MK 32amp DP switch

[EFLImpudence]

You can still get white ones.

 

[ldoodle]

Contactum?

The thanks was more of a 'like', to your comment about it being ugly.

I wouldn't have that even if I was blind. What's wrong with manufacturers; fair enough have the little red strip at the top of the rocker, but that's just ridiculous.

 

[ldoodle]

PS: Did we cover off the fact that a 32amp cooker switch is/is not OK with a 32amp MCB?



It might sound like a silly question, but a 30cm diameter hole can't find inside a 30cm diameter hole, can it. Basically, I was just wondering if you should actually use a switch rated exactly the same as the MCB (so it's at 100% 'capacity' if the load was actually 32amp), or if you should allow some headroom? I.e. go up to the next one, 45amp.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Of course you can.

I don't think you can fit any sized hole in another hole but you can get a gallon of anything in a gallon container.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Just thought -

Once you take a 30cm. diameter hole out of whatever it was in it gets a lot bigger.

That's probably why it won't fit.

 

[JohnW2]

PS: Did we cover off the fact that a 32amp cooker switch is/is not OK with a 32amp MCB? It might sound like a silly question, but a 30cm diameter hole can't find inside a 30cm diameter hole, can it. Basically, I was just wondering if you should actually use a switch rated exactly the same as the MCB (so it's at 100% 'capacity' if the load was actually 32amp), or if you should allow some headroom? I.e. go up to the next one, 45amp.

I think that one is quite easy. By analogy with cables, I would personally say that it is fine to have a 32A switch protected by a 32A MCB. Yes, a 32A MCB will allow considerably more than 32A to flow for a while (and 36A or so to flow indefinitely), but one expects/hopes 'headroom' to cover that to be built into the "32A" rating of the switch. Let's face it, a 32A switch is not going to burst into flames if 32.1A, or even 36A, flows through it.

Anyway, don't forget that if the only load on the switch is something, like an oven' which 'cannot create an overload', then the switch only really has to be rated for to be able to carry the actual current of the load. Under 'fault' (as opposed to overload) conditions (i.e. when there is an L-N or L-E short), the current is going to be 'hundreds of amps' (for a very brief period until the MCB operates), so it makes no difference whether the switch is 'rated' at 32A, 45A or 100A!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What's wrong with manufacturers; fair enough have the little red strip at the top of the rocker, but that's just ridiculous.

I agree.

Some of them think that even the socket switch needs to be red.

Or orange

 

[AndyPRK]

What's wrong with a nice legrand one as mentioned below?

Single gang. 45A. Fits in well next to MK FCU's (better than an MK 32A anyway). Its even got a white switch.

What more could you want ?

Legrand do a 45a switch without neon
Which looks better and no doubt has a smooth action.

This was what I was thinking of.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/legrand-S...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item4ad8262ab0

Also available with a red switch and marked cooker

 

[ldoodle]

What's wrong with a nice legrand one as mentioned below?

Single gang. 45A. Fits in well next to MK FCU's (better than an MK 32A anyway). Its even got a white switch.

What more could you want ?

Sorry, got lost in conversation. Nothing wrong with it.

Thanks