mahogany door prep

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I nee some advise on the best way to prep the mahogany front door on our house before i paint is black gloss,
what grade paper do i need to use to remove the old mahogany stain, do i fill in any cracks in the door before i apply a primer coat or after, what is the best product for filling any cracks, and what is the best primer for this job?
 
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Seeing as the door has already been stained you should not use a specific wood primer, you could however use a primer/undercoat or undercoat. Using around 100 grit sand down taking care not to breakthrough the stain then apply one coat of either of the above, then when dry fill any areas that are required sand and apply another coat of one of the above. When dry lightly sand and apply your top coat.

Dec
 
TheDEC
A neighbour who is a painter and a bit noisy questioned me yesterday as to what colour i was repainting the door he said i would need to use aluminium undercoat in case the old stain bleeds through standard undercoat, is this correct?
What do you mean by "taking care not to breakthrough the stain"
 
The current stain would have to be in extremely good condition to over-paint. If it has signs of cracking or peeling I'd get rid of it. BTW, nothing is going to bleed through black.
 
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The Aluminium paint is not an undercoat it's a specific wood primer, used to counteract resinous bleed and to seal such surfaces as Bitumen and old Creosoted applications. I think before I offer more advice can you tell me if the door has only recieved a base stain or combination stain and varnish.

If it is the former the door will appear dull in appearance and be void of any sheen.

Dec
 
Firstly thanks for the pic, sometimes it always wise to prolong a thread a little in order that the correct advice is offered, your noisy painter has given you good advice.

You will need to remove as much of the existing stain as you can looking at the pics around 80 grit should be fine then you can apply your Aluminium primer, this type of primer will when dry offer a slight grey to blue tinge but can easily be covered with an undercoat. With regard to fillers any brand name exterior filler would be fine.

Dec
 
It's worth knowing that a black painted door, if it faces the sun, will get very hot. This causes the panels to move, whick leads to cracks in the paint, especially where the panels are let into the stiles. It will be worse if the paint is thick here. The movement tends to make the unpainted edges of the panels show when they shrink away from their groove or moulding.

It's a shame to paint a fine hardwood door, though I prefer a semi-gloss stain. Not keen on Sadolin as it is somewhat opaque and dull so it does not highlight the beauty of the wood.

BTW I like aluminium wood primer, it is useful for hard, oily or resinous woods, and surfaces that have been burned off, and seems to me to be very long-lived and weather-resistant.
 
Thanks so far for all your advise.
I started to sand the door and frame tonight with 80 and 100 grit paper a slow and boring job but whenever the old stain is removed Im not so sure now that i will paint the door black gloss as i do like a front door stained, and should the door get marked or scratched the stain will not show up any marks as much as the black gloss will and i fear that the black paint will get scratched with people coming and going.
So what brands and colours of stain do i have?

I will be using Dulux weather shield masonry paint.
The new colour of the house will be , main walls Woodsmoke, window sills bottom of the house and the coping's on the garden walls will be Spice, front wrought iron gate along with the side wooden tongue and groove gate, back door and outside shed door will all be painted Black gloss, does this colour scheme sound okay?
Oh the windows and guttering are white PVC
 
It is never wise for a Decorator to offer advice with regard to a colour scheme even less wise if he is not really aware of the layout, yet the colours of your choice would'nt in anyway clash so if your happy with them then go for it. Regarding the choice of stain take a look at Sikkens, just bear in mind that an opaque system will tend to mask the grain whilst a transclucent system will highlight it.

Dec
 
Cheers TheDec.
As the door has previously been stained would i be better off going for the opaque system as some of the old stain is ingrained in the wood grain, also would it be okay to use paint stripper on the decorative parts of the door as i am afraid of sanding some bits of it flat.
 
As I said an opaque system will tend to mask and a translucent system will enhance, so if you choose the latter then all remaining stain has to be removed. Only you can make that decision, therefore I am not going to offer my advice on choice, yet my opinion and preference would lean toward a transclucent system.

If you wish you can use a either a paint stripper or hot air gun to help remove the stain from what you call the decorative areas, there is also a tool called a shavehook that will also help to remove the stain. Have a go and post another pic and you have my word that I will offer you the advice regarding best product choice. We have a saying down here don't spoil the ship for a appeth of tar.

Dec
 
TheDec
I left it too late tonight to take a photo as it is now dark, i will do it tomorrow, got some of the door stripped could i use wire wool dipped in white spirits to remove all the wee wee bits of stain that are left behind on the moulded pieces on the door dont really want to use sand paper in case i rub any rounded pieces of wood flat?
 
Last one for me tonight, I am not at this time going to offer advice with regard to the use of wire wool and the apparent chance of rust staining if a water based stain was to be used for I feel it to be not important, so by all means use the wire wool yet the spirit be will be of no value. The most important factor here is to remove all traces of the existing coating so that the application of a transclucent finish will both highlight the natural grain of the timber and give you a front door to be proud of.

Dec
 
In my experience old Sadolin goes very dull and dry, and is not too difficult to get off. It will be quicker if you use a coarser paper but you may then need to smoth it back. After sanding smooth you might like to use a Colron wood dye to emphasise the mahogany colour and equalise any faded patches.

I find that if you try to use a dark tinted stain, the finish looks more patchy and hides the grain more than if you colour the door first, then use a light coloured finish. I am not a pro so The Dec may comment more. I use the Dulux stuff, I think it is called Woodsheen.

Remember to treat the top, bottom and sides very thoroughly as they tend to get missed and this is where damp can get in.
 

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