Matching decorative bathroom cladding

[adamr7747]

Hi All,

I need to match some existing decorative cladding but I've been searching for weeks and can't find anything similar. Pine or MDF, profiled or jointed, would all be fine. Anyone have any ideas where I could get it or how I could make it? The grooves are shaped like: ___/u\___. See pic too, with toilet role for scale! The pattern repeats every 43mm.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[foxhole]

This type of thing?

https://www.buildersmerchant.com/pr...MIrdz7pbXg7wIVYoFQBh108w3hEAQYBCABEgLsLfD_BwE

https://www.homebase.co.uk/easipane...7_1617396098_a861102117ea7a7b67c11f18b1cc5a21

 

[adamr7747]

Yes, that type of thing. But I can't see any information on those pages about the width of the sections & every example I have found is bigger - about 90mm seems standard and that's what those look like, as far as I can tell from the photos

Adam

 

[adamr7747]

Anyone got any ideas? What tools would be used to machine a groove like that from scratch?

 

[foxhole]

Anyone got any ideas? What tools would be used to machine a groove like that from scratch?

Router

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Anyone got any ideas? What tools would be used to machine a groove like that from scratch?

You can get near, but not identical by making two passes with a router, appropriate cutter and a batten to guide the router. The router cutter to maybe look at is a Wealden Tool T161 panel bead cutter. This is used to make a single cut with the router running against the batten (the batten needs to be screwed or clamped in place. The batten is then moved 4mm across, reclamped, and a second pass made, creating the bead. The batten is then moved across by the width of the faux plank (say 39mm) and the exercise is repeated for the full width of the board. It is a tedious task requiring very high accuracy and concentration

 

[adamr7747]

Router

I've never used a router so am struggling to picture how that would work. I can see how to make the curved (purple) and the straight (green) profiles separately, but how would it be possible to put them together to make the overall shape?

(The lower section of the pic is my sketch of the cross-section of the cladding. The upper bits show what I think would be possible router bits.)

Thanks,
Adam

 

[adamr7747]

The router cutter to maybe look at is a Wealden Tool T161 panel bead cutter. This is used to make a single cut with the router running against the batten (the batten needs to be screwed or clamped in place.

Thanks, looks like my purple option - I guess I might just have to accept it's not identical - but how did they make the original?
[edit, after more googling]
Ah, OK, I can't find a diagram of that bit but maybe it's "sideways" bits I need, thanks. (I'll do some more digging, but am now wondering how to get the router close enough to the piece for that to work...)

Adam

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I've never used a router so am struggling to picture how that would work. I can see how to make the curved (purple) and the straight (green) profiles separately, but how would it be possible to put them together to make the overall shape?

Put simply, you cannot. What I was offering was a compromise that would allow you to get a near match. In the real world these panels are often manufactured on very wide thicknessers fitted with every wide bespoke cutter head - your sideways bits, which on a 36in to 48in thicknesser would possibly be several thousand pounds worth of tooling - so having a bespoke knife set made for one of these machines isn't that feasible. The alternative I am aware of is a CNC router with an aggregate head and a bespoke cutter. Fancy paying £50 to £100 per hour (or part thereof) for the programming and run time as well as maybe £150 for the cutter set?

Portable routers don't work on their sides (save possibly processing edge lipping only 20mm deep or so) - they really only work vertically, do trying to find what you want will inevitably result in your needing to actually build a one off tool. As you have zero experience of routing I consider that to a complete non-starter. Hence the previous suggestion

 

[opps]

Try a local woodworking mill.

I use W Hanson in west London.

However, if they don't have the cutters in stock and they need to get them made up it becomes prohibitively expensive for small runs (cost per metre).

Have you considered removing the old mouldings and starting from scratch?

 

[adamr7747]

Have you considered removing the old mouldings and starting from scratch?

Yes, but the cladding goes all round the room, behind the sink & toilet & is used to make a built-in storage unit so it would basically be an entire bathroom refit Looks like I might be running out of options... though I'll try a local mill (I've used Timbersource in Somerset before).

Adam