mahogany door prep
- Thread starter bikeit
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Well not perhaps ready to accept a trancsclucent system just yet, but you have worked wonders with that door. To apply the above mentioned system all traces of the existing coating will need to be removed, on saying that you are nearly there. One more point if you glance to the extreme right where your letterbox is it looks like you have sanded across the grain of the outer edge so you will need to remove those abrasive lines by sanding with the grain.
This type of prep is often so difficult to both explain and achieve, yet you are almost there, so from now on sand only in the direction of the grain and remove all of the existing coating, you are looking to achieve a uniform texture and you really are very near to doing so. You have worked wonders!
Dec
This type of prep is often so difficult to both explain and achieve, yet you are almost there, so from now on sand only in the direction of the grain and remove all of the existing coating, you are looking to achieve a uniform texture and you really are very near to doing so. You have worked wonders!
Dec
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I think I can see some dark staining of the timber near the botton of the door where water has got through the old, deteriorated coating. This is sometimes a fungal stain and might go quite deep, so difficult to sand away. It is possible to bleach it out, but if you take my tip about Colron it will probably not show.
I always use Cuprinol Clear on outdoor hardwood before oiling or staining to prevent fungus or insect attack, it also seems to prevent blue stain.
p.s. a hardwood weather bar will look better than that brass finish strip. Treat and stain it before fixing for best results; also fix it with a few brass or stainless screws from inside the door, so there are no screw heads or holes visible on the outside.
I always use Cuprinol Clear on outdoor hardwood before oiling or staining to prevent fungus or insect attack, it also seems to prevent blue stain.
p.s. a hardwood weather bar will look better than that brass finish strip. Treat and stain it before fixing for best results; also fix it with a few brass or stainless screws from inside the door, so there are no screw heads or holes visible on the outside.
the makers say, dip a clean, lint free rag into some Colron in a saucer or similar and rub it on. You do not need to slosh on enough to make the surface wet.
I am too lazy and impatient to do that, so I use a soft paintbrush, fairly dry, and rub off any excess after it has dried. It has the consistency of ink or water. You can get it in numerous colours, such as mahogany, rosewood, teak etc. IMO the mahogany is too red so I have more recently used the rosewood one. It is just a dye in a sprit base, there is no paint or varnish or anything. It is supposed to give added resistance to sunlight. You have to use varnish, oil or stain on top to protect the wood. Keep shaking or stirring it ort the colour sinks the the bottom.
If you are going to use Cuprinol preserver, or sand the timber, or clean it with white spririt, do all that first, otherwise you will clean off the dye or leave it patchy.
There are own-brands, and water based dyes available as well, probably cheaper. They might or might not be as good, I always use Colron on anything important.
I am too lazy and impatient to do that, so I use a soft paintbrush, fairly dry, and rub off any excess after it has dried. It has the consistency of ink or water. You can get it in numerous colours, such as mahogany, rosewood, teak etc. IMO the mahogany is too red so I have more recently used the rosewood one. It is just a dye in a sprit base, there is no paint or varnish or anything. It is supposed to give added resistance to sunlight. You have to use varnish, oil or stain on top to protect the wood. Keep shaking or stirring it ort the colour sinks the the bottom.
If you are going to use Cuprinol preserver, or sand the timber, or clean it with white spririt, do all that first, otherwise you will clean off the dye or leave it patchy.
There are own-brands, and water based dyes available as well, probably cheaper. They might or might not be as good, I always use Colron on anything important.
you're on very dodgy ground staining this door given the method of preparing the wood. Any sanding by definition abrades the wood and unless the sanding is done methodically and equally all over the door , the net result will be a wooden door that will have uneven rates of absorbtion when it's stained meaning some areas will stain darker than others and the result will tend to be blotchy in colour. If you use Colron which is oil based, the effect will be worse. For finishing wood to a clear or stained finish, sanding is one of the worst ways of stripping the finish. A translucent finish will work better as the pigment in the finish will even out any discolouration in the wood as the coats build up and obviously a painted finish will be fine...
Now don't give up now, firstly I would not recommend the use of Colron to offer a tranclucent finish and enhance the natural grain take a look at these two products. Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus and Cetol THB Plus and see what you think, these products are used in conjuction with one another both as a base stain and finishing coats.
Dec
Dec
TheDec had a look at the two products, i take it you have used this combination before and you were pleased with the results.
So i would put on one coat of Cetol HLS Plus followed by one coat of Cetol THB Plus, would i need to sand down lightly between coats if so what grade of paper would you recommend?
I will have more photos of the door tomorrow as i have spent more time sanding it down.
You can all tell me what you think of it.
So i would put on one coat of Cetol HLS Plus followed by one coat of Cetol THB Plus, would i need to sand down lightly between coats if so what grade of paper would you recommend?
I will have more photos of the door tomorrow as i have spent more time sanding it down.
You can all tell me what you think of it.
When all traces of the existing coating have been removed working only with the grain sand down using 120 grit, when you are satisfied with your work dust off and again working with the grain apply one coat of Cetol HLS leave for at least 16 hrs. Very very lightly sand with no less that 320 grit, dust off and apply one coat of Cetol THB and again allow 16 hrs then apply a second coat. Sikkens products produce the highest of trancslucent finishes thus promoting the grain to be only enhanced and not hidden. This is why it is off the utmost importance that all traces of the existing product are removed.
Dec
Dec
looking nice
you can use a vacuum cleaner and brush to remove most dust especially out of crevices
wipe with a lint-free cloth slightly moistened with white spirit, which will also remove any dirty fingerprints or skin oil
Don't use water as it will raise the grain and you would have to resand ultra-fine (some people do this deliberately for a glass-smooth surface)
btw The Dec, why don't you like Colron? I find on hardwood it emphasises the grain and colour, as long as you don't use one that's too dark.
you can use a vacuum cleaner and brush to remove most dust especially out of crevices
wipe with a lint-free cloth slightly moistened with white spirit, which will also remove any dirty fingerprints or skin oil
Don't use water as it will raise the grain and you would have to resand ultra-fine (some people do this deliberately for a glass-smooth surface)
btw The Dec, why don't you like Colron? I find on hardwood it emphasises the grain and colour, as long as you don't use one that's too dark.
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