Multipoint latching problem when trying to close a door

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The door bangs when I try to close it. It will close if I push/pull it really hard - I mean really hard. And the whole house seems to shudder.

How do I correctly describe what is wrong here? I feel as if "it doesn't shut properly" is a bit vague.

https://imgur.com/a/R6F0fAL

The door was installed 6 months ago. Installer says he never seen this happened before. Says the locking system (the long metal bit on the door) is faulty. Was meant to replace it this week (6+ weeks after problem shown to him), but didn't turn up and instead said supplier sent him the wrong part. :(
 
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Please hold your camera steady, and film the latch next to the handle as you open and close the door. Subsequently, film each of the other latches and bolts.

How did you select your installer, and did you pay him cash? Do you know his address?

If it was installed six months ago, when did it go wrong?
 
Thank you for your response. Here is another video. I hope I have recorded what you requested.

https://imgur.com/a/o65I4JF

The lower lock that partially pops out often happens when our attempts to close the door fail. Quite often it is both top and bottom lock. The locks seem to be cut at and angle such that it should not stop the door closing when the lock is partically out. I have tried to show a close up of this lock here https://imgur.com/a/9FXx3p8

Sorry, I made a mistake about the timelines. It was fuly paid for by credit card in May (deposit) and July 2020 (balance). Installed in July 2020 and we did not have this problem then. We first notified them of this problem in January. Address is known and company is not a one man band. The door is from one of their suppliers.
 
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Where's the centre striker plate for the latch, my AV2 lock has one and shuts with a one finger push, is yours missing or have they fitted the wrong type?
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As Crank says looks like wrong striker plate , so night latch isn't pushing in as door is closed , thus not pulling the two small pegs in . I note the two 'pegs ' have the angled striker plate not the main night latch. Its definetly an issue the installer needs to address ( or rather the supplier , as I guess its come form factory like that? ) . Temporary way to close door to avoid any damage would either use the internal handles and turn the night latch in , or if from outside use the key to achieve the same. I know its not ideal but it will stop it damaging the door and shaking the house!
 
Can't work out whether it's the missing centre latch striker plate or the fact the 2 pegs don't seen to want to ride over their striker plates properly, long shot but wonder if the manufacturer has fitted the wrong handed mechanism in and the bevel on the pegs is on the wrong side, the centre latch says probably not unless they've flipped it around, some mechanisms do have that feature
 
For reference here's a few pics of my AV2 pegs and striker plate for the hooks, mine ride over the plate with minimal effort, let's see close up photos of yours instead of videos of you slamming the door then we might be able to see what the cause is

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you can add a pic by "copy and paste" or by "more options " and "add a file"
Yes this is the same locking system as @crank39 . And yes @ronniecabers the plate in the middle is different to the others. It does not look like the other bits of metal (strike plate?) in other doors as it is flat.

I hope these photos make that clear https://imgur.com/a/5Dn7zlO and @crank39 I have added more close up photos.

Winkhaus show the lock with all 3 plates having a return. See page 3 of https://www.winkhaus.com/en-gb/-/media/files/uk/documents/stv_autolock_av2_heritage_br_042013_uk.pdf

Installer insists this is not the problem. He says the locking systme is faulty, although then says he's never seen this problem before (haha). To be fair to him, the door manufacturer shows doors with a similar strike plate to mine (e.g. different to Winkhaus document).

@ronniecabers as you say that is the only way we can close the door at the moment. Either by turning night latch or using a key from outside.

Installer claims supplier sent wrong bit, and no idea when he will fix this. I suspect the problem is poor installation and changing that part will not make a difference. Although he claims manufacturing falt, he says door manufacturer will not come out due to Covid. However I called door manufacturer and they are visiting client installations for after sales issues.

But in some ways I don't care what the probelm is. It doesn't work. How long do I carry on like this before giving up on him and doing something like FENSA ADR or Section 75 (as it was paid for with credit card).
 
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If you turn the night latch to retract the latch when locking does the door close fully into the frame in that do the 2 pegs ride over the striker plates, just trying to isolate which of the 3 are giving you the problem
 
Hi @crank39 , thank you for your suggestion. I hope I have videoed what you have asked for. I would say that if I retract the latch when shutting the door, the operation is a lot easier. Although, I would not say it is smooth and there is still a bit of a jar when the small top and bottom bits hit their stike plates. It is certainly not as smooth as other doors that we have had in the past with a similar locking mechanism.

(Sorry, it is not entirely obvious in the video when I actually turn the latch. It is after about six bangs that you hear me turn the latch and the door stops banging.)
https://imgur.com/a/WYDgoza

But at the end of the day, regardless of the problem, this happened within 6 months of installation, and installer is giving us the runaround :(
 
Good video, so it appears the centre latch is causing the main problem here in that the incorrect striker plate has been fitted, I would also go as far to say the door needs to be wound over a few mm to the right(lock side), it appears only the very tips of the 2 pegs are contacting the striker plates, also the door doesn't appear to seal against the brush pile draught excluder because of this, I'm guessing the installer wound the door over to the left away from the lock side to help the situation and actually it's made it worse, if the installer won't come back because he's clueless or believes the manufacturer has fitted the wrong/faulty lock then he needs his supplier to send out a service engineer to fix it
 
The door seems markedly different today. The only difference is it is warm and sunny (probably the warmest and sunniest day this year?). Much more smoother.

https://imgur.com/a/oRS5xxQ

Yes @crank39 you are spot on. When we first raised this problem in January (less than 6 months after installation), the installer came out and adjusted the door at the hinge - moving it left towards the hinge exactly as you describe!

Hard to know what to do now - I'm sure the problem will return when it gets cold. If he comes out again, I have no way of verifying he's fixed it. :(
 
Yes the door slab has expanded in the heat and will shrink again when it cools down tonight, unfortunately its the nature of the beast, dark coloured doors even windows are the worst as they absorb more heat, the trick is to find the happy medium with the door position, a good service engineer could do this just through experience, I'm a service engineer - this is bread n butter stuff
 

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