I have a double mains socket above the hob. It’s about 2 feet above the hob and on the right hand side of it. Is this acceptable?
mains sockets Above Hob
- Thread starter SALL2009
- Start date
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I take the view that steam and vapour from the saucepans used on the hob will contaminate the socket.
I'd take the few that any appliance (which would need a long lead 600mm++) could have issue with the lead hanging within the heat zone of the hob plate/
Damp or oily sockets, or melting live appliance cables are not a good thing.
Someone will mention extraction and I'd assume that you have a hood over the hob, but can you guarantee every time the hob is used that the extractor will be on?
Simple fix is removing the socket, joining the cable cores and cover with a blanking plate.
300mm to the side is generally accepted as ok, as for height above that's more dictated by the enviroment in the area
I'd take the few that any appliance (which would need a long lead 600mm++) could have issue with the lead hanging within the heat zone of the hob plate/
Damp or oily sockets, or melting live appliance cables are not a good thing.
Someone will mention extraction and I'd assume that you have a hood over the hob, but can you guarantee every time the hob is used that the extractor will be on?
Simple fix is removing the socket, joining the cable cores and cover with a blanking plate.
300mm to the side is generally accepted as ok, as for height above that's more dictated by the enviroment in the area
It will be used for the extractor hood and the cooker ignition. Other appliances will be plugged in on the other side.
I will take measurements to make sure and post a picture soon. I have finished the wall and really don't want to relocate the socket now.
I will take measurements to make sure and post a picture soon. I have finished the wall and really don't want to relocate the socket now.
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Why not convert to a duel plate back box and then provide a fused spur for each 'fixed' appliance.
The issues of leads hanging down, and sockets with means to vapour ingress are completely avoided. It will also mean the job looks tidy.
As for your "I've finished with the wall" statement, I don't think that's an exceptable remark. You should have thought about the fixed appliances and the correct method of connection and isolation before you tiled / decorated the wall.
So do you mean, channelling the cables for cooker and the hood in the wall?
Do you know how the socket cable is routed?
It would be an ideal location for the extraction hood, but not for the ignition for gas hob.
it would be much better if the socket outlet was used only for the hood and a feed taken to the hob at a lower level below worktop. It would be handy to have a means of isolation above the worktop for these appliances. But unfortunatelty you have finished the wall, so unless you can take a feed from elsewhere for the hob and consider using the double socket only for the use of the hood/extractor, you will need to remove tiles and chase out for cables.
It would be an ideal location for the extraction hood, but not for the ignition for gas hob.
it would be much better if the socket outlet was used only for the hood and a feed taken to the hob at a lower level below worktop. It would be handy to have a means of isolation above the worktop for these appliances. But unfortunatelty you have finished the wall, so unless you can take a feed from elsewhere for the hob and consider using the double socket only for the use of the hood/extractor, you will need to remove tiles and chase out for cables.
Here is a picture of the location. So where would it be best to move the sockets? The feed is coming from below.
How about putting some trunking and running the cables for the cooker and hood in the trunking?
If the socket is move a bit more to the right would that be ok?
How about putting some trunking and running the cables for the cooker and hood in the trunking?
If the socket is move a bit more to the right would that be ok?
Some distance away.
No - trunking is not fireproof
No, as the flex would still be far too close to the hob.
You should get rid of the socket altogether, put a couple of switched FCUs on the tiled wall to the left of the cooker, at least 300mm away, with the load cables chased into the wall vertically upwards to a flex outlet for the cooker hood and vertically downwards to a flex outlet for the cooker ignition.
Also, you should read these:
art-p
To fail to plan is to plan to fail.
You are gonna have to move that socket and
You are gonna have to redo the wall.
TBF - as long as he provides alternative arrangements to power the cooker and hood he could just replace the socket front with a blanking plate and not have to re-do that wall.
You could consider making socket obsolete, change it to switched FCU and down fuse.
Then you could chase out in horizontal line from this plate to internal corner, then route your cable up the internal corner to suitable distance, then horizontal again above the cooker to offer a feed for your extractor.
This is a permitted safe zone and will not effect your tiles, so you will only need to re-plaster the chase and prime and paint it.
If the feed is coming from below for this socket, it would also be possible to arrange a feed for the hob ignition, below the worktop height. It could be positioned in the cupboard next to the cooker, which if correctly done would give you an isolation point, not in the best of spots, but nevertheless a point of isolation and again not having to remove any tiles but may have to do some chasing out.
Then you could chase out in horizontal line from this plate to internal corner, then route your cable up the internal corner to suitable distance, then horizontal again above the cooker to offer a feed for your extractor.
This is a permitted safe zone and will not effect your tiles, so you will only need to re-plaster the chase and prime and paint it.
If the feed is coming from below for this socket, it would also be possible to arrange a feed for the hob ignition, below the worktop height. It could be positioned in the cupboard next to the cooker, which if correctly done would give you an isolation point, not in the best of spots, but nevertheless a point of isolation and again not having to remove any tiles but may have to do some chasing out.
Regardless of the socket issue, that hob/cooker can't be put there anyway.
It is far too close to the side wall.
When pans are put on the right hand side burners, where will the handles go?
It is far too close to the side wall.
When pans are put on the right hand side burners, where will the handles go?
Is there regulation regarding the minimum distance between hob and side wall?
I think that distance between hob and splash wall is a minimum of 55mm and i'm sure I have seen some manufacturers instruction stating a minimum of 100mm from a side wall. But can't say for sure that it is a regulation/guideline or applies only to that particular appliance regarding the MI.
I thought the pan handle regulation was a myth, don't me wrong logical sense but a myth.
I think that distance between hob and splash wall is a minimum of 55mm and i'm sure I have seen some manufacturers instruction stating a minimum of 100mm from a side wall. But can't say for sure that it is a regulation/guideline or applies only to that particular appliance regarding the MI.
I thought the pan handle regulation was a myth, don't me wrong logical sense but a myth.
Ok, I have another idea. Is there any issue with having the socket cable running and being clipped on the surface of the wall? Obviously I will chase the cable while it is above the cooker level. But once it is below cooker level. Could it be routed above the wall to the tiled wall and then behind the cooker and then come up from behind the worktop.
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