Lukewarm central heating on Intergas Rapid 32

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Ok to test the pump etc properly put the boiler into test mode by pressing the spanner and + at the same time. it should come up with ‘h’ on the display and the boiler should run hard for 20 minutes.

lets us know if the flow pipe gets hot…
 
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Ok to test the pump etc properly put the boiler into test mode by pressing the spanner and + at the same time. it should come up with ‘h’ on the display and the boiler should run hard for 20 minutes.

lets us know if the flow pipe gets hot…
Brilliant advice, I should have read the manual in more details!

After a few minutes, the flow pipe gets extremely hot. The boiler reaches 80 degrees and then shuts down, which I believe is the way the test is meant to work (note that at this point, both zone valves are closed, the flow goes through the bypass valve).

Next step; I opened one of the zone valve, the temperature went down which forced the boiler to kick-in again (still in test mode). Then the radiators started becoming hot as they should be. After another 10 minutes, the boiler reached again 80 degrees. The temperature went down to 64 degrees and boiler kick-in again. I assume this is all part of the test.

I am now trying the same test on zone 2.
 
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Still in test mode, zone 2 behave in the same manner in zone 1, ie:
- it takes around 10 min for the boiler to reach 80 degrees (all radiators from the zone are warm)
- then the boiler shuts down and temperature goes down to 64 degrees in a matter of seconds
- the boiler kicks back in and reaches 80 degrees in a minute or so
- then shuts down and the cycle continues

Is the above behaviour a normal one?
 
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It would seem that everything is working ok on test.

The results you have usually indicate a dirty heat exchanger on the heating side.
 
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The Intergas engineer is coming tomorrow, they believe it might actually be s/w related (ie. a bug). I will update the thread after the engineer's visit.

Hmmm they have been using that software since 2015. Would be a little late for a bug to rear it's head now...

Will be interesting to see what Gary says
 
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What about a faulty s2 return sensor?
Had a 40sb which had worked faultless for a year suddenly decide it wouldn't go above 40c. I just swapped the sensor and all worked again.
 
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What about a faulty s2 return sensor?
Had a 40sb which had worked faultless for a year suddenly decide it wouldn't go above 40c. I just swapped the sensor and all worked again.
It would be a possibility if the hot water had problems as well. As it doesn't I'd say it was very unlikely
 
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The verdict from Gary (the Intergas engineer) is that the issue is due to contaminated water in the system.

To be honest I am completely gutted, every single components in my installation are only 10 months old except one single radiator (which I flushed with a garden hose before installing it). It is a brand new install as I had storage heaters before that. Disappointed that a single radiator could bring a boiler down.

I did a power flush in the past and it was painful, any tips to make my life easier before I hire the kit?

Below is a photo of the pipework, thinking of connecting the flusher in lieu of the bypass valve, and will flush the boiler separately from the central system.

Queen Mary - Pipework 2.jpg
 
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You can't make that up... so he's suggesting it's all from the 'old' radiator?

I'm amazed something like that could have this effect... have you had a butchers at the filter?
I would have expected this would have caught any that shouldn't be there.

Can't help on the flushing, but will keep reading.

Good luck (y)
 
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Either the heat exchanger has a coating in the S1 area or possibly it’s a faulty casting.

They all carry test kits, did he take a sample of system water for analysis?
 
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