Loop in loop out

[ColJack]

for "loop in at switch" you have 3 cables ( 2 at end of run )..
feed in, feed out, and switch..

these cables all contain one brown wire, one blue wire and one bare copper wire.

the 3 bare copper wires are sleeved green and yellow and go together either in a terminal in the back of the box ( plastic ), a lug on the back of the box ( metal ) or to the earth lug of any metal faceplate switch ( or a flylead from the lug at the back of a metal box ).

the blues all go together in one terminal block in the back of the box ( do NOT tape this up.. )

the brown from the feed in and feed out go to the COM on the switch
the brown from the light goes to the L1 on the switch..
if your switches have different markings then come back and ask..

 

[cardiy]

Thanks flameport ang coljack,why is it not advisable to tape the terminal block

 

[ColJack]

it serves no purpose and just gets sticky over the years... and falls off anyway..

 

[flameport]

Tape over a terminal block isn't needed - the block is already insulated (being made from plastic).
Tape deteriorates fairly quickly, resulting in a disgusting sticky mess.

It's the same reasons why sleeving should be used on switched lives instead of tape.

Another thing when using a terminal block - strip the wire to 2x the usual length, and put all of the wires into the same end of the block, so that both screws hold all of the wires.

 

[ColJack]

it would do that if you put them opposite sides too if you strip them double length..
obviously make sure that the copper doesn't protrude from the other side of the terminal block..
( a hot melt glue gun is good for this )

 

[tSpark]

Untitled

• tSpark
• 18 Mar 2010
• 1

I find wago fits pretty handy for loop in at switchs, which in my opinion is the way forward,

 

[sparkwright]

it's worth remembering that a lighting circuit can be a combination of both looping the switches and looping the roses. Really whatever is going to make the job easier.

The rose loop-in method is still used, usually on new work where ordinary pendants have been specified.
It's nearly always used on an average re-wire too, as existing switch conduits are too narrow for anything else.

2 way switching can still be obtain by feeding the switches.

Sometimes having a neutral present in the switch box can make future alterations easier, eg adding 5 amp sockets, outside lighting etc.

When wiring for one switch to control two lights it is a good idea to run two separate cables, one going to one light, the other to the other light.
This means only one cable to connect up at each light which can make the installing easier; but more importantly means the switch can be replaced for a 2 gang switch, meaning the two lights can be controlled separately.

 

[cardiy]

Thanks guys.