My cistern is running - not sure how to tackle the job (photos inside)

[uptown47]

Hi all,

My toilet is constantly running (not a lot - but it means that every couple of hours the cistern noisily refills which is disturbing us during the night).

There's a front panel which gives me access to the cistern but, I can't get in to the top of the cistern in order to change anything?

The worktop is granite (or quartz - or something similar) so I can't just cut a bit panel out of it). The worktop also looks like it's one big piece behind the sink and with the tiles down on top of it so I can't get it off without wrecking stuff (which obviously I don't want to do).

I wondered if any of the experts on here would have any idea on how to tackle this problem?

The only thing I could think of was isolating the water, disconnecting the cistern from the toilet and the feed, then sawing the front of the cistern open with a hacksaw blade in order to unscrew it from the wall. Then mounting some sort of shelf in order to sit a new cistern on and connect it up? I'm not sure if this is possible though? And I certainly don't want to attempt something like this without speaking to people who know what they're talking about to get some advice (I'm not a plumber).

Anyone got any ideas / advice / suggestions?

Many thanks for any help you can give me.

Cheers

 

[spareshunter]

Bad installation. Cut sealant around the pan and the panel behind should lift up. Remove cistern and replace with either Screwfix Flowmaster or Fluidmaster cistern all bits needed are supplied. Not worth the hassle of repairing when you see the cost of a replacement.

Don't bother with the silly fixing bracket just use four stainless screws and large stainless steel washers. The cable should work in replacement of air hose and round adaptors are available if the hole is too large.

 

[terryplumb]

Your cistern looks as though its at an angle and about to fall off !! Do as spareshunter advised above ,or engage a plumber if you think its outside your skill set.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Good grief, that is an abysmal quality of installation, cistern isn't even level for goodness sakes. New build by any chance?

Cistern has to come out to change internals, (you'll struggle otherwise with that little room for access), cutting the old one up to remove it is only going to leave you with same problem when it comes to fitting a replacement. If you cannot get to the fixing screws at the back, then the top is going to have to come off, I cant see any other option.

 

[uptown47]

Bad installation. Cut sealant around the pan and the panel behind should lift up. Remove cistern and replace with either Screwfix Flowmaster or Fluidmaster cistern all bits needed are supplied. Not worth the hassle of repairing when you see the cost of a replacement.

Don't bother with the silly fixing bracket just use four stainless screws and large stainless steel washers. The cable should work in replacement of air hose and round adaptors are available if the hole is too large.

Hi Spareshunter,

A big thank you for the advice. Can I just clarify a couple of things....

Do you mean to cut this sealant and remove this panel?

And are you talking about something like this as a replacement?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-schwab-duplo-plus-in-wall-toilet-frame-cistern/5161x

Or something like this?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-concealed-cistern-with-pneumatic-dual-flush-valve-6ltr/86993

If neither of those then there's a page with more here:
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=fluidmaster+cistern

Again... a big thank you for all your help and advice - and you're right - it's a really bad installation! I'm planning on getting the bathroom re-done next year but haven't got the cash for it right now hence wanting to just get this issue fixed to see us through.

 

[uptown47]

Good grief, that is an abysmal quality of installation, cistern isn't even level for goodness sakes. New build by any chance?

Actually, no. The house was built in the early 90's. It's just that the previous owner was determined to get rid of what little hair I have left....

Cistern has to come out to change internals, (you'll struggle otherwise with that little room for access), cutting the old one up to remove it is only going to leave you with same problem when it comes to fitting a replacement. If you cannot get to the fixing screws at the back, then the top is going to have to come off, I cant see any other option.

I was thinking if I could replace the cistern I could maybe mount it to some plywood that was wider than the cistern itself. That way I could have the fixing screws located either side of the cistern and still accessible? Not sure if that would work or not - it was just a thought.

Thanks for your help

 

[terryplumb]

Yes cut that sealant and the panel should lift out ( most do but some don't). The fluidmaster code 30168 looks OK ,check the physical dimensions though. If I remember correctly it comes with a mounting bracket that screws to the cabinet back or wall ,and the cistern lifts onto it ,making it easy to lift out again. But I fit brackets below the cistern as well.

 

[spareshunter]

Remove top panel then look down inside at lower panel you should see clips either side usually black. These allow you to slide the panel upwards you will have to remove the sealant as this will hold it in, don't worry its cosmetic and can be replaced. Replacement cistern(s) is Fluidmaster SFix no: 30168 or Flowmaster Sfix no: 1164G. You will find a cut out in the new cistern to allow for fixing with screws/washers as above.

Install a stop valve on the feed to regulate the flow in and test for full overflow if the inlet valve should fail 100% and adjust accordingly. Never had to adjust one yet but check just in case you will see what I mean.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Actually, no. The house was built in the early 90's. It's just that the previous owner was determined to get rid of what little hair I have left....

I was thinking if I could replace the cistern I could maybe mount it to some plywood that was wider than the cistern itself. That way I could have the fixing screws located either side of the cistern and still accessible? Not sure if that would work or not - it was just a thought.

Thanks for your help

Provided you can still get the angle required on the flush pipe, it seems a straightforward idea, why not? Make sure it is firmly secured though, allow about 10kg for the cistern and contents.

 

[spareshunter]

Cistern holds approx 6 litres = 6 KG and the silly plastic clip that is supplied is just that and a pain to fit. How to fix is up to you but you will again see what I mean.

 

[uptown47]

Yes cut that sealant and the panel should lift out ( most do but some don't). The fluidmaster code 30168 looks OK ,check the physical dimensions though. If I remember correctly it comes with a mounting bracket that screws to the cabinet back or wall ,and the cistern lifts onto it ,making it easy to lift out again. But I fit brackets below the cistern as well.

That's great Terry. Thanks for the advice. I've got a list of the dimensions from the Screwfix site so will measure up when I get home and then, all being well, I'll take the plunge and have a crack at it! I'm not confident adjusting the pipework but I'll either have a look on YouTube for advice or get my plumber mate in to do that part. If I can at least get the cistern mounted etc then it will save me a lot of money and save him a lot of time.

Thanks again

 

[uptown47]

Provided you can still get the angle required on the flush pipe, it seems a straightforward idea, why not? Make sure it is firmly secured though, allow about 10kg for the cistern and contents.

Cistern holds approx 6 litres = 6 KG and the silly plastic clip that is supplied is just that and a pain to fit. How to fix is up to you but you will again see what I mean.

Roger that folks! I'll make sure it's very firmly fixed. Thanks for all your help and brilliant ideas on how to sort this. It's very much appreciated