Making cupboards which light up when the door opens

[d000hg]

Further to a recent post about LED strip/tape lighting, I am looking to fit these in 10 recessed cupboards used for display/storage. I could just tie them to a single switch when I'm using the room but it seems wasteful as the doors are not glass or anything.

In this low-voltage setup what is the part(s) I need to make it light up only when the door is open? Some kind of reverse switch or optical/magnetic sensor? Looking for something cheap and simple.

I know you can buy motion-sensing lights for this kind of purpose but I prefer the cupboard to stay lit while the door is open, not just when I am actually using it. Mainly for cosmetic reasons rather than practical.

In the old days you'd have gone to the high street to the electrical shop but these days I guess I need to know what I want, and then find it online.

 

[chivers67]

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=cupboard+switch&Submit=Search any good for you?

 

[bernardgreen]

https://www.toolstation.com/white-flat-plate-mortice-door-switch/p52171

 

[d000hg]

Look like they'd work great. Probably vastly over-specced given I'd expect about 2-3W at 12/24V?

I was imagining something more like this, and having fun wiring it all up... found this once I knew what to search for on image search. Worth it?

 

[d000hg]

It's actually storage in my workshop, so a bit more 'rough' is OK.

 

[JohnW2]

Look like they'd work great. Probably vastly over-specced given I'd expect about 2-3W at 12/24V? ... I was imagining something more like this, and having fun wiring it all up... found this once I knew what to search for on image search. Worth it?

Although the LED strip itself undoubtedly draws very little power at a relatively low voltage, if one switches that ELV that would mean that (assuming it was 'mains powered') the power supply/whatever that was feeding the strip would be permanently powered, which is not such a good idea, for a number of reasons. It would be preferable to switch the 230V feed to the power supply (for which a switch such as you have illustrated would not be suitable).

Kind Regards, John

 

[bernardgreen]

onething to note is that the plunger of the switch puts pressure on the closed door that tries to open the door. If the door only has a weak magnetic or waek ball catch to keep it closed then the pressure from the switch may enough to open the door,

 

[bernardgreen]

found this once I knew what to search for on image search. Worth it?

It needs to be a switch that opens when pressed, unlike a door bell push which closes when pressed.

 

[JohnW2]

It's actually storage in my workshop, so a bit more 'rough' is OK.

Are the cupboard doors likely to be left open for appreciable periods of time, or only opened occasionally, 'as required'? If the latter, then battery-powered LED lights (which could be switched with extra-low-voltage switches) might be worth considering as a means of avoiding the need for any mains wiring - and, with only occasional use, the batteries would probably last months or years.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

It needs to be a switch that opens when pressed, unlike a door bell push which closes when pressed.

As you know, switches such as the OP 'found' are available in both push-to-make and push-to break-variants (although, as already noted, ones such as illustrated are only suitable for extra-low-voltage).

Kind Regards, John

 

[bernardgreen]

then battery-powered LED lights

a good suggestion. The battery can be float charged from a constant voltage charger.

As you know, switches such as the OP 'found' are available i

But are often confused when the description is not clearly written.

 

[d000hg]

Although the LED strip itself undoubtedly draws very little power at a relatively low voltage, if one switches that ELV that would mean that (assuming it was 'mains powered') the power supply/whatever that was feeding the strip would be permanently powered, which is not such a good idea, for a number of reasons. It would be preferable to switch the 230V feed to the power supply (for which a switch such as you have illustrated would not be suitable).

Kind Regards, John

Good point. I would definitely plan to have a main switch for the installation, and/or for the thing to be wired into the lighting circuit for the room so that it is only ever live when the room is in use.

Are the cupboard doors likely to be left open for appreciable periods of time, or only opened occasionally, 'as required'? If the latter, then battery-powered LED lights (which could be switched with extra-low-voltage switches) might be worth considering as a means of avoiding the need for any mains wiring - and, with only occasional use, the batteries would probably last months or years.

Kind Regards, John

Good question. I would say sporadically but for moderate periods e.g. one day a week I might be using them a few hours but not in between.

I had initially considered battery-powered motion-detecting strips - they are charged by USB and hold a long charge but are sealed units. They have an override on/off switch so I definitely could use them but it would be far less elegant.

Can you give me any examples of the sort of thing you're talking about? Pre-made units, or actually buying some LEDs and some batteries and making something like a school project? Because that's sort of what I was picturing, but just using mains for convenience (I already have a cable installed for this very purpose).

I suppose I wouldn't be very keen having 10x batteries to keep charged, but I could still have them all linked to a single battery. Even something like a small car battery, not sure if you were thinking that sort of route or modern Li-ion/USB charging?

 

[Brigade77]

I've used a lot of these & the batteries seem to last

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/stoett...rip-w-sensor-battery-operated-white-10360087/

 

[JohnW2]

a good suggestion. The battery can be float charged from a constant voltage charger.

True, but one is then left with the question of whether one wants to have a charger constantly powered.

I have battery-operated LEDs in various cupboards, and on stairs, in shed/garages etc. etc. (those mainly PIR-operated) and, although most have just 2 or 3 (not rechargeable) AA or AAA batteries, with my usage those batteries usually last for months, in some cases for a year or three.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

I suppose I wouldn't be very keen having 10x batteries to keep charged, but I could still have them all linked to a single battery. Even something like a small car battery, not sure if you were thinking that sort of route or modern Li-ion/USB charging?

As I've written, in terms of the modest amount of my personal usage, I'm mainly talking about non-rechargeable batteries. However, one could obviously use rechargeable ones is one wanted/needed.

Kind Regards, John