Miele electronic freezer

[Baker Steve]

Sadly, no - the lower surface is featureless aside from the blanks for the alternate door opening hinge points.

The only thing I can see that might give access is a tiny prize point to the left of the trim panel that covers the controls, but I'm loath to apply force to that.

 

[Baker Steve]

Update: on the F-7462 there are two blanking plugs at the outer ends of the plastic moulding above the door. Beneath these are a couple of Torx screws. Removing the one adjacent to the door hinge is tricky, but possible. Once these are removed the whole top section comes off on flying leads with both boards (display and PSU) within it. Leads are secured with clips that are part of the sockets and easily breakable (I broke one). On this board/model the dropper capacitor for the relay is 0.1 uF/300V. Have replaced it and will report back if fault fixed.

 

[Baker Steve]

Sadly it was not, although it was worth a try and only cost me 29p for the capacitor.

All I can say for sure now is that the compressor and fluids are fine (-35C anyone?). As it could be the compressor relay (£??), the whole PSU board (£110), the whole electronics board (£150), or more than one of these, I eventually decided to call out an engineer (£140): this is a £900 freezer that I was given, so worth repairing. I will report back on what the fault actually was. Or, at least, where.

 

[jackg]

In January 2016 I got a F7131S on freecycle, the compressor worked but there were no panel lights.
The panel had three resistors which had rust on them and a hole in the PCB where one resistor wire went soldered onto the PCB.
They are located close to the power-in socket.
I removed the resistors and checked them, they were no good so I replaced them, 10ohms, 10ohms, and 47K.
On reassembly there were no panel lights, so I checked my work and part of the track had been blown where one resistor soldered in so I drilled a couple of new holes in the track and resoldered it.
On reassembly the panel light all came on ok.
The freezer seemed to work ok. Took a while going from -15 to -18.

Today the panel lights were flashing, so I turned the power off and removed the panel. I checked the resistors I had fitted and they seemed ok allowing for the fact they were on the PCB.
I reconnected the panel with a view to measuring voltages across the relay and the relay capacitor.
The freezer now seems to work ok, the lights are normal, a temperature light on -15.
The door seal is not great but it passes the £5 note test.

This maybe a standard defrost warning or it maybe something else?

Any ideas folks.

 

[beano1939]

Since I started this discussion in 2008, perhaps I may be permitted to add the latest experience with my freezer Miele f7131s.
It was over-cooling and repaired [not by me] in 2009. Now the same fault has recurred, namely that the compressor runs all the time dropping the temperature to -32. Following the advice on this thread, I have replaced the relay control capacitor with a 0.47uF 275v type X2 and also repaired a couple of dry joints. All working correctly again, [ holding at -18 ] hopefully for another 7/8 years. This repair cost less than £2 and is not at all difficult, but do remember to unplug from the supply first.
Incidentally, the complete circuit board is available from Germany. Several sources are listed on the popular auction site . Search for 'Liebherr 6113632' . Cost is around £50 and the listings show the many appliances in which this part is used.

 

[Kittymott]

Help please someone. I'm not a techie! Don't know a capacitor from a kidney bean. My husband is 77 and has given up on life.

My Miele chest freezer...Electronic...is currently sitting at -36. I see from the above posts that there may have been similar problems for others. I have lifted the lid and yes there are two screws.....there is a local Maplin and I can use a soldering iron.

In graphic detail, can someone tell me what I am looking for and what I need to buy. I usually do any repairs using a YouTube video but can't find one.

Hopefully..........

 

[jackg]

The freezer under discussion is a under counter freezer and not a chest freezer.
You need to identify your freezer from the manufacturing plate: model number, serial number and any other data.
The age of it helps as well.
Try Miele and or a local domestic appliance repairer when you have the data above.
To repair a PCB you need to identify electronic components: capacitors and resistors.

 

[Kittymott]

In desperation I removed the panel below the handle. Eeek! Put it back, mattered a prayer and whacked the handle with a hammer....-23!!!!

 

[yardie]

in the good 'ol days, tv repair men used to whack the back of tv sets to diagnose dry joint issues, maybe thats your problem, or possibly a sticking relay or wiring issue!

if the problem re-occurs and whacking it does not work start your own thread with make and model, detail the exact problem and remember to note whacking it fixed the problem last time.

I know its not professional but at least you got it going again, sounds very much like the sort of thing my nan used to do! bless her!

 

[joe0675]

My F7131S started acting up after 22 years. It wouldn't hold temperature going from one end of the scale to the other and back again.
Found this thread and changed the 0.47uF Capacitor for a new one and it's all working fine again.
Thanks for the tip!