1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Mira Excel built in shower valve, room for inlet pipes

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by DaveyH, 29 Jun 2014.

  1. DaveyH

    DaveyH

    Joined:
    21 Feb 2009
    Messages:
    153
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Location:
    Cleveland
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi,

    I'm in the process of fitting our Mira Excel Built in shower valve.

    I've chased our plaster/brick wall in accordance with the installation instructions, ie 58mm deep, 145mm high, 245mm wide, here is a picture (I haven't chased the outlet pipe yet, which will be going upwards)


    Here is a picture of the valve in the hole.


    I've also made a couple of mock-up 90° elbows for the inlet pipes. However, I can only insert the pipes into with the valve while the valve is outside of the hole. If I put the valve into the hole first, there simply isn't enough room on either side to insert the pipes. Is this normal?


    As I see it, I've got 3 options

    1. Hope I never need to remove the entire valve for maintenance or replacement at some point in the future.
    2. Widen the hole about an extra 7mm on each side.
    3. Use a 90° street elbow with an olive fitting on it, so that my 90° bends are much tighter, like one ones shown in Mira's installation instructions, here is their picture.


    However putting olives on street elbows seems to be frowned upon by many on here (see http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132554&start=0).

    So what would you do?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Jackrae

    Jackrae

    Joined:
    20 Nov 2012
    Messages:
    2,240
    Thanks Received:
    377
    Location:
    Dumfriesshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    The rear body of the valve stays in position if the valve ever needs servicing. You remove the inards only via the four screws on the front of the body. So, assemble the pipework then fix the lot into the recess confident that it'll never have to come out (fingers crossed)
     
  3. Sponsored Links
  4. Norcon

    Norcon

    Joined:
    17 May 2008
    Messages:
    8,417
    Thanks Received:
    357
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Might be a good idea to apply some Laco slic tite.
    Which is good to go on liquid pressures of 680 bar.

    Especially if your not pressure testing.
    I think access to the compression nuts is fairly restricted after the building shroud is removed as far as I can remember. Though a slim line spanner might access them.

    You need balanced pressures for this valve also as cross flows can occur. The combination valve on the unvented cylinder will have an extra port for this purpose.
     
  5. slapper

    slapper

    Joined:
    20 Jan 2008
    Messages:
    1,860
    Thanks Received:
    481
    Location:
    Lincolnshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Also wrap some protection tape around your pipes to prevent corrosion
     
  6. Sponsored Links
  7. DaveyH

    DaveyH

    Joined:
    21 Feb 2009
    Messages:
    153
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Location:
    Cleveland
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks for all of the replies.

    Never heard of this stuff before, does it go on the compression nut threads or olives or both?


    Not sure if this applies to us. As our boiler is a combi boiler. So hot and cold will (in theory) have the same pressure and there isn't cylinder.

    Thanks
     
  8. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
Loading...

Share This Page