Motorised valves return voltage

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by slangivar, 23 Dec 2010.

  1. slangivar

    slangivar

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    I have an S-plan heating system in which the 2 motorised valves are failing to switch the boiler on. They are both returning about 40 volts when switched on.

    Currently my heating system is set up to always have hot water on when heating is on but I would like to fix it so that they can both be switched independently.

    Any help would be appreciated, even if it is just to confirm that the valves were probably from a "bad batch".
     
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  3. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    What do you mean by "returning about 40 volts" Where are you measuring?Are they spring return valves?
     
  4. slapper

    slapper

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    :eek: :eek: :LOL: One born every minute,probably just done a career course change from Asdas
     
  5. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    And I fell for it.Doh!
     
  6. libby lou lou

    libby lou lou

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    He maybe on a career change, is he touching gas at the moment?

    FFS! can't ask fookall on this diynit site anymore
     
  7. transam

    transam

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    Return voltage ?? do you mean the switch live back to boiler /pump ect ?
     
  8. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    I asked similar question this arvo but OP has ignored all replies......Time waster. :(
     
  9. spraggo

    spraggo

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    Nah, its the voltage that holds the midi valve in mid position. ;) ;) Happy Christmas
     
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  11. slangivar

    slangivar

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    Slapper: Are you talking about yourself? :p or my plumber?

    45yearsagasman: The valves are honeywell and look like this (I think that they are spring return):

    [​IMG]

    I'll use the wiring diagram at http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/0/0d/S-Plan-Wiring.gif to describe what I am experiencing. The only real difference is that my boiler switches the pump and also receives a permanent live. Please excuse me if my terminology is not up to scratch, this is a DIY forum.

    I used terminal 2 for the neutral in all my measurements.

    Measuring the voltage across the zone valves to terminal 10 with heating, hot water or both on gives me the 40 volt measurement I refered to earlier. Measuring the voltage across to terminal 5 or 8 gives the expected mains voltage as does terminal 1.

    I hope that makes more sense and that you are now able to help me.
     
  12. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    They are spring return valves but you should be getting 240v from T10.The only component that may cause a voltage drop is the valves internal micro switch and I've never had that happen to me.Switch faulty on both valves? Long shot.If you have 240v on grey then switch is the only thing I can come up with.Try disconnecting the feed to the boiler from T10 and then measure the voltage from t10 to neutral.This maybe a boiler fault.
     
  13. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    Spraggo,right from the start it has been S Plan.Concentrate :LOL:
     
  14. slangivar

    slangivar

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    Timewaster, no. Just very impressed by the speed you work at. Clearly faster than my fingers can keep up with.

    I think I may have discovered what I overlooked last time and kind of confirms my previous comments about my plumber coming from Asda.

    If the grey live feeds to the valve heads were not wired to live but instead were only connected to each other could this voltage appear as a result of induction in the valve cables?
     
  15. spraggo

    spraggo

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    Hey come on, my statement supposed to be a dumb joke to fall in line with the rest of the nymphes
     
  16. Groovejet

    Groovejet

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    You lot talk alot of ****e sometimes! You Know?
    I just wasted 2mins of my life, reading that rubbish!!!!!!!! :confused: :LOL:
     
  17. 45yearsagasman

    45yearsagasman

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    Groovejet, Who was that aimed at? Please explain :?:
     
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