MCB rating too high?

m0t

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I had my house rewired last year and had a circuit put in to power a 10kw shower unit. We actually decided not to install an electric shower and the location of the switch is perfect for powering some other appliances (its in a cupboard outside the room).

The MCB is 40a, do I need to get this replaced with a lower rater one?
 
The 40A MCB is there to protect the cable, which I assume is 10mm² ?

If so the 40A MCB is OK, providing it just goes to one socket. The wiring would need to be 10mm throughout, if you are planning on more than one socket, and that is not physically practical as you wont be able to cram more than one 10mm conductor into the back of a socket.
 
Another option is to stick a small CU on the end of the 10mm run and fit breakers there to suit what it is powering.
 
The cable is 10mm2.

I will get a fused spur added, this should mean I am ok to plug in my tumble dryer?
 
Yes, but bear in mind that the FCU will limit the circuit to a maximum of 13amps in total. Your tumble may be nearly that on its own.
 
Yes, but bear in mind that the FCU will limit the circuit to a maximum of 13amps in total. Your tumble may be nearly that on its own.

The circuit will only be powering the tumble dryer - no other space in the cupboard for anything else.
 
The circuit will only be powering the tumble dryer - no other space in the cupboard for anything else.
Make sure there is adequate ventilation around the tumble drier, follow the manufacturer's instructions as the minimum, more is better. They get hot and have been known to cause fires ( mainly when the lint filter in clogged and the machine over heats )
 
Also consider 'servicing' it one a year... take the removable panels off and hoover out the fluff.

Perhaps dont do this if its a hotpoint aquarious model as you might never get it back together again :evil:
 
They get hot and have been known to cause fires ( mainly when the lint filter in clogged and the machine over heats )
We clean the lint out of the filter in ours every use.

Never tried it, but apparently it's good to use in home made paper.

Or put some outside during the nest-building season.
 
I replaced the shower switch with a 13amp fused connection unit. The 10mm multistranded cable fitted in the terminals (just) and I got it all working.

I came back a couple of hours later (the dryer hadn't been on) and I went to turn the switch off and the faceplate had got quite warm. I checked the connections and they were all secure and the cables weren't warm.

The heat was concentrated in a corner of the faceplate away from the fuse, there was nothing marking the cables, sheaths or terminals.

What's causing this, faulty faceplate? Tightness of the cable fitting?
 
I replaced the shower switch with a 13amp fused connection unit. The 10mm multistranded cable fitted in the terminals (just) and I got it all working.

I came back a couple of hours later (the dryer hadn't been on) and I went to turn the switch off and the faceplate had got quite warm. I checked the connections and they were all secure and the cables weren't warm.

The heat was concentrated in a corner of the faceplate away from the fuse, there was nothing marking the cables, sheaths or terminals.

What's causing this, faulty faceplate? Tightness of the cable fitting?

If there was no load on the cable, there should not be any heat dissipated by the electrical circuit. Had you had the dryer on for a lengthy period prior to this?
 
It hadn't been on but it was turned on with the lights on.

I purchased an MK unit today because I was concerned that the one I bought online had an issue (heat wasn't coming out of the connectors or cables, it seemed to be coming out of a section covered in plastic).

The MK unit seemed better designed (especially with the connector locations) and more sturdy. I have connected it up and thus far it isn't getting warm at all.
 

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