Moving Sockets

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Hi,

In order to fit some cabinet, we need to move some double sockets that are on a ring a couple of feet. What is the recommended method for achieving this is the cable needs to be extended? Should we use Wago connectors?

Thanks
 
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The easy way is the fused connection unit (FCU) or unfused spur, as you need some device to show where cables likely run, i.e. must run in so called safe zones. At some point you will have an EICR and unless maintenance free access is required, so much depends on the design of the cabinet, if once every inspection which for owner occupied is considered as every 10 years the cabinet can be moved for inspection then no real problem, but if like kitchen cabinets it is unlikely to be moved for 20 odd years then looking at other methods.

I have a wall of display cabinets and should the fuse in the FCU rupture I would have to move one to access it, which would not be easy, but since unlikely to rupture not likely to be a problem.
 
Hi,

In order to fit some cabinet, we need to move some double sockets that are on a ring a couple of feet. What is the recommended method for achieving this is the cable needs to be extended? Should we use Wago connectors?

Thanks
Bit more info required really.

Are these free-standing cabinets; or fixed to the wall?

Is this a kitchen?

Can you replace the existing sockets for blank plates, and do your joints there?

Can only offer quesswork at the moment.
 
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Concealed cables normally need to be in "safe zones", some of these are defined by the shape of the walls but others are defined by the presence of accessories. I think most would accept (though i'm not sure it's explicitly stated in the regs) that a box with a visible blanking plate still counts as an accessory but a box that is completely hidden in the building does not. Furthermore if a box is going to be inaccessible then you can't just use generic connectors in a box, the connection needs to be soldered, crimped or made with an approved maintenance free junction box.

Put this together and it's usually not practical to directly replace a socket with a hidden joint, both because of the annoying processes required for hidden joints in general* and because of the problem that existing wiring may no longer be in safe zones once the socket is removed. You could replace it with a blanking plate, but that may or may not solve your original problem.

So there is really no "one size fits all" process for moving sockets. Each set of individual circumstances requires a plan to be made taking account of the reason for moving the socket(s), the requirements on the installation after the work is done and the layout of the wiring.

* In particular note that the "maintenance free" approval applies to the entire junction box product, not to the individual terminals. So wagos or similar in a generic box are not considered maintenance free. None of the maintaince free junction boxes I've seen are designed/intended for embedding in a solid wall.
 

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