
Unfortunately the Thermal Store salesman has once again ruined the thread. I have over the years proved him wrong on so many subject it quite frankly gets boring. I'm not gonna argue with a troll, ive got better things to do with my time.

What fun!

1. Over the years? I have only been here for two months. Do you see Cybermen climb through your bedroom window as well?

2. I am not a salesman.

3. Proved men wrong? I have made you look dumb over the past few months.

4. Your idea of a ruined thread is you being made a fool of.
 
Lets keep the arguments aside please :)

An update:

Had another heating engineer who suggested fixing the BM3 (rather going for a new unit) by drawing a new cold water feed from the mini expansion tank to the bottom of the BM3 unit to circumvent the blocked sludge and also to replace the motorised diverter valve. The quoted cost for both jobs including spares is around £400.

Now I have 3 queries:

1. Is this the right thing to do?

2. The bottom of the top mini expansion tank contains plenty of green mucky sludge and I guess this has blocked the cold water inlet. Should this be thoroughly sucked out before installing the new external cold water feed & diverter value?

3. When & where should the inhibitor be added?

Many thanks in advance.

Eds :D
 
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Lets keep the arguments aside please :)

An update:

Had another heating engineer who suggested fixing the BM3 (rather going for a new unit) by drawing a new cold water feed from the mini expansion tank to the bottom of the BM3 unit to circumvent the blocked sludge and also to replace the motorised diverter valve. The quoted cost for both jobs including spares is around £400.

Now I have 3 queries:

1. Is this the right thing to do?

I have read that this is a valid strategy for dealing with a blocked feed pipe on the boilermates. My BM-II will probably require something similar one day. Personally I would go for it - you may get a few more years out of the BM-III

While he's at it, why not have him look at whether the plate heat exchanger needs descaling?

Sid
 
Lets keep the arguments aside please :)

An update:

Had another heating engineer who suggested fixing the BM3 (rather going for a new unit) by drawing a new cold water feed from the mini expansion tank to the bottom of the BM3 unit to circumvent the blocked sludge and also to replace the motorised diverter valve. The quoted cost for both jobs including spares is around £400.

Now I have 3 queries:

1. Is this the right thing to do?

I have read that this is a valid strategy for dealing with a blocked feed pipe on the boilermates. My BM-II will probably require something similar one day. Personally I would go for it - you may get a few more years out of the BM-III

While he's at it, why not have him look at whether the plate heat exchanger needs descaling?

Sid

Thanks Sid. :)

Job done today. Apart from the external pipe work, needed to replace a 'near' faulty sensor & diverter value. Heat exchanger was changed 2 years ago and hence didnt look at it. About £165 in parts & £310 in labour for approx 2 hours work (phew...). Time to change my trade now... :rolleyes:
 

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