Mist vs Bullseye 123

[ChilliBob]

Hey guys,

I intend to paint my new bathroom ceiling in perma white matt, which I have already purchased and used before.

It's just been freshly plastered, I'm unsure whether I should:

A. Do a conventional mist coat of white emulsion paint, then two coats of perma white.

B. Use Bullseye 123, which I also have. I've never used it on bare plaster before though, so I'm quite uncertain if it's the right choice, and if I should water it down.

Anyone got any experience of Bullseye 123 on new plaster? Seems what zinsser recommended in their perma white data sheet... I'm hesitant though!

 

[Wayners]

Id use acrylic primer undercoat.
Never used BS123 over new plaster myself. I guess it will be fine though. I know people that have used it but never seen the results. They say its fine

 

[opps]

I have never used 123, nor have I used PermaWhite matt- looking at the Zinsser website, it seems to be eggshell rather than matt?

"Perma-White® Interior Matt Paint - Recommended for application in high-humidity areas where a durable, low sheen finish is desired such as finished basements and kitchens. (This finish was previously known as Eggshell.)"

Personally, I just use Dulux trade water based eggshell on ceilings in areas with high humidity. I have never seen penetrating mold on a ceiling that I have painted with eggshell. I have however seen yellow droplets of water form on ceilings that have really poor ventilation. Any residual stains can be wiped away.

 

[Wayners]

Matt is around 5% sheen depending for a durable.
Eggshell is 10%
Satin is 30%
Perma is around the 7% I guess? Might say in data sheet. Depends on light but most durable paints have sheen.
It will do the job but surface will not need to be dry with suction. Paints needs to hang a bit so it levels

 

[ChilliBob]

It does leave a good finish for sure, used in my en-suite quite recently and in an old bathroom. I used Dulux diamond eggshell on the wall in the a suite (half height tiled), the finish isn't as good as the perma white and for sure a higher sheen.

Why would you use acrylic primer rather than mist or 123 Wayners? (especially since I have both of the others but not the acrylic primer!)

 

[Wayners]

Mist coat with contract emulsion?

Too dry. No sealing. Just a blinder to kill the plaster colour.

BS123 or acrylic primer with seal allowing the perma white to hang and level

 

[ChilliBob]

Interesting, I thought it was to draw the moisture our from the plaster, then the top coats would stick to the mist coat. Do you avoid the common mist coat method everywhere then Wayners? I thought that was sort of established 101 over new plaster!

 

[ChilliBob]

The instructions state:

Before applying Perma-White® to bare plaster it must first be sealed with a primer e.g. Bulls Eye® 1-2-3.

I've read some other replies you've made on this where you say the top coat matters - so read the guidance - so, if I'm going for 'primer' in this sense I guess it's acrylic primer since perma white is water based.

Will any do, or are there specific brands to go for/avoid? I have no further use for it, so ideally a small cheapish tin!

 

[Wayners]

If you have BS123 then use that. Follow the spec.

 

[ChilliBob]

Cheers Wayners, in tempted to since it's the same paint system. Zinsser have just got back to me as I type this actually.. A very helpful response...

Option A: Gardz followed by 123, then perma white.

Option B. 123 10% dilution, 123 as is, then perma white.

Pretty impressed with that detailed response and attching of the data sheets too.

 

[Wayners]

I'd go with B

 

[ChilliBob]

Yep, me too, especially with nearly two tins of 123 at my disposal!

 

[ChilliBob]

Well, I've completed this now... And horror of horrors it's not good news

The 10% diluted coat went on well, soaking in, drying as I went etc. Another coat at full strength the day later, then two coats of perma white.

Just taken the masking tape off the spot lights and peeled some paint off in the process, which has gone right back to bare plaster, as if nothing was ever on the plaster. At the moment, about the size of a pound coin.

With the rest of the bathroom looking amazing there's no chance I could strip it all off and repeat the process again - my wife and son (desperately wants a bath again!) would probably give me coal for Christmas or something.

I'm thinking I should cut round the lights and panint with a scalpel to make sure there is no more 'connection' (there defo is in some places)....

Pull them down a bit then use some Tourpret to sort of fill and join the paint skin again. Sand the Tourpret, then 123, then perma white twice...

Thankfully it's not the spot over the bath or shower but over the toilet.

I also have peel stop at my disposal, and Gardz. Not sure if either on the bare plaster before filling will help.

Thoughts much appreciated, right now I feel well fed up having followed the guidelines from the manufacturer to the letter and spent most of the weekend on it

 

[Wayners]

Pull masking when paint is wet or it can cause pealing.
Means you many need to repeat the masking each day.
Re spotlights
Some use tin foil to cover but that's more for spraying.
Maybe these would of worked for you

Spot Drops

Spot Drops

www.spotdrops.co.uk

 

[ChilliBob]

Yep, poxy masking tape. Plumbers said to pull the lights down and put in a sandwich bag, but I pulled a bit and met a fair amount of resistance, so didn't want to mess up the perfect holes in the new lid!

I think I'll have to pull a bit, then use Gardz on a trimmed out area, thin skim of Tourpret when dry, prime, top coat twice.

What a ball ache

The irony being in the bedroom I pulled of the masking tape when still wet.

I have kitchen to do next year with 20 spots thou so I'll look into the link, cheers man