Move fused spur/socket and bury connection in wall

[ITguydoesDIY]

Hello,

I'm in the process of fitting a new kitchen.

I currently have a switched fused spur above the work surface that is connected to a plug socket down below to power the dishwasher. However, the new fitted dishwasher (Ikea) must go flat against the wall so I need to move the existing socket half a metre to one side and then fill in the old back box so it is flush.

I can't even put a blank cover plate over the old socket as this would cause the dishwasher to stick out slightly from the rest of the fitted cabinets.

Although the cabling is in oval PVC conduit its too tight to pull out the old and replace with one continuous length to the new socket - so I'll have to connect a new length from the old back box.

I understand I can't bury a connection in the wall as the regs say it must be open to inspection. I was going to connect using a [junction] *edit [terminal] block and then cover with a flush cover plate but I can't find a flush cover plate anywhere!!

Has anyone got an idea how I can do this in a way that complies with the regs? Could I solder or crimp the wires together and if so how best to go about this and then protect from plaster when the old back box is filled in?

Great forum this - other posts have already answered many of my questions!

 

[electronicsuk]

Use a flat metal blank plate? Some slimline accessories only protrude by a millimetre or so.

 

[bongos]

I'm a bit confused here! You say you can't use a blanking plate or leave the backbox because there's not room but you say you could fit a junction box in there instead? Or is this because the backbox is surface mounted?

If this is the case then I would suggest sinking a metal backbox and using a flex outlet plate to connect your new dishwasher. Alternatively insert a new backbox further up the wall there it won't be in the way (making note of safe zones). Your dishwasher would be appropriately fused at the FCU above the counter (make sure it is a FCU and not a 20A DP switch).

 

[sparkwright]

Have you tiled or painted the wall yet?
You could replace the cable entirely.

Or make a slim-line blanking plate from PVCu or similar.

 

[ITguydoesDIY]

Sorry used the wrong terminology - meant to say using a terminal block inside the existing back box - which is sunk into the solid plaster wall.

Not sure why I didn't think of a flat metal blank plate - seems so obvious now! Thanks Matthew.

So. . will put a terminal block inside the old back box, earth it and fit a flat metal cover plate. I can score around the back box with a pen knife to fit the plate completely flush.

This should do it:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77437...cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-FLAT BLANK PLATE-_-77437#

Many thanks!!

 

[Steve]

Is the dishwasher supposed to be right up to a wall? I wouldnt think so.

 

[bongos]

I'm still confused. If you put a blanking plate over the old socket then how will you connect the dishwasher?

If you are extending the cable via the backbox then crimping and covering over the existing backbox would be acceptable. There would be no need for a blanking plate then.

If you need to connect the new dishwasher to the existing socket outlet then you will have to use something like this to terminate the cable.

 

[ITguydoesDIY]

Hi Steve, yes it's an Ikea fitted dishwasher - all their units go flush against the wall. The dishwasher hoses connect and run at skirting level and the flex cord comes out at skirting level too.

Hi Bongos - I'm going to sink a new back box half a metre to one side (i.e. not behind the dishwasher) channel out from the old one to the new one and run 2 core and earth between the two in oval PVC conduit. Dishwasher will plug into the new socket or I could use a flex outlet like you suggest.

Am not sure how to go about crimping to connect the cables? I'd also need to protect them from plaster if I were to fill in the old back box. Flat metal blanking plate covering a terminal block in the old back box seems like an easy and safe option Then I can just plaster over the new run of conduit.

 

[electronicsuk]

I'm still confused. If you put a blanking plate over the old socket then how will you connect the dishwasher?

OP is moving the outlet slightly to the side.

If you are extending the cable via the backbox then crimping and covering over the existing backbox would be acceptable. There would be no need for a blanking plate then.

It would be acceptable, but presumably OP does not have ratchet crimp or soldering tools, so being able to use a blanking plate and screw terminals is probably preferable.

 

[sparkwright]

How are you getting the cable from the old socket to the new socket?

Presumably you will bury it into the wall as you are concerned about lack of space behind the dishwasher.

If you are going to dig out the wall you may be able to locate the old cable and re-route it.

Most integrated appliances leave enough room to fit a blanking plate or flex outlet (the latter would need a switched fused spur above the worktop).

 

[ITguydoesDIY]

Hi Sparkwright - yes you'd think there would be enough room for a normal 5mm depth blanking plate but these are Ikea appliances and they don't leave any gap behind them.

If the existing socket was at skirting level that would be ok but its at 45 cm, right behind the new dishwasher so I've got to move it horizontally to the side.

*edit - not sure why I didn't just post this to start with! http://j.imagehost.org/0165/IMG_0323.jpg

Would rather not dig out the existing cable as that would mean patching up new plaster at worktop level rather than down below where the finish doesn't matter.

As it happens I do have a soldering iron - any tips on how to solder the wires and protect them so I could just cover them/the old back box up with plaster?

As you can see I've just got a terminal block in the old backbox at the moment - so flush blank plate would be ok but as it's perminant I'd be just as happy to solder the wires and fill it in if I knew how best to do that.

 

[bongos]

Apologies! Now you've posted the pic it makes sense.

As you've probably gathered, the blanking plate option suggested by Matthew will be fine.